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Re: How do your reduce trigger pull on a Sharps ri
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Don't hold your breath, Brent. Scott Sweet isn't called the Ass Clown for no reason. He's L-O-N-G on talk and BS and non-existant on action and reality.

Remember, talks cheap...but the Ass Clown is FREE.
 
Posts: 19677 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: 23 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Don't hold your breath, Brent



Ya got that right, Pecos. I'll bet you a dollar to a dog turd (ASS CLOWN can hold the stakes in his mouth) Turdboy will undoubtedly have a lame excuse and/or an equally lame explanation for not being able to hold up his end of the deal.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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craigster,

You and Pecos. You guys are hilarious.

Pecos,

Though out some more libel, please! I love it. You cannot possibly understand the immense level of laughter your ignorant, libelous posts generate around here!

I'll tell you what, I will post a picture of my new M94 30-30, just to prove I own it!

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Can someone please explain how to adjust the trigger pull down to a reasonable level of a single trigger Sharps? A friend has one and this thing has a ~ 15 lb trigger pull!!! Needless to say accuracy is suffering (even at 30 yards).



We really don't want to file down the tumbler or sear to reduce engagement. We are looking for any other bright ideas.



I have my idea, which is to preload the sear with a screw, but am interested in knowing if anyone else has figured out a different way to "skin this cat".



Thanks,

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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A friend has one and this thing has a ~ 15 lb trigger pull!!!

Thanks,
ASS_CLOWN




I thought you said you had one.
 
Posts: 18352 | Location: Salt Lake City, Utah USA | Registered: 20 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Sold mine Dan. This is a REAL Sharps, not a repro like mine was.

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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You didn't own it but 3 weeks. That's fast turnaround.
 
Posts: 18352 | Location: Salt Lake City, Utah USA | Registered: 20 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Dan, yes it is, but such is life. I take it you are clueless as to how to reduce the trigger pull.

Anyone have any new ideas?

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Actually I am clueless about whether you ever really owned a Sharps, or whether this was another imagination gun.
 
Posts: 18352 | Location: Salt Lake City, Utah USA | Registered: 20 April 2002Reply With Quote
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AC, if it is a REAL Sharps as in one made in the 1870s, then do not much with it, and especially do not put a set screw in anything! Might just as well use it for a car jack. Most originals in shooting condition are worth $3k and up. Send it to John King in Kila MT if you must, but frankly, if neither of you know what you are doing, find a local bpcr shooter. They are everywhere, and have them take a look at what you have.

A set screw in an original Sharps is like - I don't know, putting water in your beer or something. It's simply not done by civilized people.

Heck, send it to me and I'll show you how it shoots.
Brent
 
Posts: 2257 | Location: Where I've bought resident tags:MN, WI, IL, MI, KS, GA, AZ, IA | Registered: 30 January 2002Reply With Quote
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AC
Remember that gunsmith we talked about (off board)? He'd be the best person I can think of to consult/trust with a job like that.
 
Posts: 2124 | Location: Whittemore, MI, USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Tailgunner,

Yes I do, but this guy is far away and paranoid about shipping guns (particularly expensive guns).

Brent,

I have seen original Sharps with wood screws in their stocks to do precisely what he wants to do. The alternatives are to recut the tumbler and the sear, create an eccentric cam out of the main spring screw head, or thin the main spring, none of which we are too keen of. The end result is the same with all the "fixes" the reduction of the trigger pull effort. The wood screw in the stock preloading the sear seems to be a military and civilian "fix" of the latter 19th century. I merely suggested that he machine the trigger plate and install the a stud there instead of butchering the stock and installing the wood screw.

Actually I first told him to see if he could get a repro set trigger to work on the old girl.

I am just happy this old man has gotten into the 19th century and started using metallic cartridges.

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Hey ASS CLOWN,
Since you're so fuckin' smart and got all the answer's, excuses, and explanations, why do you ask the question in the first place? Keep up the drivel and I think I'll put your sorry ass back on ignore and quit feeding the trolls for a while.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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After the shafting I took the last time I sent a gun out of state for repairs, I don't blame him for wanting to be close to the point of repair.

Thought he might be a local at first.
 
Posts: 2124 | Location: Whittemore, MI, USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Craigster, he posts and asks questions so everyone can see him type and show how udderly intelligent he is. Udderly, was not spelled wrong and it is a close term, but I think you have to look higher up the cow for a more apt adjective. Leave him on IGNORE. I certainly have and life without his "wisdom" is much better.
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Quoting Ass Fuck:
Quote:

I have no experience with the 416 Dakota, but I have mountains of it with the 416 Rigby.

