Gentlemen,
I purchased a Granite Arms .505 Gibbs at the Reno show from Mike Roden and should be receiving it in the next 30 days or so. It will be stocked in a synthetic stock but the more I think about it the more I am considering a wooden stock for "show" and the synthetic stock for "go"...if you know what I mean.

I would like to stock the gun in a traditional, simple "English" style with no ebony forend, etc.but with decent figure. For a really big bore like the Gibbs what wood would you suggest and are there any partcular recommendations you would make to keep the rifle from splitting etc. under the heavy recoil. Also any ideas in stock design to keep recoil tolerable? Thanks much!

russel, tip burns is building my .505 gibbs.... i'm planning on jon valicek to stock mine... after that beautiful job he did on your #1, he did my enfield in a laminate from boyds... i'll find a dark heavy straight grain for him to do....i thought about picking up a richards microfit, tip suggested that, as a base to work from....thats what he used on the .416 taylor he built for cindy garrison...

In real terms the 505 doesn't kick any harder than a 458 Lott so there really isn't anything special required in terms of wood structure. Buy a blank you like and add the normal stock bolt behind the magazine box. If your barrel has a recoil lug, you probably won't need a stock bolt in front of the magazine box but if you like the look, go for it.

Russell, do you know Don Dobbratz, in your own backyard (Telferner)? No better stockmaker anywhere. I agree with Harry, if you have a recoil lug on the underside of the barrel and it is properly bedded you shouldn't need any other crossbolts, which IMO are ugly.

You might know this already but here goes.

I'd go with a Turkish or English Walnut with a fairly straight grain flow through the grip and forend. Aside from that, there really isn't much more needed in the wood department. It can have great fiddle back and contrasting colors/mineral streaks. It can even get a bit wild in the butt stock as long as it flows correctly before it hits the grip area. Neither of which effect the strength of the wood much. Actually fiddle back most often comes from denser wood as it is the weight of the tree that compresses the wood in this fashion. A denser/heavier piece of wood helps reduce the felt recoil as well.

As for stock design, usually a stock with limited drop helps you feel less recoil as the gun pushes more than rotating about your shoulder and slapping you in the face. Something along the lines of the stock my father designed for the Kimber African but with nicer wood of course.

Kimber

At least this is what I think to be the right answers. I don't have PROOF. Stock designers greater than I have done it this way for many years. If anyone has differing ideas about this, I'd like to hear them and your reasoning, I'm always interested in learning.

Russell, here are my suggestions, based on what has worked for me on hard-kicking rifles (and I have several):

1. Straight butt stock, with minimal drop at comb and heel, just enough to permit the bolt to be cycled freely - directs recoil straight back into the shoulder and off of the face.

2. Fairly wide and rounded comb and a cheekpiece - protects the face.

3. Fairly deep and wide butt profile - spreads the recoil force over a wider area.

4. Good recoil pad, such as a Pachmayr Decelerator - for obvious reasons.

5. Double cross bolts.

6. Relieved tang. Very important!

7. Enough length of pull to keep your head more or less upright and your nose away from the thumb of your dominant hand - IMHO, about a quarter to a half inch or so more than you might otherwise want as your maximum for "handiness."

8. English walnut. Laid out as Trez describes above. Trez has a blank for sale in the AR Classifieds that I would buy right now if I were you!

And you NEED an ebony fore end tip on that stock! And 24 lpi, four paneled, point-patterned checkering! And a steel grip cap! And of course an oval, shadow-lined cheek piece, too!

These features will insure control, recoil reduction, stability and good looks to boot.

All IMHO, of course.

Thanks guys... knew this would be the place to post. Great ideas and what I am hearing is stay with the American classic styling instead of the English express.

Mike I will be shooting open sights so I will keep LOP at around 14.5".

Forrest, I know Don well however he has cut back on his stockmaking. His eyes have been bothering him for sometime now.

Trez,
Thanks for the info, I have seen your work and am very impressed!

Thanks for the complement. By the way, I don't know who MR is yet but here is the blank he is talking about. I wouldn't post this here but it has gone to the 4th or 5th page in the classifieds by now. I lowered the price to help with cash flow. The wood is worth the original amount, so it's a good deal if it's what you like.


#793 $1600 $1400 $1300 Shipped.... This one screams to be a BIG BORE!!! It has great grain flow/layout and fiddle back front to back to boot. Of course smaller calibers would have no problems with a particularly strong stock.

Yep. That's the one.

I wish I had a reason . . . or even an excuse!