I stated a couple months ago that one could convert a '98 mauser to a .222. Someone emailed me and asked for instructions....well I finally found the book and here's the scoop. The book is "Introduction to Modern Gunsmithing" by Harold McFarland as published by Stackpole books. Copyright 1965.



I'll quote word for word from the book:







The bolt face recess is too large and the methods usually employed to bush the recess are not satisfactory. The usual modification makes a bushing and silver solders it in place. If enough heat is employed it can soften the bolt lugs. If not heated enough the bushing usually drops out.



The one successful method grinds the boltface off flat anbd smooth. A tiny mounted stone in a tool post grinder on the lathe then cuts a new recess to fit the small casehead.



The extractor hook will now be too far ahead and it will not engage the small rim. A piece of steel is silversoldered to the inside of the inner face of the extractor hook (see photo) to extend inward and toward the firing pin hole. This is beveled to form a new hook.



The firing pin must be shortened and the firing pin hole needs to be bushed for the smaller diameter firing pin. Drill and tap the firing pin hole 6-48 and sweat in a screw with soft solder and drill a new firing pin hole .070 and the firing pin is to be ground to .068



The magazine box can besubstituted with the magazine assy including the magazine box, follower and spring from a 722 remington.



The new barrel must have a step in the end to extend thru the receiver to the bolt face.

Rather than trying to redo the existing extractor.



I have on hand machined extractors for the FN 222.

I also have a couple of extractors in 22 Hornet.



They are set up for what FN did, as you explained in the the bolt face conversion. I did not find that I had to bush the pin hole though.



Jim Wisner

President

Wisner's Inc

Thanks Vapodog, I am the one that asked you about it. You did tell me it was McFarlands book and I finally found one. Amazon.com used books and a copy is on the way. Thanks for remembering. Also thanks Jim for your advice. I always enjoy your comments since they come from experience rather than some who have only talked about it. Jerry

I've never chambered a 98 mauser to any of the .222 family of cartridges. I far prefer the old Sako L461 when I can find them.....and now the Mini mauser action works well too.

I'd love to have a 98 mauser shortened and converted to 6 X 45 for Duiker, Steenbok, dik dik, etc....it would work well for animals up to the size of Springbok I think.

Both historic attempts to shorten a mauser so far have ended in the scrap pile but now that I have a new Tig welder I might try it again.....Blue...are you paying attention?

vapodog

The zastava mini mauser is what you should have I have seen some really nice 6X45 built on that action.

6X45 seems to be very popular in South Africa for this type of animals.

Cheers
/ JOHAN

Johan, my mini mausers are from Interarms several years ago. They required a little finess work to smooth them and remove some bugs but all in all they're really fine little actions for the .222 family. I have one in .223 and another in 6 X 45. The 6 X 45 has taken whitetails with no trouble at all. Strangely I used Hornady's 70 grain SX for the whitetails!!!

I admire the guys that make anything from the 22 hornet to the .416 Rigby on a m98 mauser but the world offers more than mausers IMO and I don't find military Mausers economical.

Vapodog

My ears are straight up and you bet I am paying attention. Let me know how you do, and show us all a photograph of that completed short action!!!!

Blue

I have a Mauser extractor blank, that I have not used yet, but I got it for building a .223:
http://www.brownells.com/
634-000-003
98 Custom Extractor