19 August 2009, 09:13
lawndartWhat is the best welding stick??
For filling in small pits (non threatening to safety) on Mausers using the TIG welder.
Tanks
19 August 2009, 20:15
WestpacI use 1/16 inch ER70S2 rod for almost everything gun related.
20 August 2009, 04:24
tin canI've read in Kuhnhausen, and recall postings by Jack Belk, saying that pits couldn't be closed by welding on Mauser receivers because the surface carbon content is too high. Both recommended the drill/fill with a steel wire/peen over and file smooth method; then I see posted that the pits are indeed weldable.
Soooo... what's up with this?
Thanks.
20 August 2009, 04:31
Duane Wiebequote:
Originally posted by tin can:
I've read in Kuhnhausen, and recall postings by Jack Belk, saying that pits couldn't be closed by welding on Mauser receivers because the surface carbon content is too high. Both recommended the drill/fill with a steel wire/peen over and file smooth method; then I see posted that the pits are indeed weldable.
You may note that lawndart mentioned (non threatening) Good point! In the rear of the action, I see no problem with weld..and yes, they can be easily welded...but at the ring, two rules...never weld on the ring and never weld on the ring.
Soooo... what's up with this?
Thanks.
20 August 2009, 05:44
22WRFwell then, and excuse me Lawndart, how much metal can one take off on the front to get rid of pits?
20 August 2009, 05:53
ted thornParent metal is always the way to go
21 August 2009, 03:46
tin canquote:
Originally posted by ted thorn:
Parent metal is always the way to go
Lost me- specifics?
Thanks, & thanks to all.
21 August 2009, 04:53
Westpacquote:
Originally posted by tin can:
quote:
Originally posted by ted thorn:
Parent metal is always the way to go
Lost me- specifics?
Thanks, & thanks to all.
I think I understand him. I think he suggests using another Mauser action as a fill rod.

21 August 2009, 05:06
tin canSounds good; if I got it correctly, instead of a torch, I hold the donor action in my hand, and pee directly on a 440 line.
22 August 2009, 09:46
lawndartThanks for the answers guys.
Ya, safe area, drill out the hole just enough to make sure the metal is poifectly clean.
TIG in enough to fill it, the file or grind it level.
My instinct is to anneal all the metal first, make modifications and then have it CAREFULLY re-carburized/re-heatreated.
Then a final measurement and pass with the various tools to ensure things aren't too warped.
22 WRF, Just enough, not too much is the only answer that comes to mind.
Thanks Westpac; I think I inherited some of that from my adopted dad who died at age 59.
24 August 2009, 01:28
kcstottquote:
Originally posted by tin can:
quote:
Originally posted by ted thorn:
Parent metal is always the way to go
Lost me- specifics?
Thanks, & thanks to all.
Well that's well and good so long as you know for sure what the alloy is.