I have yet to find a 416 Rigby case with 132.6 grains of case capacity all mine have ranged between about 126.5 and 129.5 grains of water.

My standard hungting load is 104 grains of IMR 4350, a CCI 250 primer, Norma brass, and a 350 gr Speer for a muzzle velocity of 2785 fps. A slight reduction in accuracy is provided by 106 grains of IMR4350, but the muzzle velocity jumps to 2822 fps with the 350 grain Speer. Another excellent load (in my rifle)is, 109.6 grains of IMR4350, CCI 250 primer, Norma brass and a 340 grain Woodleigh PP for a muzzle velocity of 2870 fps. These chronographed velocities and my rifle has a 24" barrel. I hunt with the Speer, primarily because it is half the cost of the Woodleigh and works fine! Tried some Barnes "X" bullets, but my rifle only liked them when I slowed them down to 2650 - 2700 fps and their effect on game sucked (they literally punched cookie cutter 0.416" diameter holes in the bull elk). So I shalt be using the Barnes again.

Essentially, the 416 Rigby can duplicate the external ballistics of the 30-06, but with twice the energy on target. It is an excellent elk rifle!!

The 416 Rigby will safely shoot 400 grain pills to 2700 fps, NO PROBLEM.

Neither the Dakota or the Remington are going to keep up with the Rigby. That is fact. Is the extra velocity necessary, I don't think so for dangerous game due to the typical ranges to target experienced there. In fact, at less than 100 yards these higher velocities may in fact be detrimental! If however, you use the Rigby for elk, like I do, then the extra velocity is what it is all about.




Let's see, all this EXPERIENCE from a guy who only recently got a .416? Yes, it's true, a leopard cannot change its spots.
 
Posts: 158 | Registered: 22 June 2003Reply With Quote
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Zach,

When did I ever say I recently got a 416 Rigby (or any other 416 for that matter). Load up some 416 Rigby ammo with the load I posted and see what happens Zach, I dare you! Don't shoot your chrony though, and you should be warned most people consider that load a heavy kicker so you may develop a flinch. Besides all that, what does that quoted post of your's have to do with the trigger pull on a Sharps?

Tailgunner,

Do you think this gentleman, of whom you speak would, answer some questions anyway?

Craigster,

I posted this NOT because I did not know A way of "fixing" the problem. I posted it to learn if anyone else knew A BETTER WAY! That is also the reason I explained the ways to "fix" the problem that I knew. Really do not understand all the anomosity.

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Let's see, less than 2 months ago you fired your first 416.
Quote:

Thanks everyone for the comments, I really do appreciate the feedback!

The rifle I was shooting was someone elses so I won't gbe doing anything special to it, and I doubt if I will shoot it again, at least not for some time. It is clear to me that I need to "season up" some, as jeffeosso put it.

I bought a Pedersoli Sharps this afternoon that has been rechambered to 45-90, and this will be my first "Big Bore" rifle. My plan is to start off with 45-70 level loads and work up to near 458 Win mag loads. I figure if I can handle a near 458 Win mag load with that steel buttplate I can handle damned near anything shoulder fired that exists on this planet.

I really did learn some important stuff this weekend about the shooting and handling of these cannons. Much came from the actual shooting, but a great deal also came from all of you. Again thanks.

hart, when I said "kissing" I know the scope was hitting me. The safety glasses were getting shoved into my brow. There actually is a bruise above my right eye, by luckily no permanent mark.

Thanks again,
ASS_CLOWN





Then you post two weeks later that you bought a .500 Jeffery

Quote:

Here it is. I just bought it! My first REAL BIG BORE Rifle! The rifle is a ruger M77 MkII Magnum in 500 Jeffery. It was rebored by somebody, and it is COOL!!!

I took it shooting yesterday! Does this this rock!





So, I may been wrong saying you had a .416 but that just makes it that much more difficult to believe that you have MOUNTAINS of experience loading for the .416. In the first quote you state you just fired your first big bore, a .416 Rem. So how the fuck did you chronograph all those Rigby loads you are spouting off about? You sir are in dire need of some serious mental help!

I can't believe I am actually wasting bandwidth on you. Ignore on!
 
Posts: 158 | Registered: 22 June 2003Reply With Quote
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Zach,

I have posted here for over 4 years. I find this site to be full of know-nothing-know-it-alls! They call me a liar, so I agree with them, but that doesn't make me a liar. If these so-called experts knew the truth, which they claim they do, they would know I wasn't lying in the first place. I apologize to you if you cannot tell when I am BSing and when I am not. Obviously, you do not need to know the difference. Those Rigby loads aren't BS, you should try them if you are after elk with a 416 Rigby. You will get roughly the same trajectory as an -06 shooting 180 grain Nosler Partitions.

