The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Re: How do your reduce trigger pull on a Sharps riGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
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Don't hold your breath, Brent. Scott Sweet isn't called the Ass Clown for no reason. He's L-O-N-G on talk and BS and non-existant on action and reality.  Remember, talks cheap...but the Ass Clown is FREE.  | ||
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Quote: Ya got that right, Pecos. I'll bet you a dollar to a dog turd (ASS CLOWN can hold the stakes in his mouth) Turdboy will undoubtedly have a lame excuse and/or an equally lame explanation for not being able to hold up his end of the deal. | |||
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craigster, You and Pecos. You guys are hilarious. Pecos, Though out some more libel, please! I love it. You cannot possibly understand the immense level of laughter your ignorant, libelous posts generate around here! I'll tell you what, I will post a picture of my new M94 30-30, just to prove I own it! ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Can someone please explain how to adjust the trigger pull down to a reasonable level of a single trigger Sharps? A friend has one and this thing has a ~ 15 lb trigger pull!!! Needless to say accuracy is suffering (even at 30 yards). We really don't want to file down the tumbler or sear to reduce engagement. We are looking for any other bright ideas. I have my idea, which is to preload the sear with a screw, but am interested in knowing if anyone else has figured out a different way to "skin this cat". Thanks, ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Quote: I thought you said you had one. | |||
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Sold mine Dan. This is a REAL Sharps, not a repro like mine was. ASS_CLOWN | |||
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You didn't own it but 3 weeks. That's fast turnaround. | |||
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Dan, yes it is, but such is life. I take it you are clueless as to how to reduce the trigger pull. Anyone have any new ideas? ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Actually I am clueless about whether you ever really owned a Sharps, or whether this was another imagination gun. | |||
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AC, if it is a REAL Sharps as in one made in the 1870s, then do not much with it, and especially do not put a set screw in anything! Might just as well use it for a car jack. Most originals in shooting condition are worth $3k and up. Send it to John King in Kila MT if you must, but frankly, if neither of you know what you are doing, find a local bpcr shooter. They are everywhere, and have them take a look at what you have. A set screw in an original Sharps is like - I don't know, putting water in your beer or something. It's simply not done by civilized people. Heck, send it to me and I'll show you how it shoots. Brent | |||
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AC Remember that gunsmith we talked about (off board)? He'd be the best person I can think of to consult/trust with a job like that. | |||
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Tailgunner, Yes I do, but this guy is far away and paranoid about shipping guns (particularly expensive guns). Brent, I have seen original Sharps with wood screws in their stocks to do precisely what he wants to do. The alternatives are to recut the tumbler and the sear, create an eccentric cam out of the main spring screw head, or thin the main spring, none of which we are too keen of. The end result is the same with all the "fixes" the reduction of the trigger pull effort. The wood screw in the stock preloading the sear seems to be a military and civilian "fix" of the latter 19th century. I merely suggested that he machine the trigger plate and install the a stud there instead of butchering the stock and installing the wood screw. Actually I first told him to see if he could get a repro set trigger to work on the old girl. I am just happy this old man has gotten into the 19th century and started using metallic cartridges. ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Hey ASS CLOWN, Since you're so fuckin' smart and got all the answer's, excuses, and explanations, why do you ask the question in the first place? Keep up the drivel and I think I'll put your sorry ass back on ignore and quit feeding the trolls for a while. | |||
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After the shafting I took the last time I sent a gun out of state for repairs, I don't blame him for wanting to be close to the point of repair. Thought he might be a local at first. | |||
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Craigster, he posts and asks questions so everyone can see him type and show how udderly intelligent he is. Udderly, was not spelled wrong and it is a close term, but I think you have to look higher up the cow for a more apt adjective. Leave him on IGNORE. I certainly have and life without his "wisdom" is much better. | |||
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Quoting Ass Fuck: Quote: Let's see, all this EXPERIENCE from a guy who only recently got a .416? Yes, it's true, a leopard cannot change its spots. | |||
