Used .257 Roberts custom/project gun -- bolt will "on its own" jump the keeper slot and put the bolt in the position you'd achieve if disassembling and let it go to 'fire'. I have to pull the bolt out and reset it -- does NOT do this after chambering, just cycling the bolt. Unlike the handy-dandy shoelace trick with Remington bolts (as an example), getting the part with the safety on it pulled back to reset is very troublesome.

a) Is there something likely wrong with the firing pin spring -- weak, wrong one for the chambering (was converted to .257 Rbts from ??? in LA not SA)

b) Am I simply ignorant of how to reset the bolt? Have had success with doing it on CZ/Brno bolts without issue, but they have a prominent spot for the shoelace thing and the Model 70 is sloped.)

I had too hot loads at the beginning, have cleaned the bolt and gun very well since purchase, the magazine spring is too week to stack rounds but I am using a blind follower so that doesn't really matter to me. Not for hunting.

Hope this is enough for the experts to advise. Thanks a bunch!

"keeper slot???" You mean bolt sleeve lock? When you say "let it go to fire" means the firing pin follows or goes forwardc when you close the bolt?

Basically, I think some bubba has "adjusted" things...Take it to a gunsmith that knows his stuff

quote:

.... I think some bubba has "adjusted" things...Take it to a gunsmith that knows his stuff

Listen-up here. Very fixable to a guy that knows what he is doing. Very easy to screw up more if not knowledgeable and experienced.

There's a little locking latch on the LHS of the bolt shroud that looks like a keyhole. This locks the bolt handle when the bolt is retracted, so what you are experiencing does not happen. Check that it's present, not damaged, and clean.

I'll reclean the bolt sleeve lock. The condition I'm describing would happen if the locking latch depressed, stuck down during the cycling process. The bolt release at LHS touches the locking latch during cycling, but doesn't seem to make it depress. The locking latch spring feels okay (I guess?) but could be weakened. The gun might have been a WD-40 victim based on the gunk cleaned up earlier on. Cannot duplicate the problem either without a cartridge or with a dummy. Thanks so far!

quote:

Originally posted by Russ Gould:
There's a little locking latch on the LHS of the bolt shroud that looks like a keyhole. This locks the bolt handle when the bolt is retracted, so what you are experiencing does not happen. Check that it's present, not damaged, and clean.

Russ, it may be that the lower portion of the slot is worn. The locking latch, when the bolt is open, easily slips out with only a slight twist of the rear portion of the bolt. Or, the latch is missing a bit of metal, worn over time? Anyhow, more a curiosity for me than anything else. Many thanks.

Set the safety to the takedown position and see if the bolt shroud will screw on another turn. Also, we had a pair of SS M70's in the shop belonging to one customer. One of the bolts had the bolt sleeve internal threads clocked around 180 degrees off from the other. This kept the bolt sleeve from screwing on all the way for full lock engagement. A fellow on this forum informed me that there was a time when Winchester changed the threading and there is a specific bolt sleeve that fits it.

Seems a design problem might exist. (Based on 24hrcampfire thread I found.)
https://www.24hourcampfire.com...ter_Model_70_bolt_sl

Tried your "fix", Bobster, cleaned and oiled, etc. May have to just live with what I have. Not ready to spend the money to add metal, replace bolt, whatever. Thanks once again all 'round.

I have used FN made latches in the past to repair/replace on Winchester/USRA guns. Available direct from Browning (BAC) or Midwest Gun Works. They can also supply push feed extractors.

It is not a design problem; that system came from the 03 Springfield, and was, and still is, used on all Model 70s. Post 64 is the same design.
Only bolt actions with three position safeties even need a bolt sleeve lock. You never see them on modern designed actions like Rem 700, 1917 Enfield, Savage 110, etc.
So, what keeps the bolt shroud from turning? A very shallow notch in the bolt rear, for the cocking piece nose to rest in. That would also solve your problem if you do not want to replace your bolt sleeve lock. (And do not open your bolt with the safety in the mid position.)
From what I read, you can turn the bolt shroud when the bolt is removed. That most likely means that your bolt sleeve lock is worn.
Someone needs to look at your bolt.

Working on it. Latch on bolt sleeve lock is worn. Gonna have to get my 'smith to drift it out and replace for me. The pin is stuck good and I don't have a drift smaller then 1/16th. Seems to rub a bit -- shiny parts on head of latch and on part of the sleeve as well. Think the spring might need swapped while we are at it. Daubs of grease help. No safety issues and I have things clean and lubricated enough to just do the shoestring thing if it happens before I get tired enough of the situation to have it done right. Hey, he (Jerry Easley) is gonna want to do the weak magazine spring, right follower (7mm Mauser available) and who knows what all else. I have a blind follower for single shots and it's just a fun / range gun for me anyhow. Thanks for the expertise!

Fixed. 1.5 mm pin punch and Marlin part rec'd from Brownells. Bent pin punch so I used chainsaw sharpener Dremel to take a few thou off a 1/16th pin punch (after KROIL soak) and got the old latch out.

Got some good advice here Wed Jan 02, 2013 6:51 am comment below.
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UPDATE:
I know this thread is old, but I wanted to share this for anyone else that may run in to this problem in the future: I FINALLY fixed my Model 70. I scoured high and low for the breech bolt sleeve lock, to no avail. Contacted Winchester, they no longer manufacture it and have none left in stock. Searched Brownell's, Midway, Numrich Gun Parts, nothing. Found a place online that specializes in machining obsolete Winchester parts, called Weisner's Inc., and even they didn't have any in stock because there wasn't a demand for them. HOWEVER, the proprietor of that site did tell me that you can substitute the breech bolt tab from a Marlin (Brownells part # 550-000-035AH) is very similar to the one used on Model 70 rifles. He said it was a little longer than the Winchester part, so it would need to be fitted; but it dropped right in to my bolt, no problem (your milage may vary). I had already ordered the spring and retaining pin from Numrich Gun Parts (http://www.gunpartscorp.com), then ordered the breech bolt lock from Brownell's, as well as the Winchester 70 Takedown Guide published by Radocy; and was able to repair everything. I even managed to get her cleaned, the bore de-fouled & everything lubed; and even managed to get the scope zeroed in 2 weekends ago. The bolt handle needs to be reblued, but other than that, she is working flawlessly.
So, if anyone else runs in to this problem, and needs to find a breech bolt locking tab for their post-64, pre - redesign Model 70, go to Brownells and order part # 550-000-035AH. If you are looking for other hard to source and obsolete Winchester parts, or obsolete firearms parts in general, check out Weisner's Inc. (http://www.wisnersinc.com).