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Gentleman, Have a pre 64 70, 24" std taper barrel. How much weight would I save with a glass stock over the std wood? Thinking of replacing it to save a little weight. Could I shave a pound off? FN in MT | ||
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It all depends how heavy your factory stock is. For a maximum weight saving you would have to use either the Brown Precision Kevlar Pounder or one of the MPI stocks, I have found them to be the lightest although there may be others. You might be able to take a pound off if the wood stock is over two pounds and your new stock is chosen carefully without a too heavy/thick recoil pad. My ,02 | |||
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I have done this with several REAL '70s, using Brown Kevlar and regular stocks; it lightens them up to just about the perfect point and the balance and handling is really improved. In my .338s, though, the recoil increased, but, I can live with that in order to spare my aged carcass the extra weight! | |||
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Mine is a .257 Roberts AI so recoil is of no concern. I didn't start this as a "lightest rifle" project but would just like to take a pound or so off if possible. That would make it tolerable. I curse the day I traded into my Wby Ultra Lt Weight! It has ruined me for anything much over seven pounds. Gettin' lazy in my old age. Have to look into the Brown stock. FN in MT | |||
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Frank, Some of the syn stocks are quite a bit lighter than wood. Lone wolf adventure has a summit stock that is about 20oz. I do not know what the MPI is but it light also but probably not that light. I think most standard syn stocks like the tupperware rem stocks weight about 2 pounds, with wood weighting about 2 1/2 if I'm correct. I do not know what the laminated wood stocks weigh but they can be made quite light also, but not sure how light. | |||
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You should be able to save about a pound on a normal walnut stock, considerably more over a laminated stock. Be careful though because some of the synthetics can be rather flimsy. I use McMillan, a very sturdy stock indeed. Best wishes. Cal - Montreal | |||
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Bansner is another option for a light weight, good quality synthetic for a pre-64 M70. As stated above Brown Precision also make good quality, light weight stocks for M70s. McMillan stocks are a tad heavier, although the Featherweight model is supposedly lighter - as light as the Brown Precision stocks, I don't know?? Injection molded stocks are usually quite heavy (though cheap). - mike | |||
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Quote: Hey Frank, Maybe one of these three Part#s could help you: 1. ULS256RR40 2. ULS7M8RR40 3. ULS308NR40 Take the (rag) M70 and swap it off for one of the above. (There is always a suc... make that somebody looking for a M70.) Shoot it until the barrel needs swapping and by then you can have another 257RobAI cranked into that excellent Weatherby U-Lt receiver, or you won't give a quack. One of my neighbors did it to me with his (#3 above) U-Lt. He also has a Tooley, but the U-Lt "weighed heavily" on my mind. Resolved the issue with a Trade and now I have a (#3 above)U-Lt also. Here, this will help you I'm sure on all the above: 24" #1 conture super fluted barrel, 5 3/4# total weight, 44" overall, 5+1, 13 5/8" length of pull, 3/4" drop at comb, 1 1/8" drop at heel. As my buddy(?) Dennis told me, "It feels like no other rifle in my shoulder! And I REALLY like the way it feels!" ... So, I do agree you can "lighten" that M70 a good bit. Just do it with a trade for another U-Lt. Did I mention 5 3/4# TOTAL WEIGHT!?!?! | |||
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Frank, take the stock off the "Bobs" and weigh it at the post office on their digital scale, then report back. Wood can vary quite a bit... you may be able to lose some weight off the rifle but I'd suspect one pound is out of the question. For comparison... A McMillan will generally go around 32-34 oz's A Borden Rimrock (painted) will go around 29 oz's A Bansner will go around 26 oz's A Brown Precision will go 24-26 oz's A Brown Precision "Pounder" will go 22 oz's *All weight's with a 1" pad and inletted for M70* | |||
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Very useful info, buddy, I have a few projects on the go and I can really use this, thanks. | |||
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Over at 24hourcampfire Jim F has all the data on the options including details like recoil pads. I would check in with him. Of the stocks I have weighed there is not a lot of difference between wood and most synthetic stocks at all until one gets into the Bansner UL catagory. The you can really take off a half pound or more. This does make a real difference in balance as well. Having just almost completed an MRC with a 26" tube in a Bansner I can assure you that it takes a lot more time and money to do it that way than a Kimber Montana. | |||
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I am sure it does, but, you cannot get a .338 Mag. in a Montana. I have used Mickys, Cliftons, Browns and Rimrocks on Pre-64s and carried them on foot, in very steep, rough country at elevation for days on end; I find a noticable difference in weight, even with my pairs of FWTS. I use for late season deer hunting. Plus, it is really wet here and so I am going to try Bansners next as the stability and weight issues are crucial to me. I even intend to restock my Dakota as the gorgeous hunk of English took a bad beating last fall in five days of rain and doghair Spruce. I love fine wood, but, it is just too costly now for serious hunting rifles, IMO. What cartridge is your MRC in? | |||
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Does Banser have a website? Thanks, Rob | |||
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Bansner Website - rifles and stocks - mike | |||
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Kute, My M1999 is a SS SA RH mag. It's barreled with a 26" .224" chambered for a wildcat I dreamed up long ago on a 6.5 RM case shortened to 2". When that barrel goes, which may not be long, I am weighing the options. The action was to be a fine custom in 270 WSM but I lost interest in the action and just put on that take off barrel and used up a stock that was laying around. Warning: The Bansner UL stock that I have was made for a M70 and it's not high enough to really sink the stack height of the MRC action and magazine in it. This project is not one of my better ideas. The points on the weight, balance and stabilty are valid however. It's almost worth it even if it's ugly. I may shoot the rifle today for the first time. It's gouging the brass when it feeds from the magazine. It seems to be a sharp edge on the chamber. This is a work in progress and not a finished rifle. Kimber has a limited line but enjoys a niche. | |||
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