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Zach, When did I ever say I recently got a 416 Rigby (or any other 416 for that matter). Load up some 416 Rigby ammo with the load I posted and see what happens Zach, I dare you! Don't shoot your chrony though, and you should be warned most people consider that load a heavy kicker so you may develop a flinch. Besides all that, what does that quoted post of your's have to do with the trigger pull on a Sharps? Tailgunner, Do you think this gentleman, of whom you speak would, answer some questions anyway? Craigster, I posted this NOT because I did not know A way of "fixing" the problem. I posted it to learn if anyone else knew A BETTER WAY! That is also the reason I explained the ways to "fix" the problem that I knew. Really do not understand all the anomosity.  ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Let's see, less than 2 months ago you fired your first 416. Quote: Then you post two weeks later that you bought a .500 Jeffery Quote: So, I may been wrong saying you had a .416 but that just makes it that much more difficult to believe that you have MOUNTAINS of experience loading for the .416. In the first quote you state you just fired your first big bore, a .416 Rem. So how the fuck did you chronograph all those Rigby loads you are spouting off about? You sir are in dire need of some serious mental help! I can't believe I am actually wasting bandwidth on you. Ignore on! | |||
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Zach, I have posted here for over 4 years. I find this site to be full of know-nothing-know-it-alls! They call me a liar, so I agree with them, but that doesn't make me a liar. If these so-called experts knew the truth, which they claim they do, they would know I wasn't lying in the first place. I apologize to you if you cannot tell when I am BSing and when I am not. Obviously, you do not need to know the difference. Those Rigby loads aren't BS, you should try them if you are after elk with a 416 Rigby. You will get roughly the same trajectory as an -06 shooting 180 grain Nosler Partitions. If all else fails man, remember my handle. I gave up being serious about this place a long time ago! Still doesn't mean I don't post some real and useful information from time to time. Do you happen to know a better way of reducing the trigger pull effort on a Sharps rifle than those I have already explained? This is afterall the reason for this thread. ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Assclown Perhaps it's a coincidence your sign up date here is around the same time I outed another very similar "ass clown" on another board. | |||
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dempsey, Must be coincidence. Most of the old timer here know who I am, or more accurately who I have posted as. Any thoughts with regard to the thread's purpose, that being ways to reduce the trigger pull effort on a Sharps rifle? ASS_CLOWN | |||
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I've always found him to be willing to discuss potential solutions with people. If he's in the middle of some critical work on a customers firearm, he might (politly) exceuse himself when the conversation wanders to far off topic. His is not a "typical gun shop", so don't trip over the tons (literaly) of lead ingots or the cannon next to the door. While your there check out the Win 86 and TC contender barrel he has on display (one SEE and one major reloading opp-sie a customer pulled). | |||
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Tailgunner, I will most definitely have to stop by F&F some time and check the place out and speak to BM. The gentleman whom this posted concerned has followed my advise (will see if that was wise) and installed a stud in the trigger plate, which is set to reduce some of the sear engagement thus reducing the trigger pull effort. He told me last night, during our phone conversation, that this modification has worked wonders for his groups. I told him NOT to walk around with the hammer back and a cartridge in the chamber!! Thanks to all who contributed positively to this thread. ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Oh crap! You talked him into degrading an original rifle that could have been fixed correctly by someone with the correct skills and instead he has committed some sort of garage-bench "fix". I wish you would have waited until I could afford and purchase an original as you have now succeeded in driving their prices ever higher by removing one more from the dwindling inventory of unf*cked originals. What a sad day indeed. Brent | |||
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Brent, Just how would this so-called "expert" of your's have "fixed" this problem without modifying this original Sharps rifle? The answer is he would not have. Have you seen many original Sharps rifles? Those I have seen have all kinds of unique little non-factory tweaks done to them. Kinda like rifles today do. Get a grip man. It is his rifle, and he can do whatever he wants with it. To be quite honest I really don't see the appeal of the Sharps. The stocks don't fit me for crap (really don't know who they would fit), the balance is aweful, etc, etc. ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Honing a seer is not the same as installing a screw stud! Not to mention that if too much would be needed, a new sear would be made, or a new spring, or both. Yeah, I've seen a small number of orginals. Two in the last couple of months that I have considered buying. But they were mucked up by idiots doing things like you describe. They are still for sale because they are worth next to nothing. As for balance, you wouldn't know balance if you got hit by a teeter-totter. And the stocks may well not fit you because you don't know how to hold it. It's not a bolt rifle, you don't hold it the same way. Pathetic. Brent | |||
