I "borrowed" this picture from another discussion because I didn't want to divert that topic. This is a different question about the style and appearance of a bolt handle very close to the appearance of this one.

I want to know what you think of this handle.

To focus the issue, let's make a few assumptions. Namely, that it is installed perfectly, with no issues of it being welded on correctly, and aligned properly overall and at the root, and there are no inletting issues with the stock. This is a question about style, and function, not whether it's done correctly.

Also, I'm not limiting the installation to a target rifle, Remington or other, but maybe on a Mauser. I know this particular handle is designed to go on a bolt like the Remington, but it could be easily modified to fit on the stub of a cut-off Mauser bolt too.

I know you guys like the traditional Mausers bolt handles, so is this too radical for you?
Thanks, KB



Here it's shown on a BR action.

Since you are asking for purely personal opinions I will give you one. I do not like the rearward cant I much prefer a perfectly straight handle. I also don't care for the flat on bottom of the knob. The relieved flat on top of handle is fine and I have most all of my Model 70 handles so ground. Given a preference though I would prefer the handle body be round in cross section with no flat. Again this is a personal opinion.

Dakota offers a cast swept handle that adapts/TIG welds to a Mauser bolt handle lug quite nicely.

The cross section of a Remington/PT&G style handle that is scalloped for scope ocular bell clearance will break easily if used on a controlled round feed action.

Dan,
Here's a picture of the cross section. I think that is what you are talking about. Looks substantial to me.



I've seen the Dakota handles, and they are good, but if you look close, they are swept back starting right at the root. The FN and MK X handles start out straight down, then are bent/swept back starting maybe 1/2 inch or more down. I want a handle that is similar to the FN, for example, curved back, rather than swept back, and without the double curve - back and up as on the FN. The scalloped part of the handle shown in the picture eliminates the need to arch up. Notice in the above picture, that the bottom of the handle is a straight line. The handle tapers, but is not bent or curved up, as an FN would be. Also, the underside of the root is milled flat, rather than rounded, which should be a little better in mating with the notch to cut in the receiver. I have seen one of these bolt handles, unattached, and it appeared to me that when in place, the notch for the handle would be shallower than it is on an FN or MK X. Which also means the notch in the wood would be shallower too.

It's hard to say in writing. Hope I'm clear enough.

Regards,
KB

Any style is possible.
Only dilema is,I won't heat/bend a handle that I've turned/milled to the profile desired.

dan,
Could you explain why you won't heat and bend?

I can't figure that one out on my own. I'm sure you have a good reason, but I would rather not speculate.
Thanks.

I don't like it.I think a bolt handle should be serious,not wimpy.I prefer a classic straight and solid bolt handle.

Shootaway, Yea, I know what you mean, and tend to agree. I'm just thinking outside the customary or what we are used to seeing for this discussion. It may be interesting to know that the diameter of the knob on the whimpy handle in the picture is actually slightly larger than the factory FN or MK X. The neck of the handle, just above the knob is slightly skinnier. Anyway the skinny neck, and the angle on the inside of the knob actually provide good grasp. This handle has an overall length that's a little longer compared to a standard length - such as an FN.

Also, the blank unattached handle I saw was straight, and didn't have the flat at the end of the knob, so the option of welding it on straight down was there, or bending it. This is not a cast handle, but milled.

Anyway, more food for thought and discussion.

A consideration...recoil...the swept back style can really smack your index finger on heavies...Lighter calibers...no problem..the M-70's stick out quite a way, so you have a little "air gap". The Weatherby on say a 460...there's just no way I personally can keep from getting hurt

Recoil - oh yea - humm - that's something I didn't consider. Incidentally, I've never shot anything bigger than a 458 WM, and don't intend to. I can find a use for a 458 WM, but anything more is useless for my purposes.

So, yea, a straight handle could be useful on a big kicker. I have a 375 H&H on a Winchester 70, and the handle doesn't hit my knuckles, but as I remember the back of the trigger guard hurts sometimes when I'm at the bench, but not in the woods. The Mod 70 handle has the offending non-classic style - as I remember - does it not?

Also, the rifles in 458 WM that I shot several times included a custom Ruger 77, and a Mark X, and a Parker Hale, all with factory swept back bolt handles, and I think I would have noticed if my knuckles or finger got bit. So, I don't share the same experience as others have claimed regarding the sore knuckle problem.

Anyway, just discussing. Thanks for the input and feed back.

Regards,
KB

The strength factor at the bolt root area mentioned doesn't look any less substantial than the handle on a P-14/M-17 bolt handle- they make a thinner-to-thicker transition also. I think you'd bust the brazing loose on the handle before the handle shank failed.

Other than that, two words:

Hershey, Pennsylvania

Sweet - tin can. Actually that hershey kiss shape allows the knob (and fingers) to be further away from the scope/receiver, but yet not create an overly long handle. To get the same clearance say with a typical oval or pear shape, the overall length will need to be a little longer, and extend below the top edge of the trigger guard.

I am no expert, and that's why I'm asking for informed opinions, but I don't see a strength factor with this handle at all.

Again, the handle is designed to be brazed, welded, soldered, glued, or whatever, on a bolt like the Rem 700, so there is an extended part that wraps around the bolt, with no stub like there is on a Mauser.

That extended wrap-around part could be cut off at the ledge, and shape the stub of the original handle to match the new one. The tig welding will be between the stub, and the back side of this handle, thus the shaping of the square edges of the outside at the root should be easier. Actually it seems to me that there will be no need to shape the outside square edges, just clean up the welding around the top, sides and bottom. Also, the picture shows how close the root of the handle is to the bolt of the 700, but it won't be that close on a Mauser. The typical clearance under the handle root will still be there, maybe a little more, and still clear the scope with room to spare. That's why I think the notch for the receiver and the wood can be shallower than what is typically seen for a MK X or FN.

