Hello,

A recent thread (Take Five) brought to mind a couple questions I have in general about bedding, so I figured I'd start a new thread on that topic.

1) As far as keeping the bedding material out of the action screw holes, both in the receiver and the stock, how? I take it I could put some sort of inletting screws in the action to keep things lined up until things firm up, and then replace w/ the actions screws? Is this right? Any concern about bedding material getting down in the hole in the stock for the action screws in the process?

2) Does the time to cure for bedding material vary w/ product? I've seen wildly varying numbers, from pull the barreled action out after a couple hours to clean up needed areas, and then clamp back together snugly for 48hrs, to 1-2 days for the first step and 1-2 weeks for the second. For the particular project I have in mind, I was leaning towards some of the more 'putty' or thick 'gel' type bedding material like Devcon or Pro-Bed. Any special considerations there?

3) The particular stock/action that I'm dealing w/ is an HS Precision stock w/ ABB in it, and it's already been 'skim' bedded. Now I'm looking at trying to raise the action up in the stock ~1/16th inch. Any suggestions as to the best way to accomplish that? One person mentioned doing multiple bedding jobs until the action is where I want it, which could be doable, depending on the 'cure' time answer above. This gun is going to be used a bunch this summer, and having it OOC for weeks at a time is not an option I'm real enthused about if I can avoid it.

Thanks,

Monte

milanuk--

I use modeling clay in all screw holes, dovetails, ledges and recesses. I NEVER put tang screws in a glass job.

To raise the action drill small holes and stick match sticks in them and trim to whatever height you want. Add glass and set the action in.

I use one big woodworkers clamp with a bar across the top of the action to even out the force.

Matchsticks, eh? No problems w/ the relative soft material remaining behind when you fill in around them w/ bedding?

Anybody feeling game, feel free to take a swipe at the other questions, please.

Thanks,

Monte

Milanuk:

A. I use paste wax to plug holes that I don't want bedding compound in. I use inletting screws to keep things lined up. If some compound squeezes down into the stock holes I ream the holes with a slightly oversize drill bit after I'm all done. Rather than use the guard screws to pull the barreled-action into the bedding compound, I push it down by hand as far as I can then tightly wrap surgical tubing around the action and stock. This keeps the action in place while the compound is setting and applies even force. I have also had good success with a clamp and bar across the top of the action as JBelk described.

B. I use Brownells acra-glas gel with their black dye. At room temperature I am able to remove the barreled-action from the stock after about six hours. Before attempting disassembly, I remove the inletting screws with a large screwdriver(I cut slots in the ends of the screws).The compound has not fully set but is very firm. I trim as required with a razor knife then re-assemble the rifle using stockmakers screws(rather than the inletting scrws) and leave it for another 18-20 hours minimum before disassembling again. I won't shoot the rifle for at least a week-preferably longer.

C. If I was to raise an action in the stock I might use a metal shim of the right thickness(a small washer???) behind the recoil lug and another under the rear tang(I'm assuming a flat receiver bottom a la Mauser). Then bed the washer into the bedding compound.

Whatever you do, use lots of release agent on EVERYTHING metal. I have used the Brownells product and never had a problem. Paste wax works well also. I remove the trigger assembly on all my bedding jobs.

You can use very small nails or tacks as opposed to matchsticks if you like..I prefer to just let the action settle into the glass after slowly pushing it down to make contact with my memory nails, matchsticks or whatever....I never use screws or clamps as this will sometimes place stresses on the action when the bottom metal screws are tightened on the finished product...I also use clay and lots of Johnsons wax. I usually strip the action completely, but not always depending on the complexity or the bedding job and the amount of bedding required.

Monte,

1) I ALWAYS use the action screws to set the action down into the stock. I never have had any problems with torquing anything or creating any problems on the bedding job. I just tighten up the screws and in your case snug them up against the shims you place in the stock. BTW, what action is it? Will make a difference on how you approach the shimming. I put the action screws up into the action coated well with floor wax. I tape them in place so they don't fall out. The action is lowered down onto the screws
and then started with a screw driver. The important thing is keeping any epoxy out of the hole in the action, it isn't hard.

2)Most of the cure times are very similar. Check the boxes. I use GOOP, Supermend Epoxy. You can get it at Lowes on 9th Street. It is white and if you want to color it find someone with a xerox copier and get a bit of the black material out of a toner cartridge to color it with that. A little goes a long ways. Most of the epoxies will gel in 15 minutes (GOOP) to one hour. It sets up relatively hard in 12 hours or so and cures over 2 or 3 days. The 1 to 4 mizture epoxies take longer to set and cure but generally are stronger but the extra strength is not needed in this application.

3) Shim it with 1/16 inch thick material. The action type determines the shape of the material. If you have a flat bottom of the action it is easy.

Give me a call if you need any other advice.

Chic,

I checked your web page, and it looks like you live about 2 miles *max* from my place (as the crow flies). I'm about 2 miles up Stemilt Creek Rd; we bought Justin Lindays place a couple years ago.

I've accumulated a fair number of responses and a lot of good information on this project, which seems (to me, a beginner at bedding) just enough different from a 'normal' stock bedding project I wasn't entirely sure how to proceed. I think for now I'm going to *start* w/ bedding the trigger guard / floorplate out slightly (1/16th or so) and see what that gains me. If I still need more, I'll see about jacking up the action in the stock a smidge as well.

Thanks again,

Monte

JBelk- If one is to bed a Ruger MKII, which screws can they leave out? Thanks for any and all info.

JBelk, what do you use on rem 700's round action? Maybe just use headless screws to line the action up, or is that a no-no? I just did a 700 yesterday and used the guide screws to drop the action in, and then removed them to replace with regular guide screws and tightened them finger tight. was that bad? Please elaborate. thanks...

To clarify, it is preferable to use guide screws when glass bedding, but I use only guide screws and I don't take them out an use the regular screws and tighten them up...Let the action settle on its own...or use rubber tubing on the rear action ring. the action will stop when it settles to the memory pegs. I then drill out the action holes as the guide screws are usually smaller than the action screws and those screws do not need to be touching wood or glass...

I also use guide screws to make sure the action is in the right place.

On Ruger M-77s I mount the rings on the action and use surgical tubing to pull down and to the rear at the same time by wrapping around the back of the grip first then around and around. I don't bother with guide screws on them, either.

Anyone ever try a product called PC7 to bed an action? I used it to secure reel seats to fishing rods and it is very strong. It is a 2 part epoxy, that easily cleans with Alcohol, it has the consistency of window putty and is easy to work with. It stays where you put it. I never did a bedding job but was curious if anyone tried this product. Paste wax and the other release agents will work with it.

Frank D