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<Bruce Gordon> |
Anybody?? | ||
<MC> |
Bruce, Just my opinion, but I think that bonding some sort of wood to the stock would be the best bet. All in all wood will be the easiest to shape and form to your needs. | ||
one of us |
Epoxy putty, auto parts store, will make the grip modification. As for the palm rest, make one from hardwood and apply it. I would make it fit the old stock very precisely, then attach it from inside the barrel channel with drywall screws and epoxy in the mating surfaces. When you are happy with it paint the whole works. | |||
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Moderator |
I think some folks might be fearing the rath of Ray ;-) I have had some stocks that needed some filler added, and I used Bondo autobody filler. Just rough up the wood for adhesion, glob it on close to the dimensions you want, then go back with a rasp to rough it down to shape, then sandpaper it. Now, you'll have a rather hideous looking stock, so I put on a layer of grey primer to the whole stock, then a coat of "artificial stone" in the granite color. You'll have a unique looking stock with a nice texture. | |||
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one of us |
Bruce, I used some scrap mahogany because it is easy to work. I countersunk some screw holes and screwed the wood to the stock first. It lets you pull it back off if you go to far. After it was shaped and pretty close to what I wanted, I switched to stainless screws and roughed up the bonding areas with a dremel. I used acraglass gel to glue it all together and wrapped it with surgical tubing while it dried. I plugged the holes with wood and acraglass. After final shaping I roughed it up and my friend shot it with an airless sprayer and a spray on bed liner. He was painting his beater IHC Scout with the stuff so that part was easy. It turned out pretty good but it only fit me. Good luck with your project. | |||
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one of us |
Saints preserve us!!! ------------------ | |||
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Moderator |
Ray, The stock I did it to had already been nearly destroyed, long story, but some folks just shouldn't stock a 458 lott, especially when the put the cross bolt not behind the recoil lug, but behind and just under it, so the stock is weakened and the lug can sheer off the little bit of wood that is there, not to mention the tang being driven back to crack the grip of the stock. There were other issues, and the LOP was way to short. The other stock was a turk mauser, that was too short as well. With the finishes on the stocks, I figured they were no good for firewood, so I might as well perform hideous experiments on em. As for the original post, its a remington, so who cares? If it were a mauser, I could understand the heart palpitations. | |||
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<Bruce Gordon> |
Thanks for the help guys, I will get a can of the body filler and try it. The stock is an old one that came on a rifle many years ago. I did not want to go to the trouble of making a new one from a blank until I know just the specific shape I want and this gives me something to play with and shoot without wasting a lot of time and effort. Once I get it down just right, I will get an oversize blank to make the real thing from. One last question, Does anybody know where I can get a laminated blank that is enough oversize that I can make a good offhand stock? What I am adding is about 2" below where the magazine bottom would normally be in order to give me more height when holding the rifle. Another possibility is if somebody makes such a 90% inletted stock that I could mount my adjustable cheek piece and butt plate on. | ||
one of us |
Paul, OK, thats fine, you just scared me, thats all. ------------------ | |||
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Moderator |
Try sending an email to: http://www.milesgilbert.com/ they carry stock making supplies. Also, might want to send an email to ww.fajen.com, even though they don't do custom work anymore, they might have a few other leads too. | |||
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Moderator |
Ray, I'm sure you'll be pleased to here that my VZ-24 35 whelen ackley will have its tupperware stock replaced with a piece of wood, my first dabble at stockmaking, and it won't be painted, if I can pull it off, it'll have a fleur de-lis pattern. I'd love to just have a handrubbed oil finish, but need something a bit more durable up here, so will likely use Sitka Deer's technique of epoxy to seal the wood, then rub oil on top. Oh yeah, I also plan to eventually try and cold rust blue the whelen as well, but I need to get the irons on it first. | |||
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