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Chances are the sear may have been soft in which case hardening it and polishing it smooth is much much less invasive than drilling and installing a screw. Even having a whole new set of internals properly made and fitted would have been preferable to installing a modern screw. At least the old original parts would have been kept ans would fit and work and could be put back in to fully put it back in original form. Either of these methods would not have reduced its value. Fitting a screw does. | |||
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Brent, I will certainly tell the old fool he screwed up, not like you could not find another trigger plate someplace. There aren't any NUMBERS on it or anything! I bet I could make a duplicate and install it with no one the wiser, but who really gives a crap! I assure you that rehoning would NOT have been sufficient. The main spring in this rifle was HEAVY, and the sear engagement into the tumbler was extreme! I know a thing or two about balance, but only as it pertains to bolt actions and doubles. I know how to hold a Sharps too by the way. I also know why the use those funky schutzen stocks, because the normal stocks SUCK thats why! ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Quote: They are all hand fitted, and even if you could find one (you can't) it would not fit. Quote: Then there was probably something else wrong and a new part could be manufactured for use. More than likely your "fix" only cured a symptom and not the problem Quote: You have demonstrated how little you know about a lot of things. This time, it's about a subject that I know fairly well. I can only hope this is just another stupid story, and not something that actually happened. There are quite a number of people that know and understand these rifles and their care and maintanence, not to mention their use. I gave you a name or two; I could have given you a dozen or more if you didn't like those; you blew it off, and another rifle is trashed. There were only a very few thousand ever made, and fewer yet survive. Today there is one less. Why did I bother? Brent | |||
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Brent, I know where several original Sharps rifles live. If you are interested I can direct you to them. The last one these gentlemen bought, not the guy that just SCREWED his up, was a paper cartridge model 1859, I believe, in good condition. He paid $450, thanks to a scumbag gundealer (long story). I really do not think that this gentleman of whom I have spoken in this thread has screwed himself. I am very confident that the damage could be repaired (replaced) and even an expert like yourself would be hard-pressed to notice! The Sharps is a VERY simple weapon, and the "handfitting" you speak of is rather elementary. You really get far to emotional about this stuff. I hope you aren't into cars. The things done to "original" automobiles would make a guy like you (or at least the kinda guy you appear to be) commit suicide! Many old firearms were modified by their original owners and not bubba'd by latter owners as you seem to believe is the case. The original owners "fixed" their weapons for the same reasons this gentleman did, they needed it! Simple fact, no emotional BS needed. A Sharps is a tool, it has but one purpose, never forget that. By the way, the gentleman I spoke of had several firearms worth much more than this Sharps, hand made muzzle loaders some dating back well into the 18 century. He shot them regularly, until a house fire claimed them about 20 years ago. It breaks my heart to see the charred remains of those rifles (these were true museum pieces), all of which were far better weapons balance-wise than this Sharps. ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Quote: I'd be happy as a clam to look at any decent condition sharps whether a 59, 63, 74, 77 or 78. Brent | |||
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Brent, The rifles live in Ohio these days. Let me know the next time you plan on being in eastern Ohio, and I will see if I can arrange a visit. ASS_CLOWN | |||
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For a decent Sharps, I can be there this weekend. Brent | |||
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Brent I am busy the next several weekends (business and pleasure). Are you wanting to look or buy? I am not really sure if either of these gentlemen will sell, but I know one of them is as big a whore as me so if you offer enough he would part with a rifle. Middle to late August would be the best timing for me to go down (planned on getting a truck load of firewood from one of these guys) so they are expecting me (aka everyone's calendars are set up for the visit). ASS_CLOWN | |||
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Pick your time, I'm only interested in rifles for sale. Brent | |||
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Brent, I'll let you know what they say. ASS_CLOWN | |||
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I'll be waiting | |||
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Yeah right, just like the pictures of all the other firearms you "own". Do you really think we give a shit whether or not you own a 30-30? | |||
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craigster, Quote: If I don't own them where and how do I acquire the pictures I post? Quote: You must as you are constantly stating I own NO guns! Which is true as all my firearms are rifles. ASS_CLOWN | |||
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The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Re: How do your reduce trigger pull on a Sharps ri
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