Can someone explain to me what rust bluing is, how it is done & how it compares to other forms of blueing? Also, how does it compare cost wise for a typical barreled action?

Do a search on here its been discussed many times.

I can't give a technical/scintific explantion, but it is basicly turning rust into black oxide. I think. Any way you induce rust with a solution boil the part then card off the black stuff left over. this is done severel times.

It is then part of the metal not a coating like hot blue is.

There are some hot blue methods that people clame to be close to the same wear caricterstics or as good as rust blue but I think most people agree as far as blue goes rust blue is supior to hot blue in durability.

I don't think you can get a super high gloss rust blue so if you want the look of say a Weatherby then rust blue probably is not what you want.

It will coast at least twice as much as a hot blue. It takes a lot of prep work and time. Start thinking in the $400+ range.

While we are on the subject, can rust blue be successfully applied over existing rust blue? Or does the whole finish have to be removed and started over?

I'm sure the right way is to start all over but for me, that's like actually taking the time to read assembly directions....unmanly at the least.

I have been able to rust blue over existing rust blue and also over hot blueing. I frosted the hot blue with a bead blaster to match the white steel and they look identical under full sun.

Hot blue is quicker, and the finish is a personal like or dislike! Personally I like the rust blue, or better called "black"! This is the only type of blue that can be applied to soldered double barrels. The hot blue is costic, and will destroy a pair of double barrels. The rust blueing, or blacking is done in a humidity box with heat, and requires days to set, and is very time consuming, requireing skill not every smith has! It costs more because of the time/skill involved. I don't think it wears any better than hot blue, but IMO, looks a lot better. I'm one who cannot stand the wet look blueing that comes on many, so-called "upscale", guady bolt rifles!

This thread on Doubleguns has some excellent information and advise on rust blueing.

http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=...&page=1&nt=2&fpart=1

Thank you all for the information. Very informative. I have another custom mauser in the works and I am considering rust blueing.

I've had my last 3 customs rust blued. The difference is amazing. I think it's well worth the extra $200 it costs over a hot tank blue job. For one thing the color is just a lot more uniform on a rust blued rifle. Compare the two below. The bottom one was tank blued. It has blue streaks that run vertical on the action and the barrel and action are two different shades. It looks good, but not as good as the top that was rust blued.

Terry

Jim Baiar of Half Moon Rifle Shop puts out a real nice little booklet on Rust Bluing. I don't know if he sells the booklet or not as I got mine when I bought my bottle of Gun Goddess from him.

quote:

Originally posted by bluetick:
I don't think you can get a super high gloss rust blue so if you want the look of say a Weatherby then rust blue probably is not what you want.

Actually, you can, but I gather it's something of an art. A number of the best English makers send their metal finish work out rather than doing it in house. Purdey uses Johnson's Barrel Browners for barrel blacking (rust blue), and the barrel finish on current Purdeys is nothing if not high gloss.
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"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."

Terry,

I hate to be blunt, but hot blueing is one of the easiest bluing processes to get right. I would submit that the streaks in the hot blue are due to poor prep, bluing procedure, or old salts. I would return that metalwork and demand it be redone.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill Soverns:
Terry,

I hate to be blunt, but hot blueing is one of the easiest bluing processes to get right. I would submit that the streaks in the hot blue are due to poor prep, bluing procedure, or old salts. I would return that metalwork and demand it be redone.

Well, I won't argue that point but I will say this. Out of the last 4 rifles I've had hot blued 3 of them came back with less than stellar finishes. #1 went to Hot Flash rebluing and came back about perfect. It was a high polish blue and you could tell they took pride in their work. #2 was done locally and took a very long time. It was a matte finish on a M70 and looked very nice. The only problem is if you sneeze on the rifle some of the finish comes off. I didn't know this until hunting season and by then it was too late to return it. It's on it's 6th year now and needs to be reblued again. #3 was an old beater and was blued by E. R. Shaw. Basically it turned out rough but Shaw did it so I didn't expect much better than I got. junk in, junk out. What can I say. #4 is what you see in the picture. It's a problem that I seem to only get with getting old Mausers blued. The handle around where it was welded never seems to look right and a lot of times the barrel and the action are a slightly different shade. They couldn't get right the 1st time so I saw no need in returning it.

Now, out of the last 3 I've had rust blued they all came back without any issues what so ever. The color is uniform on all of them and they just look much better than even the best hot blue job I've ever gotten. These are just my own experiences.

Terry

quote:

Originally posted by TC1:
I've had my last 3 customs rust blued. The difference is amazing. I think it's well worth the extra $200 it costs over a hot tank blue job. For one thing the color is just a lot more uniform on a rust blued rifle. Compare the two below. The bottom one was tank blued. It has blue streaks that run vertical on the action and the barrel and action are two different shades. It looks good, but not as good as the top that was rust blued.

Terry

TC1

I absolutely LOVE your 338-06 mauser on top. It is along the lines of a custom 7x57 I am having done right now. ....in fact I plan on using a very similar checkering patern. I will also be having a half octagon, half round barrel made for it. It is the project I am considering the rust blueing for.

That rifle turned out nice. It's just a bunch of parts I picked up here and there, but the end result was surprising to say the least. Bill Soverens is working on one for me now that I think will top it in the looks department.

Terry

I like the look of the hot-blue, bottom one. The motley blue has character, and matches the colour case hardened rings. Nice wood too.

Other one looks a bit flat,black, and,um boring.