I have just picked up a 1909 Spanish Mauser, rebarrelled but still in 7X57, sporter stock, new trigger, and micrometer sight. Bolt handle is still straight and safety is original.
What would be a reasonable order of magnitude price for bending or cutting and welding the bolt handle, switching to a horizontal safety, and drilling and tapping for scope mounts? I realize inletting may need to be done for the bolt handle.
This is not gonna be a great custom rifle. I'm more interested in good workmanship than artestry.
Posts: 37 | Location: Virginia Beach, VA | Registered: 15 June 2004
Personaly I would not spend a dime on a spanish mauser.
Posts: 8346 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001
Shrink .. I handed my GS a similar project a few years ago .. 8x57 Mauser military barrelled action,.. had the barrell turned down an cut off, bolt altered to a Manlicker style and jeweled ( to clean up pitting) ,timney trigger, everything got a new blue job, drilled and tapped for scope, rings and scope mounted, new safety,and then inletted full stock into beautiful walnut with a hard rubber butt plate... finishing the stock was my job (I like working up wood)..total $1,200 - took him about a year.. the baby shoots like a dream and weighs a little less than 8 pounds with scope (Leupold 3-9x) .. I think this was a reasonable price, and I have exactally what I was looking for... I realize that this isn't exactally answering your question, I guess what I am saying is, get done what you want as you would like it, find the guy that will do what you want, (as one of our posters says; "life is too short to hunt with an ugly gun") and if the GS is good he will be fair with his charges (fair to you and to him).. that makes it worth it..don't battle for cheap, because that is what you will get and it will come back to haunt you someday.. mpb
Posts: 45 | Location: NorthCentral PA - USA | Registered: 23 April 2004
I am NOT familiar with a 1909 Spanish Mauser... is it the M95 type, or a 98? If a 98, it is worth the work. The M95 types don't justify a lot of expense.
If at all possible, have the bolt handle altered by forging, rather than cutting and welding. I know a lot were done by cutting and welding, and most are OK, but I have also seen a numer in which the handle weld broke, leaving a handleless bolt to be re-welded!
If you only get the handle bent or forged, you end up with a short handle. Get a new one welded on! A replacement side swing safety is $95, a new bolt handle welded on and polished runs $65 with the cutout done to the action.
Posts: 5506 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002
If at all possible, have the bolt handle altered by forging, rather than cutting and welding. I know a lot were done by cutting and welding, and most are OK, but I have also seen a numer in which the handle weld broke, leaving a handleless bolt to be re-welded!
And I've seen a number of forged handles that are too short and stubby to be of any practical use or are ugly as sin. There are some nice ones too. The key is to use someone that knows what they are doing either welding or forging. I've welded a couple dozen handles and none have ever come off nor will they. A good welded handle offers you choices you cannot get by forging.
Posts: 4861 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002
The bolt handle shank can be lengthened during forging, but I agree, it must be done by someone who knows how!! But yes, it is easy to end up with a short handle by the forging method. It is not NECESSARY to end up with a short handle!
Bending it may be the less expensive alternative, Ive got an M48 with a bent bolt and it doesnt bother me. What would bother me is dumping a fortune into a $150.00 gun and to not see a respective increase in its value.
I think you should keep the gun as it is for the most part and look around for a good buy on something similar to what you want with the changes already made. Chances are you can find a good M-98 already altered for as much or less than what it would cost to alter the one you have, and with the 98 youll end up with a better action to boot.
Posts: 10158 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001
I appreciate the ideas. I want the 7X57, and in my book the '93 action is perfectly acceptable for this cartridge. I agree I don't want to put megabucks into it, that's the reason for my question. I just want it suitable for scope mounting cause my eyes aren't what they were, and the scope is much easier for me. It's necessary for anything beyond about 100 yds anyway.
I see no point in getting a '98 just to rebarrel it to 7mm. I don't plan to re-sell this one, but use it. I want to get it to the point that I can use it easily.
