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Leupold, Out of Adjustment Room, any ideas?
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I mounted a Leupold 1.75 x 6 VariX III on my Custom African Express Model 70 375 and found I was out of vertical adjustment with the shots hitting about 5 inches low. I have it mounted in Warne Premier Rings Medium height, which is really too high to be ideal.

On my prior model 70 I had the same problem and used a Zeiss Conquest 3x9 that gave me more Adjustment and corrected the problem.

I really like the scope/gun combination and don't want to pay for another Conquest, any ideas?

Thanks

Jim
 
Posts: 134 | Location: dallas,tx | Registered: 29 November 2003Reply With Quote
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Picture of BigNate
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I'm messing with a similar situation. My Model 70 has two piece Leupold bases and rings. I had to put a shim under the fwd base and still the scope( Leupold ) was at the edge of adjustment. I shot it for four years like that and then had problems with it when changing POI for some heavier bullets.

I sent the scope in and had it fixed. When I remounted it I was shooting real high with the travel at center. I have wondered if the base is mismatched front and back for hieght, or possibly the ring hieghts are miss matched. I'm not sure either so will be watching this post. I haven't had the time to fool with mine much yet.

For me this is the first time I've ever had this problem. I mounted a Leupold on another Mod 70 this summer. No shims used at all, bore sighted it myself, and the first shot was within just a couple inches of the bull.
 
Posts: 2376 | Location: Idaho Panhandle | Registered: 27 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Current production M70 receivers are all unique--the rear bridge is different on all. I've measured 20 or so receivers and determined the front ring to be quite uniform. The height of the rear bridge varies from rifle to rifle. I've also encountered the same problem of apparently inadequate elevation adjustment in the scope, especially with German-made scopes that have less adjustment range than Leupolds. The problem is the rear receiver bridge, not the scope. On some rifles, the rear base has required .020-.025" worth of correction. Ideally, front & rear bases should be level. A rough check can be made by measuring from the top of each base to the bolt. The difference between bases equals the amount of shims required under the low base. If your rifle is shooting low, the rear base is too low & requires a shim or two. An alternative to shims is to mill the high base. However, the amount of correction needed for some rifles makes it impossible to remove sufficient metal without cutting away the screw counterbore. The M70 is a decent rifle, but the rear bridge is far from uniform.
Roger
 
Posts: 477 | Location: Fayetteville, GA | Registered: 12 August 2004Reply With Quote
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Hey Jim, I'm using the Burris Signature rings that have the Eccentric Synthetic Inserts on a couple of intense recoil rifles and they are performing great. No slips - meaning they hold the scope totally secure, no marring the tube, no Ring Lapping, you can adjust them in any direction and they aren't real expensive.

Once I looked at them, I knew my days of using other Rings was numbered to the rifles I currently had scopes mounted on. The Burris Signatures are the next generation Rings available for us today and obsolete all others.

The only exception to that would be where a person would want the quick release "Lever Style" Rings. Burris does make a Signature Z-Ring version which works with Weaver Style Bases, but the Z-Rings slid on and off the Bases instead of using the Levers. Not quite as convenient, but they are rock solid.

The Burris Signatures with a set of the Eccentric Inserts would fix your problem and allow you to get the scope adjustments centered.
 
Posts: 9920 | Location: Carolinas, USA | Registered: 22 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Since you are shooting a DGR, spend some bucks and have Talley QD bases fitted to the gun from blank basis..Your return to zero will be much better...

I have my receivers surface ground and bases hand fitted which may or may not be even better...

Remember a scopes adjustments should always be as close as possible to the center of the adjustments to operate properly and hold a zero. If your out at the edge of your adjustments, your always in trouble...
 
Posts: 42320 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Picture of Dutch
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The Burris Off-set Signatures will do it, but that will leave you with the same problem you have now -- rings that are a little to high. The Signatures don't come in anything but medium and high. If you have an ostrich neck like I do, it's not a problem, but if you have normal physical dimensions, you may wish to go the custom rear base route. HTH, Dutch.
 
Posts: 4564 | Location: Idaho Falls, ID, USA | Registered: 21 September 2000Reply With Quote
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gal,

What Ray said.

There are several good 'smiths' from this sight that can custom make your bases for the exact level that you need.

Mark Stratton is making the bases for my Winchester Model 70 that he is building. I wanted the scope objective to be as close to the barrel as possible and to also make certain that the bases are the same height.

Give this a consideration in solving your problem.

All the best,

Sam
 
Posts: 702 | Location: Lenoir. N.C. | Registered: 18 September 2000Reply With Quote
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Put a .020" shim under the rear mount [paper, brass, Aluminum foil, anything works].

It should then shoot ~5" high.

Adjust the scope.


I personally glass bed my scope mounts, so I would make a 4 layer dam of masking tape [.005" per layer] and put epoxy inside the dam. I just barely tighten the greased srews while the epoxy sets up. When the epoxy hardens, I pull the screws, degrease the screw and the hole, and put the screws back in good and tight with lok-tite.
 
Posts: 2249 | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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