I have a Savage 112 that is chambered in 7mm STW that shoots sub 1/4 M.O.A. and likes Barnes X bullets if you can believe that. The rifle has accounted for numerous whitetails, coyotes, and crows when things get slow and up until now, wore a 10x Leupold Mark 4. This week I mounted a Burris Signature 8x-32x on the rifle and headed out to the bench. I installed the bore sighter and with the scope's elevation adjustment toped out, the reticle is still eight inches low. I decided by bore sighter was defective and shot one round to confirm. And sure enough it was 9.2 inches low at 100 yards. I suspected the scope because the rifle, bases, and rings were all working fine with the Leupold. Then I read the specs on the scope to learn that it only has 22"s of elevation adjustment. I never thought there would be an issue until learning that. The Leupold had 75 inches of adjustment and could be dialed in well past one thousand yards. Has anyone ran into this problem before. I am attaching pics so that you may see how it is mounted.

Joe

Maybe the Leupold was also pointing low but you didn't notice it because you were able to crank in enough elevation to compensate. It just seemed to be OK.

Try centering each scope optically, then putting them in the rings and see if they both indeed point to the same place.

Ray

or if you still have the leupold, look in from the front and see how far the adjustments are cranked. similarly, count the clicks until you are all the way up (or down) and then compare with the total number of clicks and then the clicks from center to reveal how far you had adjusted the leupold.

I personally, with the limited info provided, would try a different set of rings, or at least try switching the front one to the back. 22" of adjustment should be plenty if the rings and bases are right. I think the Leupold just "let you get away" with it.

Try the scope on another rifle and see if you have the same problem. It could be the scope, but I would doubt it.

I reccomending getting Burris Signature rings and a full set of inserts. Thta will let you get your reticle back to very close to the center of its adjustment range, both vertically and horizontally. You can see the details of the system on Burris' web site.

I had virtually the same experience when switching from a BSA to a Sightron scope.

So I'll second Marc Stokeld's recommendation.

I used two pairs of the .020" inserts. One pair raised the rear of the scope, the second pair went into the front rings. To lower them.

I found the new setup close to the optical zero of the scope at 100 yards, and still gave me enough adjustment to zero in at 600 yards using relatively slow moving 6.5x55 bullets.

Unfortunately, the inserts are sold only as pairs--one plus, and one minus--and it may take some experimentation to find out which inserts you need. They're sold in .005", .010", and .020" sizes.

I'm lucky enough to work for a rifle smith who has the Burris "Gunsmith" set.

Still, I'd wager you'll do okay with the .020" inserts.

flaco

Thanks gents, Burris signature rings are on the way!

Joe

Hey Joe.
For what it is worth, I had the very same problem only with a Weaver scope. Burris rings solved the problem nicely.

After remounting the mark 4 onto the rifle and taking back out to the bench I discovered that it was 20 inches from center to be shot in at 100 yards. I called Warne about the bases on the rifle and they appear to be within spec so I'm thinking the action must be some what out of spec. Midway had the Signature Zee rings in stock and I order the "kit" of inserts just to have some extras. So sometime next week we'll head back out to see if the .020 inserts do the trick. I'm betting they will. Thanks for all the input.

Joe

There is a very, very large vairance in rings, bases, and recievers. They could very well be within Warne spec. When you do enough scope mounting you see how hosed up stuff really is. No way for you to figure out which one is out of whack, and likely it is a combination anyway. The Burris Signatures take care of that.

If it were me before I bought new rings I would swap the rings that are currently on it from front to back. If there is a variation in ring heighth (slightly mis matched) this may take care of it.
Just a thought.

If your ring spacing is about 6 inches, then the rear would only have to be shimmed up .0158 inches (X/.5"= 9.5/300). If you want to be in the middle of the elevation range it would be a shim of 0.034".

Sheesh, Chic-

You may not be able to build a duplicator, but you know the math.

I just tried some inserts.

Anyway, am I right in thinking the combination I used is pretty close to your calculation?

The rear insert raised the scope by .020", but... by using an insert in the front ring, I lowered the front by .020" also.

flaco