If all else fails man, remember my handle. I gave up being serious about this place a long time ago! Still doesn't mean I don't post some real and useful information from time to time.

Do you happen to know a better way of reducing the trigger pull effort on a Sharps rifle than those I have already explained? This is afterall the reason for this thread.

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Assclown
Perhaps it's a coincidence your sign up date here is around the same time I outed another very similar "ass clown" on another board.
 
Posts: 6205 | Location: Cascade, MT | Registered: 12 February 2002Reply With Quote
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dempsey,

Must be coincidence. Most of the old timer here know who I am, or more accurately who I have posted as.

Any thoughts with regard to the thread's purpose, that being ways to reduce the trigger pull effort on a Sharps rifle?

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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I've always found him to be willing to discuss potential solutions with people. If he's in the middle of some critical work on a customers firearm, he might (politly) exceuse himself when the conversation wanders to far off topic.
His is not a "typical gun shop", so don't trip over the tons (literaly) of lead ingots or the cannon next to the door. While your there check out the Win 86 and TC contender barrel he has on display (one SEE and one major reloading opp-sie a customer pulled).
 
Posts: 2124 | Location: Whittemore, MI, USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Tailgunner,

I will most definitely have to stop by F&F some time and check the place out and speak to BM.

The gentleman whom this posted concerned has followed my advise (will see if that was wise) and installed a stud in the trigger plate, which is set to reduce some of the sear engagement thus reducing the trigger pull effort. He told me last night, during our phone conversation, that this modification has worked wonders for his groups. I told him NOT to walk around with the hammer back and a cartridge in the chamber!!

Thanks to all who contributed positively to this thread.

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Oh crap! You talked him into degrading an original rifle that could have been fixed correctly by someone with the correct skills and instead he has committed some sort of garage-bench "fix".

I wish you would have waited until I could afford and purchase an original as you have now succeeded in driving their prices ever higher by removing one more from the dwindling inventory of unf*cked originals.

What a sad day indeed.

Brent
 
Posts: 2257 | Location: Where I've bought resident tags:MN, WI, IL, MI, KS, GA, AZ, IA | Registered: 30 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Brent,

Just how would this so-called "expert" of your's have "fixed" this problem without modifying this original Sharps rifle?

The answer is he would not have. Have you seen many original Sharps rifles? Those I have seen have all kinds of unique little non-factory tweaks done to them. Kinda like rifles today do.

Get a grip man. It is his rifle, and he can do whatever he wants with it. To be quite honest I really don't see the appeal of the Sharps. The stocks don't fit me for crap (really don't know who they would fit), the balance is aweful, etc, etc.

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Honing a seer is not the same as installing a screw stud!

Not to mention that if too much would be needed, a new sear would be made, or a new spring, or both.

Yeah, I've seen a small number of orginals. Two in the last couple of months that I have considered buying. But they were mucked up by idiots doing things like you describe. They are still for sale because they are worth next to nothing.

As for balance, you wouldn't know balance if you got hit by a teeter-totter. And the stocks may well not fit you because you don't know how to hold it. It's not a bolt rifle, you don't hold it the same way. Pathetic.

Brent
 
Posts: 2257 | Location: Where I've bought resident tags:MN, WI, IL, MI, KS, GA, AZ, IA | Registered: 30 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Chances are the sear may have been soft in which case hardening it and polishing it smooth is much much less invasive than drilling and installing a screw.

Even having a whole new set of internals properly made and fitted would have been preferable to installing a modern screw. At least the old original parts would have been kept ans would fit and work and could be put back in to fully put it back in original form.

Either of these methods would not have reduced its value.

Fitting a screw does.
 
Posts: 513 | Location: MO | Registered: 14 March 2003Reply With Quote
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Brent,

I will certainly tell the old fool he screwed up, not like you could not find another trigger plate someplace. There aren't any NUMBERS on it or anything! I bet I could make a duplicate and install it with no one the wiser, but who really gives a crap!

I assure you that rehoning would NOT have been sufficient. The main spring in this rifle was HEAVY, and the sear engagement into the tumbler was extreme!

I know a thing or two about balance, but only as it pertains to bolt actions and doubles. I know how to hold a Sharps too by the way. I also know why the use those funky schutzen stocks, because the normal stocks SUCK thats why!

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Brent,

I will certainly tell the old fool he screwed up, not like you could not find another trigger plate someplace. There aren't any NUMBERS on it or anything! I bet I could make a duplicate and install it with no one the wiser, but who really gives a crap!




They are all hand fitted, and even if you could find one (you can't) it would not fit.

