I have had several Ruger No. 3's rebarrelled and fitted the barrelled actions to pistol grip stocks. However, the lever does not mesh well with the pistol grip, in my opinion. The lever just does not lend itself to this kind of stock as well as, for example, the Winchester M1885 High Wall or Low Wall.
I would be interested in seeing/hearing about others' solution to this problem.
I have heated the lever with a torch and reshaped it easily and then refinished it. Be careful not to heat it too much so no scale forms at the reshaped area. Very easy to do. Good luck.
Do it right the first time.
Posts: 239 | Location: North Smithfield, RI USA | Registered: 09 March 2002
Check out the looks of a M-99 (curved) Savage lever welded to your cut off Ruger lever. Leupold featured one of their scopes on just such a custom many years ago. I fell in love with the concept and looks. Consequently I did just that with a #3 I had and am in the finishing stages as I write. A bonus to this type of lever is quick reloading. Your wrist grip fingers are encased in the lever allowing the other hand unimpeded reloading access. It takes a bit to understand the logic, but it works. Shoot, drop the loop lever with right or left hand and the other is free to insert the following round. It eliminates awkwardly hanging on to a stick, shall we say, hanging down at unloading.
Any one interested in seeing my Ruger/Savage, let me know. I will put the rifle together and post pictures.
I knew I should have not mentioned pictures. However, I did and I will take some tomorrow and attempt to post. I am electronically challenged, have no cell phone and quite proud of the lack of cell phone. I just am not that important.
The old NRA "Gunsmithing Guide" has an article about mods for the rifle and shows the lever mod. Not a big deal. Cut off the end of the lever Bend the end of the lever up around the back of the trigger. Weld the cut off part to the rear bottom of the lever and you're done !
Originally posted by Lord Frith: I knew I should have not mentioned pictures. However, I did and I will take some tomorrow and attempt to post. I am electronically challenged, have no cell phone and quite proud of the lack of cell phone. I just am not that important.
Stephen
If you can email the photos to me, I will do my best to post them. I am gradually getting the hang of it.
Here are a few pics of a low wall I did a while back. Not a No 3 but similar. I like the lever on the Hagn action and tried to replicate it to some degree while still retaining the curves of the low wall lever. Please note that the thickness and taper of the lever vary, with the portion behind the trigger being tapered in all 3 planes while the finger-actuated rear arm has a slightly enlarged, somewhat wider, pad at the rear. Some smiths make this end pad even larger, with other enlarged pads on the trigger and even the hammer spur. Regards, Joe
__________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008
[QUOTE]Originally posted by J.D.Steele: Here are a few pics of a low wall I did a while back. Not a No 3 but similar. I like the lever on the Hagn action and tried to replicate it to some degree while still retaining the curves of the low wall lever. Please note that the thickness and taper of the lever vary, with the portion behind the trigger being tapered in all 3 planes while the finger-actuated rear arm has a slightly enlarged, somewhat wider, pad at the rear. Some smiths make this end pad even larger, with other enlarged pads on the trigger and even the hammer spur. Regards, Joe[/QUOTE
JD, Nice looking work. I am always pleased to see what can be done with a bit creative pencil design, good welding techniques and file work. Again, nice stuff and thanks for the pictures.
