Hello Gents,

I solved my earlier question regarding scope bases for this rifle, thanks for all the help.

These Huskys seem prone to the stock splitting behind the rear tang so I was wondering what your thoughts would be to prevent this?

I'm not worried about trying to wring the most accuracy out of this rifle, merely trying to have a decent shooter that I don't have to worry about the stock splitting.

The rifle is a model 640 in 9.3x62 on a FN action in its factory beechwood stock.

Thanks and I appreciate your opinions.

In most of the broken Husqvarna model 640 rifles I have encountered, it is the same old two Mauser problems. The steel tube that keeps the rear tang from pinching the stock has been lost or removed. Or the bedding at the front lug has been allowed to get loose and the action has slopped back and forth under recoil which caused the rear tang to pound rearward into the stock and split it.

Thanks Rod,

This one still has the steel tube so is it sufficient to just bed the recoil lug or do you suggest I not worry about it and just shoot it?

If it's not slopping around, just keep the front tang screw nice and snug and shoot the hell out of it. Bedding the front lug is an insurance policy.

This is an all to common occurrence on Husqvarnas. In almost every case what I've seen is that the recoil lug in the stock has setback. The allows the rear tang to act as a wedge and split the wrist. As a matter of course, I bed every Husqvarna that comes through my shop and ensure that the rear tang doesn't contact the stock.

Thanks Mike,

So what exactly do you bed?

quote:

Originally posted by 470Evans:
Thanks Mike,

So what exactly do you bed?

Bed the recoil lug.
If that is bedded properly you won't split the rear part of the stock at the tang.

Reading this, it occurred to me that I've not seen mention of proper way to INLET the action. You must take advantage of every area including the magazine box that can take recoil, but I'll confine attention to the recoil lug itself.

When lowering the action a small step at a time, use a mallet to +smack the top of the action. Each time you do so, you'll compress the wood directly behind the recoil lug...then remove just barely enough wood to allow the recoil lug to go a little deeper, then repeat the above..maybe .010 at a time. By the time the lug is fully seated. the entire lug area will have been compressed...Now, take a very light scrape across the middle of the lug to transfer recoil mostly the outer edsges..no gap here, just a little release of pressure.

I never use synthetic bedding material even with 500 Jeffery. Decent wood and careful inletting and as mentioned, checking those guard screws occasionally...you have no need
for it.

Of course, if it wasn't done properly in the first place, I'd really suggest metal shims to take advantage of the wood that now has been compressed

Hmmm, and all along i thought all that "whacking" was just transferring inlet black to the stock. Damn neat to know!