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I'd like to learn how to fit a skeletonized buttplate and grip cap to a stock, but also want to skeletonize the hardware too. Any suggestions on cheap buttplates and/or caps to practice with? I don't want to tear up something nice/spendy just getting started. I appreciate any suggestions- thanks! "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." | ||
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If you had some photos that would tell you about all you need. You can scribe the outside shape from the wood .The scribe the inside by using a two point scribe set for 3/16" to 1/4". Make a simple shape to form an extension to the screw hole . | |||
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1st learn how to fit a neidner butplate once you can do that it is more or less leaving the middle portion out and checkering it | |||
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Track of the Wolf English Buttplate This one will be about as good as it gets for building a skeleton plate. Like Butch said, if you can inlet a Neidner style plate, you can inlet a skeleton one. dave | |||
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I wouldn't use a checkered buttplate to make a skeleton plate. ______________________ Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else. | |||
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I've often thought of the same thing, and would like to try it on a 1903 Springfield buttplate. These can be had on ebay for $10-20 or so. They are a bit wide, but could easily be shaped to a more streamlined profile. First thing I would do is to heat and bend the reverse bent toe into a more traditional crescent shape to disguise the military origins. I'm also intrigued with what might be done with the tang at the heel... lots of material there for a cloverleaf, fluer de leis, or an arrowhead shape. Or just get a chunk of steel and create one from scratch. Let us know what you decide, and post photos! | |||
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Evan,CSMC has a solid buttplate casting for $30. Lots of metal to play with and thick enough to machine into a skeleton buttplate. Suggestion....make a holding fixture the buttplate attaches to for machining. Dennis Earl Smith Professional Member ACGG Benefactor Life NRA Life NAHC | |||
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I appreciate the replies- thanks all.
Dennis I found that buttplate and it looks ideal. I thought about cutting into an checkered steel buttplate but would rather use a plain one. Thanks for the suggestions.
Dave even if I don't cut it up, I do like the looks of that buttplate- thanks for the link. I've inletted a few Winchester 70-style buttplates and am working on a Neidner now and am getting more comfortable with them. I've kept Dave Wesbrook's book out and it has been very helpful. I plan on using his instructions for skeletonizing the buttplate too. "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." | |||
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Take a look at these which I made away back. I use a block of steel forms like the inside of a butt plate and rough in the 1/8 in. cold roll steel with a heat and forge to shape. After these are filed to shape I would use a carbide round hack saw blade to rough out the inside. There are only a couple of the rifles out there somewhere as they were a request from a customer in 1972. The two piece toe and heal pieces are easer to make and look good on a classic rifle. | |||
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If you are going to skeletonize it anyway, grind the checkering off. The Track of the Wolf plates are plenty thick for that. | |||
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I would suggest you inlet a skeleton grip cap onto a block of walnut. Repeat until you can do it without a gap. Then, move on to a skeleton buttplate. A Dakota skeleton grip cap (Brownell's) is pretty cheap. Dakota also makes a 2 screw solid grip cap that would work well for skeletonizing. | |||
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Von Gruff and Les, wow those look great! The rifles they're attached to aren't bad either, thanks for sharing. I appreciate the additional info Les, and in-progress photos. Thanks for the cap suggestions Tommyhawk. The Dakota hardware does look good, I like their swivel studs too. "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." | |||
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