Posts: 37 | Location: Virginia Beach, VA | Registered: 15 June 2004
The Shrink, The 93 action is suitable for the 7X57 but the use of actions like that is also why the 7X57 is loaded weak in factory rounds. Just keep that in mind when you reload.
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001
The Shrink, Per customstox comments. Hear! Hear! The few of these that I bothered to check for carbon content,into the 1916 version, had between 18 and 22 points of carbon in the steel as opposed to the 27 to 32 points for the Mauser '98 made to spec. Most hardening of these in the Spanish arsenals was a lick and a promise- but made anticipating ammo THEY used. Do take care!
I'd use a b-square scout mount that goes on the rear scope base. That will forego the need for d/t and the safety change.
I'd expect to pay $50-60 for the labor and handle cost for a re-weld, d/t runs $10-15 per hole so $40-60, but you can get your own jig for about $30 from Midway. The safety will run $20-30 plus about $30 to fit it. So you are looking at $150-200 for the work. Simply not worth it.
I have done that work myself on a few 93-95 actions, and it really isn't that difficult, nor does it require extensive tools, escepting the welder. I'd invest in the tools and tackle the work myself.
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001
Quote: I'd use a b-square scout mount that goes on the rear scope base. That will forego the need for d/t and the safety change.
What he said!
Ive got a '93 Spanish Mauser. I think theyre fine as long as you appreciate them for what they are and dont try to make it a '98. You should shop around and see what kind of deal you can get. I consider myself lucky to have found a seasoned smith with very good prices. They are rare, but can be found. I believe he charged me about $50.00 to drill and tap for scope bases and bend a bolt handle the last time I had it done. The low scope safteys I do myself, theyre fairly eaisy to do.
G-luck!
Posts: 10158 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001
Well, let's see. I've got a drill press that's not square, numbered drill bits, no taps or dies, no jig. I have never welded and wouldn't start on a project like this. I have tapped a few holes in brass and iron, so I guess I do have a couple of taps, but no set. Would you still recommend I get the jig and try? Remember, I'm a psychologist who has done a little woodwork, not a machineist!
How much of a job is it to install the safety, and what is involved? Any tooling, or is it disassemble, install, and re-assemble the bolt?
I haven't checked, is Midway's price better than Brownell's for the jig?
Posts: 37 | Location: Virginia Beach, VA | Registered: 15 June 2004
Quote: Well, let's see. I've got a drill press that's not square, numbered drill bits, no taps or dies, no jig. I have never welded and wouldn't start on a project like this. I have tapped a few holes in brass and iron, so I guess I do have a couple of taps, but no set. Would you still recommend I get the jig and try? Remember, I'm a psychologist who has done a little woodwork, not a machineist!
How much of a job is it to install the safety, and what is involved? Any tooling, or is it disassemble, install, and re-assemble the bolt?
I haven't checked, is Midway's price better than Brownell's for the jig?
First, square your drill press. Second, as I recall the jig comes with the right drill and tap. The Midway jig is much cheaper than the Brownells jig. Get and 1/8" dia carbide burr to cut throuh the case hardening first, I like the cylindrical burrs with the rounded end as they are handy for many tasks. It will fit in one of the drill bushings that come with the jig.
I've used the Dayton traister 2 position safeties from Brownells, something like $10-12. A cut off wheel from a moto-tool is all that is needed to fit it. Actually a hacksaw and a jewelers file would work as well. All you do is cut a small notch in the bolt shroud. This isn't a super critical cut, just to provide clearance for the travel of the safety.
The beuaty of a mauser is no special equipment is required to disasemble the bolt. Close the bolt, put the safety on the middle position, the retract and remove the bolt from the action. Unscrew the striker assembly from the bolt. Press the firing pin against a hard surface until you can make a quarter turn on the sear piece on the back of the firing pin. Slowly let off spring pressure. Remove the safety lever.
As I recall the safety has instructions on fitting it. Reverse procedure for re-assembly.
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001
