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Rem J lock
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Some comments came up in another forum about j locks locking up from recoil. I was wondering what is involved to either remove this or disable it from locking up?


My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost.
 
Posts: 6644 | Location: Wasilla, Alaska | Registered: 22 February 2005Reply With Quote
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The trouble with these damned things...other than the obvious...is the spring binding inside the bolt.

When you strip a bolt the shroud/spring/firing pin assembly should almost fall out once it is unscrewed. Every J-Lock bolt I have stripped I had to literally pull and twist to get the assembly out of the bolt body. Once you get it out it looks like someone has installed a long action spring on a short action firing pin. The damned spring looks like a worm on the move with humps and valleys all along its length.

My suggestion is to buy either a Remington replacement assembly w/o the lock, or one from Holland or Gre-Tan. These units replace everything...shroud, cocking piece, firing pin and spring, and they install without any modification or fitting required. Brownells has all of them.
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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Thanks Rick. I know how to remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt. Is it easy just to swap out the bolt shroud and save some money?


My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost.
 
Posts: 6644 | Location: Wasilla, Alaska | Registered: 22 February 2005Reply With Quote
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You know how Brownells web site works I assume...run these part numbers and they will show all the different ones available within that brand. Long , short, blued, stainless, etc.

Gre-Tans are part number 100-000-446

Remingtons are 767-220-400

Don’t have a part number for the Holland model but they can order it for you if you ask them.
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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I dont know anything about Gre-Tans. They cost $10 more than the Rem parts. Is there anything that makes them worth the extra money?


My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost.
 
Posts: 6644 | Location: Wasilla, Alaska | Registered: 22 February 2005Reply With Quote
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Yes...IMO...because they are held to closer tolerances than the factory parts, and they give slightly quicker lock time if that’s a consideration.

That is not to say that the factory assembly is bad...just that the Gre-Tan’s are a bit better in fit and finish.
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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Hi Rick0311...........
May I presume to ask........
Can YOU do the "smithing"on my bolt to get rid of the J-lock? I could send you the bolt.
Awe....c'mon......c'mon....
Alex
 
Posts: 2097 | Location: Gainesville, FL | Registered: 13 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Conifer,
You can buy the complete assemby at Brownells for $41. It simply screws into your bolt.


My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost.
 
Posts: 6644 | Location: Wasilla, Alaska | Registered: 22 February 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by conifer:
Hi Rick0311...........
May I presume to ask........
Can YOU do the "smithing"on my bolt to get rid of the J-lock? I could send you the bolt.
Awe....c'mon......c'mon....
Alex


conifer,

If you look in the manual that came with your rifle it shows you how to field strip the bolt. If you can do that all you have to do is reinstall the new assembly in place of the old one. They come already assembled and the whole process takes less time than it just took me to type this.
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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