What is the best glue for repairing a split stock. The rifle is an old Winchester .22.

The split is at the rear and is only 3 or 4 inches long. It isn't structural.

Thanks,

John

Can you post a pic? I'm a big fan of the "super thin" superglues. I like to use "Zap" brand but any quality one should work. The trick is to go to a real hobby store to buy it, then you know you are getting a good product that hasn't sat on a shelf for a couple years.



One of the cool things about this particular adhesive is they include this tiny fishing-line diameter tube, so you can apply really tiny drops and also you can fit it deep into cracks too.

I've used two part clear epoxy paint to make such repairs. I mix it, then force blow it in the crack with an air compressor. I wrap the cracked stock with surgical tubling to hold it in place till the epoxy cures. Then sand the surface to finish the stock.

Don

I use Brownell's Acraglass gel glass bedding
compound. I would use this if I could get it in
the crack OK. If not, use a superglue type or
'zap'
Best Regards,
Tom

Whats wrong with elmers wood glue?

I've used it for stock repair for years.

Chad

Another vote for acraglass or other QUALITY clear epoxies and surgical tubing or large rubber bands to clamp the pieces. For deep cracks it can help to warm the part with a hair drier or heat gun first to help the adhesive to flow. Never thought of the compressed air idea! Any problems with creating bubbles?

Use a decent wood adhesive on wood !. Use acraglass for bedding purposes for which it was intended .

Franklin Tite Bond is all you need it's stronger than the wood it's self .Why people insist on trying to

reinvent the wheel escapes me . Do you buy special urethane tires for your Auto's ? or purchase standard rubber

tires !. Use appropriate products for their intended purposes as Chemist have done all the work for You .

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/titebond.html

If you thin the epoxy, which would be my choice, thin it with laquer thinner and then with an air hose, blow it into the crack. The thinner will evaporate leaving the epoxy to set up where it is needed.

I use the Accra glas RED for breaks. Its thin and will penetrate wood for a better grip. If the stock is split and not open, drill a hole from inside the action area directly into the split, full length of the split if possible. Fill the hole with epoxy/glue and use a wooden dowel slightly smaller than the diameter of the hole to push the glue down into the hole. Repeat pushing more glue into the hole until the glue appears along the split. Cut the dowel off to length and leave it in the hole to replace the wood lost from the drill hole. Clamp with your preferred method, wipe off the excess epoxy/glue on the outside and wait til dry. Epoxy gel is to thick for this type of repair and really is best left for bedding.

Jim ; Far be it for me to tell you your business as I know your work and it's TOP NOTCH !.

FYI ; With that being said one must be cautious when using Epoxies and modifying them either by mix ratio

or thinning . Lacquer thinner isn't a wise choice to use on several different brands of epoxy !.

It can greatly effect catalyst or hardener if you prefer , sometimes not allowing it to set and

in some cases turning it rubbery and useless . MEK or Acetone would be a better choice if thinning is absolutely

necessary . I've yet to find a wood in which one of the better brands of wood adhesives has failed

to be stronger than the wood it's self . If the wood it's self is to weak they make synthetic stocks .

Thanks for the suggestions. This was my grandfathers old gun so I might send it out to a pro.