Is there a easy and cheap way to lighten up a 911 colt trigger pull?

I assume you mean 1911 ! While there are spring sets avilable it's much better and safer to do it properly as there are various aspects involved and it depends on which 1911 also.If you are mechanically inclined there are good books available to teach you how ! Smooth is more important than light and it must be reliable and safe.

One of the best tutorials on this is in one of Brownell's Gunsmith Kinks books...I think number III but I'm not positive.

Yes im sorry I ment the 1911 colt gov. 70 first gen. I have a 5 pound pull with creep.

Well, for a carry gun between 4 and 5 pounds is right. You can clean up a lot of creep by "boosting". With the pistol unloaded cock the hammer and with one hand push forward on the back of the hammer and then pull the trigger. Doing that a dozen times or so often cleans up creep.

Hey Daveo, The Second best thing about the Govt Model is the design allows almost anyone to be able to work on it. John Browning was such a genius that it is still an amazing Design. Of course the Best thing about them is how decisive they are when the situation is bad.

For me, the easiest way to go about the whole thing is to go to a Gun Show and pick up one extra Sear Spring and an extra Sear. That way I can swap them into the pistol and make sure they still allow everything to operate perfectly. I used to get all my 1911 Parts from:

ACCUR-TUNE
529 S. Main St.
POB 190
Belton, SC 29627
(803) 338-5695 Call between 7Pm-9PM Mon-Fri

That was before the internet, so I don't know if they are still in business or not. Their Parts Catalog had an Exploded View of a 1911 on the front back then which was well worth the cost - $No Charge$.

If they are still in business, get some Recoil Buffers and a Variable Rate Recoil Spring Kit while you are ordering. The Buffers should go in the pistol regardless of what else you do. The different Weight Recoil Springs allow you to shoot Down-Loads and still properly function the pistol.
-----

Save the "Original" Spring and Sear as a Master Set, because you know how they work. Take a Marks-A-Lot and put a Dot of the Ink on the master Spring and Master Sear. Or if you think you will rub it off, put a tiny Witness Mark of some type on both. You DO NOT want to get the Masters mixed-up with the working Sets.
-----

It should be obvious which portion of the Spring causes the Hammer to Fire as you take the pistol apart. If it is not obvious, then it is best to just forget all I'm whamming in and simply take it to a Gun Smith. But if you do recognize which "Finger" of the Spring it is, you can adjust it a bit. Doesn't take much and you can always move it back "if" you don't gorilla-arm it (over-bend it) which is unlikely if you do just a minor adjustment at a time.

Before you ever make the first Sear Spring Adjustment, you can lay the Sear Spring on it's side atop a sheet of small grid Graph Paper and take a Digital Shot of it. Now you can always get it back very close to where it is at the beginning.

Second, you can polish the Sear. Just use a Hard Arkansas stone like you would use on a pocket knife(after it is sharp) to remove any minute burrs. The trick is to keep the Sear Angle the same as it was when you start. A bit too much polishing at the wrong angle can turn it into a Full Auto pistol. Then you have to either start over with a new Sear or change the Angle back. That is why I recommend having an extra Sear before you start.
-----

Once you have Slightly Adjusted the Sear Spring and/or Polished the Sear - reassemble the pistol. Dry Fire it to verify the difference. If you can't detect a difference, put the "Master Set" back in for a comparison. If it isn't enough, keep adjusting the Spring on the Working Set until it has a Release you like.
-----

Most importantly is the Initial Firing after making any adjustments. Always start with only "one cartridge". If it goes well, then go to "two cartridges". When you go to "two" you want to make sure it has not gone Full Auto.
-----

The more you use and fine tune the 1911 pistol, the easier it is to understand the genius of the Design.

PS: If it helps at all, remember that picking up the Cases is a great exercise!

one more little trick - replace the hammer with a gold cup one. They are made a bit different and whie cocked go slightly over center so the pull is lessened