Quote:

I assure you that rehoning would NOT have been sufficient. The main spring in this rifle was HEAVY, and the sear engagement into the tumbler was extreme!



Then there was probably something else wrong and a new part could be manufactured for use. More than likely your "fix" only cured a symptom and not the problem

Quote:

I know a thing or two about balance, but only as it pertains to bolt actions and doubles. I know how to hold a Sharps too by the way. I also know why the use those funky schutzen stocks, because the normal stocks SUCK thats why!




You have demonstrated how little you know about a lot of things. This time, it's about a subject that I know fairly well. I can only hope this is just another stupid story, and not something that actually happened.

There are quite a number of people that know and understand these rifles and their care and maintanence, not to mention their use. I gave you a name or two; I could have given you a dozen or more if you didn't like those; you blew it off, and another rifle is trashed. There were only a very few thousand ever made, and fewer yet survive. Today there is one less.

Why did I bother?

Brent
 
Posts: 2257 | Location: Where I've bought resident tags:MN, WI, IL, MI, KS, GA, AZ, IA | Registered: 30 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Brent,

I know where several original Sharps rifles live. If you are interested I can direct you to them. The last one these gentlemen bought, not the guy that just SCREWED his up, was a paper cartridge model 1859, I believe, in good condition. He paid $450, thanks to a scumbag gundealer (long story).

I really do not think that this gentleman of whom I have spoken in this thread has screwed himself. I am very confident that the damage could be repaired (replaced) and even an expert like yourself would be hard-pressed to notice! The Sharps is a VERY simple weapon, and the "handfitting" you speak of is rather elementary.

You really get far to emotional about this stuff. I hope you aren't into cars. The things done to "original" automobiles would make a guy like you (or at least the kinda guy you appear to be) commit suicide!

Many old firearms were modified by their original owners and not bubba'd by latter owners as you seem to believe is the case. The original owners "fixed" their weapons for the same reasons this gentleman did, they needed it! Simple fact, no emotional BS needed. A Sharps is a tool, it has but one purpose, never forget that. By the way, the gentleman I spoke of had several firearms worth much more than this Sharps, hand made muzzle loaders some dating back well into the 18 century. He shot them regularly, until a house fire claimed them about 20 years ago. It breaks my heart to see the charred remains of those rifles (these were true museum pieces), all of which were far better weapons balance-wise than this Sharps.

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Brent,

I know where several original Sharps rifles live. If you are interested I can direct you to them. The last one these gentlemen bought, not the guy that just SCREWED his up, was a paper cartridge model 1859, I believe, in good condition. He paid $450, thanks to a scumbag gundealer (long story).




I'd be happy as a clam to look at any decent condition sharps whether a 59, 63, 74, 77 or 78.

Brent
 
Posts: 2257 | Location: Where I've bought resident tags:MN, WI, IL, MI, KS, GA, AZ, IA | Registered: 30 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Brent,

The rifles live in Ohio these days. Let me know the next time you plan on being in eastern Ohio, and I will see if I can arrange a visit.

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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For a decent Sharps, I can be there this weekend.
Brent
 
Posts: 2257 | Location: Where I've bought resident tags:MN, WI, IL, MI, KS, GA, AZ, IA | Registered: 30 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Brent I am busy the next several weekends (business and pleasure). Are you wanting to look or buy? I am not really sure if either of these gentlemen will sell, but I know one of them is as big a whore as me so if you offer enough he would part with a rifle.

Middle to late August would be the best timing for me to go down (planned on getting a truck load of firewood from one of these guys) so they are expecting me (aka everyone's calendars are set up for the visit).

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Pick your time, I'm only interested in rifles for sale.
Brent
 
Posts: 2257 | Location: Where I've bought resident tags:MN, WI, IL, MI, KS, GA, AZ, IA | Registered: 30 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Brent,

I'll let you know what they say.

ASS_CLOWN
 
Posts: 1673 | Location: MANY DIFFERENT PLACES | Registered: 14 May 2004Reply With Quote
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I'll be waiting
 
Posts: 2257 | Location: Where I've bought resident tags:MN, WI, IL, MI, KS, GA, AZ, IA | Registered: 30 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Yeah right, just like the pictures of all the other firearms you "own". Do you really think we give a shit whether or not you own a 30-30?
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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craigster,

Quote:

just like the pictures of all the other firearms you "own".




If I don't own them where and how do I acquire the pictures I post?

Quote:

Do you really think we give a shit whether or not you own a 30-30?




You must as you are constantly stating I own NO guns! Which is true as all my firearms are rifles.

ASS_CLOWN
 
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***You are ignoring this user***
 
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