Also, at the root, the bottom of this handle is milled flat, sort of horizontal V shaped, with the point of the V pointing out, so it will make a nice clean spot to mate up with the notch in the receiver.

KB

Gentle reader,
Everyone has different tastes in rifles and I think that is good. For that reason, I want to be very sensitive and put this in the most polite terms possible...

The thought of putting that bolt handle on a Mauser makes me want to vomit.

Truly yours,
Miss Manners

quote:

I want to know what you think of this handle.

I don't like anything about it. The shank is too small near the knob. The shape of the knob is enough to make the finest rifle look like a cutesy little toy.

I don't think you gain anything(length-wise) by flattening the bottom of the knob like that due to the angle. It does not make it appear shorter, only uglier.

JMHO

Jason

I have become fond of the Dakota handles.

The design of the flat on the end of PT&G bolt handles is simple-
Stolle bolt handles have the full round knobs.

Heating/Bending-
The reason I TIG weld handles instead of oxy-acet/gas weld them-TEMPER.

Butch,
Post a pic of your PE bolt handle.
KIFF/TALLEY/ACCU-TIG.

[URL= ]serious bolt handle-no nonsense[/URL] In a dangerous situation,this is the type of bolt handle I would want.

Hi:
If you knurled the hershey kiss and hollowed out the bottom, you would have better finger purchase. When using Leupold medium rings and Leupold one piece mount on Mausers, you do not require a significant scallop to clear the occular lense of most scopes.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
[URL= ]serious bolt handle-no nonsense[/URL] In a dangerous situation,this is the type of bolt handle I would want.

Shootaway,
Is that a 550 factory bolt that has been straightened, or a replacment welded on? That certainly has distinction, and just looks right and functional.

I have saved some borrowed pictures of bolt handles that I like. My favorite is this one, which I think is a factory Brno:


Here's another that I think is a Talley:


Remember, these are not my pictures, but I "borrowed" them because I like the style. Here's another:


I think the next two are Dakotas





KB

I personally don't like a swept back handle on a mauser.

Terry

quote:

Originally posted by ElCaballero:
I have become fond of the Dakota handles.

and that's a very fine example!

Ralph Martini made it for me.It may be a modified Talley.I recieved my old handle back in a Talley bolt handle plastic bag.I have a Talley bolt handle to compare it to.[URL= ]a[/URL]Here is my old one.[URL= ]cz bolt handle[/URL]

quote:

Originally posted by Kabluewy:

I think the next two are Dakotas


KB

This one's an older machined Talley. Not the pre shaped casting sold by Dakota. I don't think Talley makes that shape anymore.

There's some Ace gun porn in this thread, thanks.

James, I sent you a photo of the handle that Dans40xc installed on my Pierce-Remington clone. If you could post it I would appreciate it.
Butch

Butch
I forgot I had room on hunt 101 to post this pic.
Here's Butch's handle that Dans40xc welded.

The bolt does clear the scope. Thanks James.
Butch

I like you guys. Previously, once or twice I tried to get you going with bolt handle discussion and pictures, and my attempts were sort of dud. So, I see now that posting an ugly bolt handle will draw you out, so you can't resist.

Thanks, I'm in the mood for some good bolt action porn.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
[URL= ]serious bolt handle-no nonsense[/URL] In a dangerous situation,this is the type of bolt handle I would want.

I just did one of these for a client. He did not like the swept back handle on his CZ550 in 416 Rigby. I got a Talley and welded it on and he says he likes it. I also installed one of Ed Lapour's three position safeties on the same gun.

To my eye, the swept handles on the 550's** are girly- and on FN Mausers, also. Gimme a straight Oberndorf, no chaser.

** Cocking piece, too. Needs a 3-position (all cosmetics, they're fine rifles)

Here are various ones I own that are more or less indicative of my preference in bolt handle. One original factory Westley Richards Mauser is for comparison as is one forged handle on an 03 Springfield that was done on a shortened 03 by Les Womack who was well known for forged handles.

Do you prefer a clean bolt knob are one that is checkered?
Butch

I prefer checkered myself. Number of panels is irelevent as is with or without border.

Guys , Whats up with the Talley knobs? The one I recently got from midway had a round ball instead of the more pear shape like my other

Did I just get a bad, odd or reject Talley knob. I was going to send it back and just order another and see if I get a pear shaped

I think you got a bad one or the wrong one. I got a few recently from brownells and they were the same as always.
-Don

quote:

as is one forged handle on an 03 Springfield that was done on a shortened 03 by Les Womack who was well known for forged handles.

Question-

What is the shortened '03 chambered in?

Observation:

The handle is kind of Kraggish looking- I've always found the Krag style quite handsome.

I didn't mean to imply the action was shortened. It was the overall gun that was shortened. It is a stock remington 03 that has had the barrel shortened to 16" and the associated wood and metal shortened as well. The bolt handle has been forged low and a Mdl 70 style safety installed along with a Lyman Alaskan in Griffin & Howe side mount. Front sight is a higher sourdough blade in the original ramp which was re-installed on the shortened barrel. It's a 2 groove barrel and shoots a very good group with factory ammo. It was built or converted for a Gun Writer by Les Womack as a pack rifle to carry while Salmon fishing in Alaska. It is a truck gun par excellance.

Understood, thank you.

and:

quote:

It is a truck gun par excellance.

Damn right.