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Filling extra holes in a receiver
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Know this is old and common practice to most here, but thought I'd post for anyone that hasn't seen it before. Had a hole to fill today, so took pictures.

To fill a hole in an action (or barrel), thread in a tight fitting screw (deform the threads slightly if needed, at the bottom end). Cut off 1/16" or so above the surface, and use a light hammer to peen and swell up the screw into the hole tightly, mushrooming over the metal to just proud of the surface. File off, and polish, and it will be nearly invisible when blued or color cased.



 
Posts: 1126 | Location: Eastern Oregon | Registered: 02 December 2007Reply With Quote
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Rust blue will probably hide your filler screw but hot caustic blue or case color hardening will quite probably show it, in my experience.
I can also see where your hammering has altered the bevel on the front of the action. You can lightly file up the bevel to match.


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Posts: 1858 | Registered: 07 February 2005Reply With Quote
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I plug them with a screw and saw off the head, leaving 1/16 sticking out. TIG melt it.
 
Posts: 17442 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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The best Ive seen was driving a red hot pin it a bored out screw hole..hides best under a bright light, or sunshine done right. Not sure of the specifics just the results.


Ray Atkinson
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Posts: 42314 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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dpcd
Do you "weld" the screw to the action with the TIG or just use the arc to melt the screw flat to the receivers surface.



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Posts: 4271 | Location: TN USA | Registered: 17 March 2002Reply With Quote
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You weld the screw to the receiver, but it's not very deep with TIG. If you just melted the screw you would still have a pit. And that would be harder to do than just melting both together. TIG is like making a little puddle of pudding. Sort of.
 
Posts: 17442 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Just as a sales plug, I make and sell threaded inserts, 6-48 and 8-40, 1018 and 4140.

Thread it in until it is flush with the bottom of the hole, cut the top off nearly flush, put a healthy chamfer on both the screw and the hole, run a root pass around, fill, file.

I found that using screws was problematic at times.


Nathaniel Myers
Myers Arms LLC
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I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools.
 
Posts: 1527 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 06 June 2010Reply With Quote
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When our shop got a TIG last year a friend of mine came by to teach us how to weld with it. He had worked for Union Carbide and ESAB for many years as an instructor. He showed us how to fill pits by snipping a bit of steel wire and laying it in the pit. Then puddle it with the TIG torch.

quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
You weld the screw to the receiver, but it's not very deep with TIG. If you just melted the screw you would still have a pit. And that would be harder to do than just melting both together. TIG is like making a little puddle of pudding. Sort of.
 
Posts: 3873 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
I plug them with a screw and saw off the head, leaving 1/16 sticking out. TIG melt it.


AND, that's the best way to avoid undercuts. A nice little pimple.
 
Posts: 160 | Location: Homer, AK | Registered: 11 April 2013Reply With Quote
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Just another way...I ream out the hole and drive in a taper pin...Like DCPD, leave about 1/16" above and tig.

No chance of crud from the threads migrating into the weld
 
Posts: 3675 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With Quote
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If one does that on the front ring of a receiver does it need to be reheat treated.


KJK
 
Posts: 699 | Location: MN | Registered: 11 December 2020Reply With Quote
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