Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply |
one of us |
So the other day I was testing loads with some 41 caliber 220 grain hard cast WFN bullets with and without gas checks. I will admit that ran them pretty hot with 20.2 grains of H110. When I went to clean my guns, one had leading in the barrel and the second did not. The one that did was a Taurus Tracker and the one that didn't was an original S&W Hunter from the Performance Center. It didn't take long for me to figure out that the difference was the high polish on the S&W versus the rougher Taurus. The question...Is there a good way to polish the barrel of the Taurus. If it was a rifle and I could run a rod straight through from end to end, no problem, but is there a good way on a revolver? Thanks in advance. BTW, both were acceptably accurate with both types of bullets. Larry "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson | ||
|
One of Us |
Do you have the ability to " Chuck Up " the revolver frame straight and true ?. Do you own a lathe or Milling machine ?. It can be done by other means also , although not as accurately . I prefer to chuck up frame open the cylinder swing it out of the barrel path . I like LOW RPM with 320-600 grit wet an dry paper and cutting Oil . I prefer to go into the chamber area first with my mandrel which is metal with a urethane coating ( it has a very narrow slot for tucking paper into ). Attaching my paper apply oil an spin the lathe slowly by hand to ensure all is well . Then turn on the lathe and pull my tail stock back which holds the frame . This allows the polishing mandrel to leave the chamber and slide down and out the barrel . I inspect it after a minute or so ,repeat so on . For final finishing I use metal polishing compound and repeat the above steps . I probably do an over kill ,but prefer the mandrel pulling in the direction of bullet travel . If you had a real straight set up and guide I suppose it could be done with an electric drill motor . The above worked on a couple of my pistols including a 44 Ruger Redhawk . Nearly no jacket fouling and shoots respectful groups . PS ; I also drew a cleaning rod with a swivel handle through it about 50 times so as to follow rifling , an over sized muslin cotton swab impregnated with polishing compound . BOL | |||
|
One of Us |
Fire-lapping. See Brownell's and Precision Shooting magazine for kits and instructions. It works. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
|
one of us |
Thanks for the suggestions. I really appreciate them. I don't have an appropriate lathe. I don't think I could fit it to my mini wood lathe. Joe, I will look there. That's what I would do for a rifle (in some cases) as well. Larry "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson | |||
|
One of Us |
Larry, the fire-lapping process was developed and publicized by Merrill Martin back in the late '80s in an article in Precision Shooting. He did it using a pair of S&W revolvers; although rifle cures have become more popular in recent years, revolver problems are why the process was originally developed. IT WORKS! Good luck. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
|
one of us |
Thanks. I'm going to have to buy the kit and use my own bullets, which is not a problem. I don't think it is bad enough for the 220 grit, but the finer should work fine. Before I do that, I am going to scrub the heck out of it with some JB. Larry "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson | |||
|
One of Us |
I have fire-lapped several revolver barrels, and for me it works. | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia