Well I have had this factory barrelled 700 BDL 22-250 since 96 and it starting to get to where everytime I pull it out I feel like I am around a gal with PMS.

Anyway this gun has baffled me since the day I bought it.

1)It has always been tight (chamber and neck, can't slip bullet in fired case mouth and no soot on neck) even with factory cartridges and pressure signs (flattened primers and primers pushed into firing pin hole). Out of a box of twenty, ten are generally pretty tight with the bolt not closing on one or two.

2)Without a catridge in it the factory (tuned) trigger breaks at 3 lbs always within an ounce or two, with fired case in it, it breaks all over the map above 3 lbs soemtimes up to 1/1.5 lbs high. This is very noticable when shooting from the bench.

3) Last night I finally get the nerve to pull it back out and notice while tinkering with it that it won't cock when pushing forward on the bolt and cycling the bolt up and down but if you push straight up and down it will cock.

I been told to use it as a donor action but at this point I am not sure if it would be wise to even use it for that, I hear a flushing sound in the back of my mind everytime I think of a rebarrel for this gun. I bought another 22-250 to replace it (not a REM) but would still like to get it to act like the other REMs in the safe.
It shoots good but is a PIA to be around kinda like some women I know.

Any thoughts on cures for it other than the scrap bin or seller to a sucker?

Thanks, RJS

RJS---

I'm not at all sure what to suggest.......since you never said what was actually wrong with it.

A tight neck is an attribute if you want to turn brass to fit it. It's a fault if it makes the gun dangerous.

The trigger has no idea if it's loaded or not. .... you do. I'll bet you the trigger pull is the same.

What do you want to do with it? What's wrong with it?

Sounds a lot like a R700 in .264 I had. Empty it had the perfect 3 lbs. pull. When it was loaded and the trigger was pulled, nothing happened,...until you started to lift the bolt, then it would go off!!. I suspected the cocking piece/cut in bolt handle had too much play. An empty in the chamber produced the same undesirable results. I think the back pressure on the bolt from a chambered round was causing the striker to bind. On a chance, I replaced the factory trigger, with another factory trigger I had on hand and the problem went away. Brownell's and Sinclair sell replacement parts to correct the over-sized slot in the bolt.

As for the tight chamber, I'm not quite understanding your problem. I would measure a factory case, fire it and measure it again and then measure your resized case. I would guess that your die is either bad or out of adjustment, or the chamber is undersized. Regardless of the problem (trigger/striker/bolt/chamber/die) the factory of the respective component should make it right for free. Life is too short to dance with ugly women or battle unhappy rifles.

Jack,

I don't mind the tight neck and chamber so much since the rifle is very accurate even with the trigger pull acting up. I have a trigger pull guage and it/me get consistent results on other rifles and this rifle is consistent without a cartidge that is tight in the chamber. It isn't the trigger, I have replaced it with two other factory triggers and also a Timney and still had the same fluctuations in pull when the bolt closed hard on a round. I am not the only person who has observed this either with guage or actually shooting it, it's that noticeable.

I did take the firing pin assembly out and the tolerances on the bolt shroud threads versus the threads in the tail of the bolt allowed for much sideplay. Also the leading face on the firing pin stop was only bright for about 180% from dry firing; to me the firng pin doesn't look straight. I am wondering if any of this could be causing a problem with cocking piece/sear engagement/binding or if the problem is at the bolt head/lugs/barrel/receiver junction. I am wondering if an upgrade is due for the firing pin assembly.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1550

I would like to find out what is causing the trigger pull fluctuation and get to shooting it instead of putting putting it back in the safe for another day. The smiths in my area look at me like I am nuts when I tell ask about it.

Here is something else I found while looking through Brownells

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1642

RJS

[ 07-03-2003, 06:01: Message edited by: RJS ]

I think you got more problems than meet the eye. First, if you cannot get a bullet to go into the fired case on a factory chambered gun, your chamber is way out of tolerance. I think your problem with the trigger also has something to do with this.