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Need Help, Rem 788 Trigger
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Picture of littlecanoe
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A relative brought in an older 788 in 22-250 that is a used keep sake from a deceased uncle. He uses the gun for varmint hunting and had an accidental firing the last time out at the range.

It seems that the accidental discharge happened after pulling the trigger with the safety engaged and then releasing the safety.

I was able to get the rifle to do this a couple times before taking the action out of the stock.

The trigger felt gummy and I could see a darker buildup inside the trigger housing. I sprayed it down good with break free and it now seems to be doing better as I couldn't reproduce the misfire and the mechanism isn't gummy feeling.

Any other ideas on what could cause this?

Is there a simple way to remove the trigger Mech. from this action? I've never taken one apart before.

Thanks for the help,
lc
 
Posts: 230 | Registered: 25 November 2005Reply With Quote
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I've removed triggers from Rem 580's years ago, and don't remember the exact details of removeal. The Rem 580 trigger is the same design as the 788. But, they aren't hard to remove. IIRC, there is a set screw in the front of the trigger that needs loosening, then knocking the holding pin out.
I have completely disassembled the triggers in the past too, but don't think you need to do that unless you want to. I think removing the trigger from the rifle then spraying brake cleaner inside of it to get the rest of the junk would do the job.

Don




 
Posts: 5798 | Registered: 10 July 2004Reply With Quote
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Hoppes #9 will run down the bore and action and accumulate in triggers. After it evaporates it leaves a waxy greasy goo that causes trigger malfunction. I have seen it with both 788s and 700s and one shotgun.
 
Posts: 9207 | Registered: 22 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of GunCat
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Hey neighbor! What part of south central Kentucky do you hail from?

The 788 trigger housing is aluminum. A build up of oxidization can cause the trigger and sear to bind (same as the lube/gunk build up that others have mentioned)

A disassemble, clean, and lube of the trigger assembly would be where I started on the problem.


Steve Rose
----------
Rose Action Sports, LLC
www.roseactionsports.com
 
Posts: 189 | Location: Western Kentucky | Registered: 02 November 2007Reply With Quote
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Picture of Toomany Tools
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As has been noted, the housing is aluminum which over time sets up galvanic corrosion caused by the differing electrical potentials of the steel parts and aluminum housing. Along with corrosion is the buildup of dirt and dried lubrications. Have someone who knows what they're doing completely disassemble the trigger, clean it and then set it up for safe function.


John Farner

If you haven't, please join the NRA!
 
Posts: 2949 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of littlecanoe
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Thanks guys,
Nice to know that I was on the right track. I thought so but wanted to confirm.
Hadn't made the connection with oxidation but it makes sense. There was definitely a nice build-up gumming things up.
 
Posts: 230 | Registered: 25 November 2005Reply With Quote
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I get a lot of the 788's in and the triggers are in the same condition.

First off Remington used some type of lube in the trigger units years ago. What I see is it has dried up and now looks like HONEY along with dust, and who knows what else.
I strip the unit down completely and soak overnight in lacquer thinner and take cotton swabs and make sure the inside is clean as well as the sear and trigger. Reassemble and install on the action.

The M700 triggers have the same problem.

Best is to find a good gunsmith, as if the housing is broken or parts lost you will have to buy a Timney to replace the old one.

Jim Wisner
Custom Metalsmith
 
Posts: 1497 | Location: Chehalis, Washington | Registered: 02 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Jim,
That's a great description of what was found inside. Unfortunately, someone boogered up the set screw in years past. Looks like they pinged the surrounding metal with a punch. I can't get a screw driver to bite without it torquing out of the slot.

Guncat: PM sent. Is the cat for UK?
 
Posts: 230 | Registered: 25 November 2005Reply With Quote
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When the factory set the trigger unit up they punched the metal at the edge of the hole and formed the metal into the screw slot. This was to stop the screw from backing off. It can be a ^&*()^ to get the screw out sometimes.

Worse case is to carefully drive the cross pin out with the screw still putting tension on the housing, just be real carefull when the pin moves out fron the stud and then binds as only one half of the housing is holding on. Then run the screw all the way thru and clean up the tapped hole to reinstall the screw.

For you old timers, do you remember when Weatherby and Remington in the 70's and early 80's used to put the little bottle or tube of Break Free in with the guns. Well I used Break Free for a number of years in the early 80's to protect my steel parts inventory. HOWEVER after about 4 to 6 years the damn stuff would turn brown and gummy. This is what I think Remington used to spray down the inside of these units. They where pushing that stuff to use as we were a repair station for them at the time.

But once they come up with the Rem Oil then most of the problems with gummy stuff in the trigger units went away.

Jim Wisner
Custom Metalsmith
 
Posts: 1497 | Location: Chehalis, Washington | Registered: 02 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks to all,

Got the assy apart and cleaned. In spite of spraying breakfree into the action it still didn't penetrate the thick build-up. Cleaned it all well, lubed with Rem oil and Reassembled. Works smooth and absolutely no dragging.

Never could get the screw to go one way or the other. Only managed a 1/4 turn or less. Fortunately the assy is very snug with just driving the pin back in.

Biggest question is how many parts should I have left over? Eeker
LOL and again a big THANKS!
 
Posts: 230 | Registered: 25 November 2005Reply With Quote
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