Here's a re-occurring bubbaism. When the tang on a Mauser is filed down this far, the cocking piece slot can no longer guide the cocking piece and the result is that the cocking piece rides up over the tang, as is readily seen in the small red high lite.

On a DGR this is totally unacceptable, because you can no longer readily close the bolt. On any Mauser it's at least annoying.

Now...look at the red highlighted area...our hero apparently discovered his mistake and rounded off the top edge of the slot...ugly and made matters worse.

This is a very valuable action otherwise. Worst case scenario, I may have to weld on a whole new tang.

The grip can be streamlined by filing down maybe half way. This will mean a slot in the stock, but that's just the way it's gotta be.

If his bolt is that sloppy then how would a full depth slot help? Mauser sporters are tapered downward into the grip. The tang I mean.

Well F---k I've been doing all wrong for 35 years

That was actually a common modification 30 years ago until gunsmiths began to notice that their Mausers were jamming solid at about 1/3rd closed when the cocking piece jammed on the rear tang. While I have seen examples that still worked well there is just to much slop in the 98 bolt to reliably use that modification on the majority of them. Even if the bolt doesn't jam it makes a hideous scare in the blue and polishing almost from the word go.

udaman Speerchucker. I've seen dozens of rifles like this and there's not a one that did show SOME signs of an over ride.

The fix? You've all seen, the fan shape at the rear of the slot, this combined with a taper on the cocking piece and a M 700 type notch at rear of bolt body can usually mitigate the problem

I'm going to try this fix on this Kurz action, but whoever filed down that tang really liked his job

If you remember the 50s and 60s Duane . . . . .

The odd Remington 700 would dog track on the tang sometimes - - - - - - - - - - before they started using the anti bind cut in the port side locking lug and the small rail for it to run in. It boiled down to tolerances in the receiver body but the anti bind cut solved the binding problem when the bolt knob was pushed up, forward and away from the port and it also helped guide the cocking piece in straight by restricting bolt slop.

I just follow the original Mauser factory sporter design. Most bolts aren't that sloppy. So I guess I'm bubba since 1973 when I built my first Mauser.
More often caused by someone trying to install the bolt with the shroud not screwed in all the way. Check out the actual bolt slop.

It's easy enough to tell before you go to the belt sander. The tang on the Mauser typically has a 45 degree or so cut on either side of the cocking piece race way to guide the cocking piece in. If the cocking piece crashes into those cuts pretty heavily, then you will have a problem after you shave the tang down. If it's all lined up and enters the race way without impacting on the back of the tang, then no problem. Cut it down.

Good advice. Some of this depends on, how sloppy (or not) the bolt sleeve lock fits.

One can almost always turn the bolt sleeve a bit CCW even when assembled . That's when you'll have a potential crash. I modified my last tang in 1986 (my own 270) Gusieppi Forte had engraved the area, ...sure enough, damaged the tang Ah shit!

I now do streamline it a bit, but always leave about half the aft end of the slot. I

So much of my work is heavy rifles, designed for DG that I just will not take the chnce

I had them crash back in the day too Duane. Never over a couple thousand dollars worth of engraving, but enough to have had to put another half days work into it. And for a self employed person that's almost as bad as being captured, tied between four trees and gang raped by the Hells Angels. I've heard that's none to pleasant!
In the past I centered the action on the rotary table and tossed it over 2 degrees and cut each side to look like a very slight V to guide the cocking piece in. Then try the bolt before taking it off the table and cut another degree until it would go in without climbing up over the top. I always polished the cut with #600 W&D and left it silver like the Grenouille did with the wear areas on the Belgium Browning Mausers because it's going to wear anyway.

That's the work of Bubba's apprentice, this is Bubba's work:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1...c=64123480#i64123480

I've seen that one before, gives new meaning to "bolt action".

Nice job: and no bolt alteration required. And he butchered a mint, matching vet bring back 98k in the process.

I bent the tang up slightly (about .010) so the cocking piece could get a better purchase and tapered the right side of the cocking piece...then "fan shaped" the action slot....sort of like a funnel. I have every confidence this will do the trick.

I used to do much the same but I never thought to make the funnel a gentle curve on each side like you have done. Looks good. I actually cut two hard angles using the rotary table, starting at about the back of the trigger sear. I also used to cut a slight notch in bolt body for the cocking piece to click into if there was a lot of play in the Bolt Sleeve Lock Plunger.

You wanna start a bidding war with me for Tailgunners Mauser as a display item in our shops? LMAO ROFF

Tailgunner's photos are the most horrible thing I have ever seen done to a Mauser.

Im such a believer in PAUL MAUSER, that I hesitate to challenge anything he does, I say hesitate, sometimes I sin and pray for forgiveness...

I saw a 7/8ths tube, steel Weaver 22 scope with a side mound arc welded to the side of a pre 64 1894 Winchester take down with an octagon barrel one time. He had laid a wonderfully solid bead about 3 inches long down the side of the receiver and side mount with, judging from the splatter for gription and the high cap, he had used some very nice low hy rods such as 7018. The customer was complaining that it no longer went boom and a quick inspection showed that it had a busted firing pin. I explained to him that I couldn't put in a new one because the scope mount covered the finger lever pin stop screw. I suggested that he take it to the shop across town because rumor had it that the fellow over there had an angle grinder.

He never came back so I guess the other guy fixed him up pretty good.

I hate it when I lose jobs because of the lack of proper equipment !

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
I bent the tang up slightly (about .010) so the cocking piece could get a better purchase and tapered the right side of the cocking piece...then "fan shaped" the action slot....sort of like a funnel. I have every confidence this will do the trick.

Classy work as always from you Duane. Most bubba's don't go the whole 9 yards and modify the cocking piece as you did. I've been filing the tangs since gunsmithing school and have yet to have a problem. Not that I haven't seen a big gouge on rifles I didn't build. Another contributing factor is a bolt shroud lock that doesn't work properly. Sometimes this can be blamed on an aftermarket 3pos safety manufacturer. My theory on the subject is when you move the bolt all the way back and wiggle it back and forth, it moves much more than when the cocking piece is just entering the slot on the tang. The further forward this occurs, the less the bolt can move side to side.

Here's a pic of a GMA action that has the tang extended about 1/2" from the factory, as they all do. IMHO, it has a greater possibility of gouging the tang than the one you have pictured. Because the cocking piece enters the slot when the bolt is further back. Just like when an extended tang is installed on a rifle.




This tang jammed almost every time without the proper fantail machined into the tang as well as the cocking piece modification. I do this on every rifle.

Since they are so scarce its always fun to see photos of Kurz actions!

Bubba's don't die they make new ones everyday.

dammit Tailgunner! I just saw that over on the MC site and was trying to wipe the tears from my eyes......

quote:

Originally posted by Rolland:
Bubba's don't die they make new ones everyday.

You can't fix stupid. But you can get stupid fixed so that stupid can't reproduce !