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Anybody bedded a Remington 788?
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Tips or suggestions? Should I just bed the lug or the entire receiver area? Bed the tang or float it? I haven't done one before and just wanted suggestions from the folks that have.
 
Posts: 498 | Location: Georgia | Registered: 13 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Personally i would bed the entire reciever area,and as to float your barrel or not,well that will just have to be your choice.There are advantages and disadvantages to both thoughts on barrel bedding.If free floating doesn,t hellp your accuracy,like you think it might then you can always go back and glass bed it. van
 
Posts: 442 | Location: Idaho | Registered: 16 December 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Buzz:
Tips or suggestions? Should I just bed the lug or the entire receiver area? Bed the tang or float it? I haven't done one before and just wanted suggestions from the folks that have.


When you prepare to bed the receiver, there is a little cutout on each side of the receiver where the recoil lug sits that you will need to fill with something to keep the epoxy out so that when you pull the action, it won't screw up your bedding.

You can use modeling clay to fill these, or, what I will do is degrease that area real good and cover each cutout with a small piece of tape, being sure to wax the area real good afterwards so that the epoxy doesn't grab the tape and remove it.

I would also float the barrel first and see how it shoots.
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: 06 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Glass bed like above first.

Then shoot.

Then add pressure to the forend

Then shoot.

Then float barrel.

Then shoot.

It's easier to add to the forend before you start taking away material.

I glass bed everything that doesn't have the word Blaser on it.
 
Posts: 4729 | Location: Australia | Registered: 06 February 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by malm:
When you prepare to bed the receiver, there is a little cutout on each side of the receiver where the recoil lug sits that you will need to fill with something to keep the epoxy out so that when you pull the action, it won't screw up your bedding.

You can use modeling clay to fill these, or, what I will do is degrease that area real good and cover each cutout with a small piece of tape, being sure to wax the area real good afterwards so that the epoxy doesn't grab the tape and remove it.

This is very good advice. A 788 was the only glass-bed job I ever "glued together". It was the little square recesses mentioned above that caused the problem.


"There are only three kinds of people; those who can count, and those who can't."
 
Posts: 1366 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: 10 February 2003Reply With Quote
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The glass should not touch the front,sides or bottom of the recoil lug.


My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost.
 
Posts: 6661 | Location: Wasilla, Alaska | Registered: 22 February 2005Reply With Quote
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One of the best shooting factory rifle I've ever had was a 788, 22-250 that I did an unconventional bedding job on. I bedded about 2" of the receiver and about 2" of the barrel. Everything else was floated. Assembled with only the front action screw and used a wood screw with insert on the rear of the trigger guard. Also added another screw to the trigger mechanism and changed springs on the 788.
Same bedding was done on a couple of R77V rifles, they shot good but the necks were so oversize that I lost interest in those rifles.
Now, I just do pillars and full glass bedding, nothing on the barrel.
Whatever works.
 
Posts: 226 | Registered: 07 January 2005Reply With Quote
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