I am about to send off a Rem model 7 to have it re-barreled to 22-250 using a Douglas XX barrel in #4 contour. I am not familiar with a #4 contour and am concerned with balancing weight with velocity.

This rifle will be used primarily as a coyote hunting rifle and will be carried mostly on foot so I don't want it to be in the 9 to 10 pound range. It will not be used for sustained fire, rather, a single shot and a follow-up if necessary (and I'm doing my part).

My question is, I don't know whether to go with a 20", 22", or a 24" barrel.

Elkslayer, I prefer a 24" tube on the 22-250, but I think you would be better served with 22" for your purposes.

Before I selected a barrel called a #4 I would find out what I was going to get. The Douglas barrels have a "square" shoulder over the breech that I don't like the looks of and when I get a Douglas for a sporter I have the smith taper that shoulder off to fit my stock.

As to the weight of the barrel. I understand how you want to keep the weight down and I am all for it in your application. There is at least one member on the net who has all of the data on what a rifle will weigh by knowing the exact weight of each component. I think his name is Jim F at www.24hourcampfire.com. They like Remingtons there anyway and you will get a response.

The length of a barrel affects the balance of a rifle and a barrel heavy rifle feels heavier also. I would select the contour with great care and start with a 24" length. But I would have the barrel shortened to 22" without a qualm if the balance or weight bothered me. If you order a 22" and it balances well you can't make it longer to see how that will be.

Last I don't think a rifle needs to be heavy to shoot or be shot well.

Savage99 -

You say

quote:

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The Douglas barrels have a "square" shoulder over the breech...

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Could you describe what you mean in more detail? You kinda lost me.

Heavy barrels have their place. They're slower to heat up and walk shots away from your point of aim during long shooting strings. Also, they're easier to steady in the field than featherweight barrrels.
Longer barrels also have their place. The 22-250 is a hot rod and really cries out for the 24" barrel to utilize its potential.

If you want a carry-around coyote rifle, a 24" #4 contour can wear on you carrying it around all day and it will not balance well on a Model 7 unless you add weight to the back. That contradicts your stated goal. Since you want this rifle for a coyote gun, you won't be firing long volleys and heating up the barrel. A #4 really isn't needed. A 24" #3 will carry easier and is plenty stout enough with only a .224 hole bored through it.

SST - I like your thinking

ES, I'd do a #1 contour at 23 or 24"... you don't need the heavy #4 you're planning on for a walk-around yote rig. My 22-250's have delivered top performance in med-sporter weight 24" bbl's. The Douglas #1 tapers to .600" at 24"... perfect IMO.

BA

Brad,
Various barrel makers use slightly different dimensions for their own contours, but Shilen advised me not to go with a 24" barrel unless I went with a #3 contour. I told them I wanted a #2 contour for a carry gun. They said that 22" would be better for a lighter barrel. The longer slender barrels aren't stiff enough for them to recommend.

Sam, you're correct that no mfg's contour's are the same... I mis-spoke in fact and meant to reccomend the Douglas #2 contour (not #1).

BA