Hi. I'd like some info regarding soldering front sight ramps on barrels.
I've heard this may cause erratic accuracy, or some odd problem. Is this true?
What sort of solder should be used?
Should the barrel be wrapped in wet rags just beyound the area being heated?
What is a good way to determine that the sights are square on top with out some sort of jig or whatever?
Now, what about soldering a rear sight... What should be done different?
Any other info will be appreciated. Thanks. ~~~Suluuq

I would not tackle the job without a jig, or at least a pair of V blocks.

My way is to use a ramp or base with screw holes. I drill and tap just as though I were going to use screws to secure although I will settle for two threads of depth. Install ramp or base, scribe around it and clean off bluing inside scribe marks. Clean off bluing on bottom of what you are soldering on, flux and tin with Brownell's Hi-Force 44 or equivalent. Flux the spot you cleaned on the barrel. Put some anti-scale compound in the bore, just to be safe.

Assemble with at least one screw and put a spring clamp on it. You will likely have to shorten the screw. Clamp the barreled action UPSIDE DOWN in a padded vise. Apply heat, mostly to the part being soldered on. I use an acetylene torch with very small flame and a very gentle touch. I rely on spillover heat and conduction to get the barrel proper hot enough. Bugger a ramp or base and I can afford another. I ain't taking chances on the barrel.

When the solder flows, I apply a little more through the unused screw hole if I have one.

Let cool and clean up.

Now wait for the barrage of posts telling me that I am doing it all wrong. Screw 'em. This has worked for me for a couple of hundred jobs.

What he said.

I do the same with quarter ribs, rear sights, sling mounts, and some scope mounts. I usually drill and bottom a .125 hole and use a piece of 1/8 brass rod as a locator instead of the screw. Other wise-----it works for me too!

I use Sta-Bright wire and flux.

The way I line up sights is with a 12 inch straight edge laid across a block that indexes off the lug raceways in the receiver and another straight edge across the part I'm mounting. If it has scope mounts, mounted true, they're great to use for the index surface. Half a drop of super glue and attach the straight edge and then adjust the sight so the edges match up when sighting across them.

A wave of the torch breaks the super glue bond.

Thanks for the info. ~~~Suluuq