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Buttplates for skeletonizing
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Picture of Evan K.
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I'd like to learn how to fit a skeletonized buttplate and grip cap to a stock, but also want to skeletonize the hardware too. Any suggestions on cheap buttplates and/or caps to practice with? I don't want to tear up something nice/spendy just getting started.

I appreciate any suggestions- thanks!


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Posts: 776 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 05 September 2006Reply With Quote
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If you had some photos that would tell you about all you need. You can scribe the outside shape from the wood .The scribe the inside by using a two point scribe set for 3/16" to 1/4". Make a simple shape to form an extension to the screw hole .
 
Posts: 7636 | Registered: 10 October 2002Reply With Quote
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1st learn how to fit a neidner butplate once you can do that it is more or less leaving the middle portion out and checkering it
 
Posts: 13466 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Track of the Wolf English Buttplate

This one will be about as good as it gets for building a skeleton plate.

Like Butch said, if you can inlet a Neidner style plate, you can inlet a skeleton one.

dave
 
Posts: 1120 | Location: Eastern Oregon | Registered: 02 December 2007Reply With Quote
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I wouldn't use a checkered buttplate to make a skeleton plate.


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Posts: 6205 | Location: Cascade, MT | Registered: 12 February 2002Reply With Quote
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I've often thought of the same thing, and would like to try it on a 1903 Springfield buttplate. These can be had on ebay for $10-20 or so. They are a bit wide, but could easily be shaped to a more streamlined profile.

First thing I would do is to heat and bend the reverse bent toe into a more traditional crescent shape to disguise the military origins.

I'm also intrigued with what might be done with the tang at the heel... lots of material there for a cloverleaf, fluer de leis, or an arrowhead shape.

Or just get a chunk of steel and create one from scratch.

Let us know what you decide, and post photos!
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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Evan,CSMC has a solid buttplate casting for $30. Lots of metal to play with and thick enough to machine into a skeleton buttplate. Suggestion....make a holding fixture the buttplate attaches to for machining.


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Posts: 311 | Location: Tygh Valley, OR | Registered: 05 November 2010Reply With Quote
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Picture of Evan K.
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I appreciate the replies- thanks all.

quote:
Originally posted by Dennis Earl Smith:
Evan,CSMC has a solid buttplate casting for $30. Lots of metal to play with and thick enough to machine into a skeleton buttplate. Suggestion....make a holding fixture the buttplate attaches to for machining.


Dennis I found that buttplate and it looks ideal. I thought about cutting into an checkered steel buttplate but would rather use a plain one. Thanks for the suggestions.

quote:
Originally posted by ssdave:
Track of the Wolf English Buttplate

This one will be about as good as it gets for building a skeleton plate.

Like Butch said, if you can inlet a Neidner style plate, you can inlet a skeleton one.

dave


Dave even if I don't cut it up, I do like the looks of that buttplate- thanks for the link.

I've inletted a few Winchester 70-style buttplates and am working on a Neidner now and am getting more comfortable with them. I've kept Dave Wesbrook's book out and it has been very helpful. I plan on using his instructions for skeletonizing the buttplate too.


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Posts: 776 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 05 September 2006Reply With Quote
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I did this to a solid McFarland plate http://www.brownells.com/rifle...plate-prod24689.aspx


Von Gruff.

http://www.vongruffknives.com/

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Posts: 2693 | Location: South Otago New Zealand. | Registered: 08 February 2009Reply With Quote
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Take a look at these which I made away back. I use a block of steel forms like the inside of a butt plate and rough in the 1/8 in. cold roll steel with a heat and forge to shape. After these are filed to shape I would use a carbide round hack saw blade to rough out the inside. There are only a couple of the rifles out there somewhere as they were a request from a customer in 1972. The two piece toe and heal pieces are easer to make and look good on a classic rifle.




 
Posts: 965 | Location: Texas | Registered: 19 May 2004Reply With Quote
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If you are going to skeletonize it anyway, grind the checkering off. The Track of the Wolf plates are plenty thick for that.
 
Posts: 1483 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 28 January 2011Reply With Quote
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I would suggest you inlet a skeleton grip cap onto a block of walnut. Repeat until you can do it without a gap. Then, move on to a skeleton buttplate.
A Dakota skeleton grip cap (Brownell's) is pretty cheap. Dakota also makes a 2 screw solid grip cap that would work well for skeletonizing.
 
Posts: 175 | Registered: 08 December 2007Reply With Quote
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Von Gruff and Les, wow those look great! The rifles they're attached to aren't bad either, thanks for sharing. I appreciate the additional info Les, and in-progress photos.

Thanks for the cap suggestions Tommyhawk. The Dakota hardware does look good, I like their swivel studs too.


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Posts: 776 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 05 September 2006Reply With Quote
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