OK Guys,

I have one of the Savage 110 (I think) with the barrel nut arrangement.

I need to pull the barrel to ship it for threading. Wrench is cheap.

How does one hold the action while using the wrench?

Thanks!

I haven't taken the barrel out of a Savage 110, but I have taken them out of lots of other makes and designs of rifles.

What I have always done is hold the rifle by the BARREL, not the action. I put the barrel in a barrel vice (which is easy to make for yourself, if need be), and then turn whatever needs to be turned, on or off. Would that not work with the Savage?

Alberta,

I have built a barrel vise and action wrench for Mausers.

Did a search for the process on a Savage 110 action. Need a barrel vise and a nut wrench. Might need an action wrench ... apparently is a maybe.

Apparently the action diameter is the save as a Remington. Not sure how that differs from the Brownell's design that I copied when I build the action wrench.

I just put the barrel in a barrel vise and tap the bbl nut wrench to loosen (tap as in rap hell
out of it if factory) no action wrench needed.

Aaron

G'Day Fella's,

Probably 15 years ago now, I had one of Australia's premier bench rest gunsmiths (JG) convert a Rem 700 rifle of mine into a sleeved, switch barrel live varmint rifle.
After forking out lots of $$$$ for this, I was a bit short on $, for a barrel vice.
My solution was; I found an old steel piston Connecting Rod and cut it off half way along the rod and discarded the gudgeon pin end of it. I then cut a piece of 1" x 1" x 1/4" thick Angle Iron, about 4" long. I then drilled a couple of 3/8" diameter holes (for bolts) in the flats, 1" in from the ends of the angle iron and welded the Con Rod in the middle of the angle iron, so that I could either hold it in a vice or bolt it to a bench top or the rear bumper bar of my Land Cruiser. I found a piece of solid aluminum bar that was slightly bigger in diameter than the bearing end of the Con Rod and machined it down to the correct OD to fit snugly in the Con Rod (and about 1 1/2" long). At the same time, I bored it out to a diameter that was a snug fit on the various barrels, 2" forward of the forend tip of the stock. I then used a hack saw to make a cut from the outside diameter of the aluminum bush to the inside hole (but only on one side) and Bingo, I had a Portable Barrel Vice!

Hope this helps

Doh!
Homer

Go to www.savageshooters.com You can find all the answers to your questions about Savage Rifles there. I took a hardwood block, drilled a hole just under barrel diameter, cut in half to make a temporary barrel vise. Wrap some duct tape around the barrel,slide nut wrench on barrel, place wood blocks around tape spot, place in bench mount vise and tighten hard. Give nut wrench a blow from a 3 lb hammer and nut should come loose. Then you should be able to spin off action. If you still have scope bases still mount, the front screw might be long enough to engage the barrel threads and lock the barrel on. So remove the front base.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Whitmoyer:
Go to www.savageshooters.com You can find all the answers to your questions about Savage Rifles there.

aye.

To do a proper job you need a barrel vise, an action wrench and a wrench for the nut. The idea is to hold the action and barrel stationary while you turn the nut to loosed it so you can remove the barrel. When reinstalling the barrel you again put the barrel into a vise to hold it, a wrench on the barrel nut to tighten it and a wrench on the action to hold it still while you tighten the nut. Before you begin however, be sure to remove the ejector from the bolt so you can get a better feel for the "go" gauge when you tighten the action onto the barrel. Then you can tighten the nut after unlocking the bolt. How this became a "simple" thing to do I have no idea (internet maybe), it really is one of the more difficult barrel changes to do.

Switchbarrel.com is a site that specializes in Savage barrel swapping.

[a link=http://www.switchbarrel.com/Savage%20FAQ.htm]Go here[/a]

I don't know if this is how you post a link here, but if it doesn't work I suspect that you can paste the url and get there...

Or do a Google search....

quote:

Originally posted by clowdis:
To do a proper job you need a barrel vise, an action wrench and a wrench for the nut. The idea is to hold the action and barrel stationary while you turn the nut to loosed it so you can remove the barrel. When reinstalling the barrel you again put the barrel into a vise to hold it, a wrench on the barrel nut to tighten it and a wrench on the action to hold it still while you tighten the nut. Before you begin however, be sure to remove the ejector from the bolt so you can get a better feel for the "go" gauge when you tighten the action onto the barrel. Then you can tighten the nut after unlocking the bolt. How this became a "simple" thing to do I have no idea (internet maybe), it really is one of the more difficult barrel changes to do.

There is a relation, somewhat, to installing a barrel on a Savage and the AR15/AR10. They both have a barrel nut. They both have a means of stopping the barrel from turning...let me explain. The notch in the threads of the AR's really is to index the barrel as the barrel extension has the indexing stud on it into which it mates with that notch. The Savage lug has and action receiver face have a notch and raised matching lug. This indexes the action lug. What happens on the AR's is the barrel nut is rubbing the barrel extension flange when tightening it and it tries to turn the barrel assembly. What usually happens is the notch in the upper receiver threads,which is aluminum, gets diveted..then you have a problem of the barrel not being indexed. The barrel nut on the Savage also rubs agains the lug washer when tightening. I agree with the poster here to do the job right with the Savage you should have an action vice or wrench to hold the action from turning in addition to the barrel vise. On the AR's most only use the action blocks. They should use a barrel vice here to prevent from damaging that slot in the upper receiver thread area.

I was told if you're going to use the Savage for a one time barrel swap, that is not a series of barrels you will interchange, that you just snug up the barrel nut. You don't have to lay on nut wrench. If you are doing barrel swaps you want a torque figure that you adhere to to insure it's the same each time you assemble it. I was told 40 foot pounds is a good number. On the AR's they say to grease the receiver threads, but I can tell you too that you should grease the face of the barrel flange and the barrel nut won't want to try to turn it as much.

I've swapped a number of Savage barrels. The easiest way to it is to use an action wrench and a barrel nut wrench, there is no need for a barrel vise (even though I have one of those also). The cheapest action wrench I've found is the Wheeler sold by Midway, it fits Remy 700's as well as Savages. I just clamp on the action wrench and place the action and wrench on a carpeted floor. Then slip on the barrel nut wrench and step on it. It's that easy.

quote:

Originally posted by Alberta Canuck:
I haven't taken the barrel out of a Savage 110, but I have taken them out of lots of other makes and designs of rifles.

What I have always done is hold the rifle by the BARREL, not the action. I put the barrel in a barrel vice (which is easy to make for yourself, if need be), and then turn whatever needs to be turned, on or off. Would that not work with the Savage?

Yes it does but be prepared to use a little torque, heat and KROIL. Some of the Savages and Stevens use the Black Max. One rifle took a week of heating ,drawing Kroil into the threads and a 4# sledge. Midway sells the barrel vise.
You'll find that the action wrench really comes in handy. Let nobody shit ya. roger