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Bell & Carlson Medalist question...
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I just purchased a Bell & Carlson Medalist stock for my Browning A-bolt. I have a question for those of you who have these stocks.

This stock has a full-length aluminum chassis....and has an aluminum bedding block behind the recoil lug. However, the recoil lug does not fit "snuggly" into this spot. Do these stocks require additional bedding to fit properly? (i.e. glass bedding, "hot glue", or something similar)


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Posts: 3113 | Location: Hockley, TX | Registered: 01 October 2005Reply With Quote
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I recommend bedding them all. Make sure your action sits level in the aluminum block and adjust to prevent binding prior to bedding. And NO hot melt glue!


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This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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I agree with Westpac. The 22-250 I had in a HS Precision stock shot markedly better after I bedded the action.
 
Posts: 714 | Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin | Registered: 09 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Forgot to mention the recoil lug does seem to fit snug up against aluminum block....


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Posts: 3113 | Location: Hockley, TX | Registered: 01 October 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Eland Slayer:
Forgot to mention the recoil lug does seem to fit snug up against aluminum block....


Well that's a good start.


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This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Westpac:
quote:
Originally posted by Eland Slayer:
Forgot to mention the recoil lug does seem to fit snug up against aluminum block....


Well that's a good start.


So you still think I should glass bed the recoil lug?

In reading the B&C user manual....it says they do not necessarily recommend glass bedding, and that the rifle should be tested for accuracy first, before deciding to glass bed the action.


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Posts: 3113 | Location: Hockley, TX | Registered: 01 October 2005Reply With Quote
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Yes, you're not just glassing in the recoil lug, but you're bedding the sides of the receiver as well to prevent it from shifting from shot to shot. You want that action held fast in he stock and bedding just the lug won't get it.


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This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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I may give it a try at the range first....before deciding to bed anything. The gun shoots sub-MOA groups with the factory synthetic stock....(which appears to have glass bedding around the recoil lug, but that is all).

I should have researched this prior to purchasing the stock I guess....I would not feel comfortable bedding the stock myself, and don't really feel like spending $200 or more to have it done. At least not at the moment...


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Posts: 3113 | Location: Hockley, TX | Registered: 01 October 2005Reply With Quote
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At the very least, when putting your action into the stok, put the screws in loosely, set the rifle up verticle, resting on the butt and then tighten the screws while gently holding the action down against the recoil lug. That wy at least your first shot may have benefit of correct recoil lug engagement.


John Farner

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Posts: 2946 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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That stock also has pressure pads at the forend. I would shoot it with a known load first. If it doesn't shoot well, remove the pressure pads and try again. If still no-go, then glass bed.


Larry

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Posts: 3942 | Location: Kansas USA | Registered: 04 February 2002Reply With Quote
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I've run into another issue with my Medalist....

First of all, the length of pull on this stock is ridiculously short....but I figured, "no big deal, I will just buy a spacer and install it myself".

I've done it myself before.

The Medalist comes with a Pachmayr Decelerator pad installed. I ASSUMED the pad was just screwed on (like any other pad)....however, I was going to remove the pad today and install my spacer and guess what....the pad seems to be GLUED on. I can't get the damn thing off!!

Any suggestions for getting the pad off without cutting it off?


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Posts: 3113 | Location: Hockley, TX | Registered: 01 October 2005Reply With Quote
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Not really.

I have a DeWalt 12" chopsaw that is square and reasonably accurate.

In these instances I have CAREFULLY cut the pad off, then installed one of those Hex head cap screw assemblies that allowed me to add as many spacers as I desired before screwing the pad back on. It is easier to do than to describe.

L/D


 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Just to show you a pic of what Westpac is telling you here is a new McMillan before I bed it. The inletting black shows where they receiver actually touches the stock at the moment.
 
Posts: 518 | Registered: 28 November 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Eland Slayer:


Any suggestions for getting the pad off without cutting it off?


The following worked for me on an HS Precision Stock to get the glued on pad off.

Score the joint between stock and pad with a razor blade all the way around as deeply as you can reasonably push.

With the barreled action out of the stock, put the stock in the freezer for 2+ hours. Longer is better, but after two hours you should be OK.

Remove stock from freezer and lay on bench with a towel underneath. Take a broad wood working chisel at least 1" wide and place at the junction of pad and stock. Give the chisel a good sharp rap with a hammer. The pad should pop off with one or two hits.
 
Posts: 714 | Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin | Registered: 09 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Bell & Carlson will custom make a stock in your length of pull. I have custom ordered several stocks from them in different lengths and have settled on 14 1/4 as the length that fits me the best. Not much of an extra charge, usually just a 6 week wait.
To your original question. They also recommend to use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the epoxy they use and after it gets good and warm, just pull the pad off. Use a good quick set epoxy to reinstall.
 
Posts: 4214 | Location: Southern Colorado | Registered: 09 October 2011Reply With Quote
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+1 on what pagosawingnut said!

God Bless, Louis
 
Posts: 1381 | Location: Mountains of North Carolina | Registered: 14 January 2008Reply With Quote
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I had major accuracy problems a few months ago with a Medalist stock. Once my friend glassed it, turned into a one hole gun. Its really worth it to have someone do it for you if you can't. I don't think it would cost 200$ just to glass bed a rifle.


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Posts: 2287 | Location: CO | Registered: 14 December 2007Reply With Quote
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This what a good bedding job well do for you. I reshaped a wood glass bedded stock and refinshed it. Had it in and out of the action several times.

Took it to the range to resight it in. Didn't have to put 3 shots into 3/4 inch dead nuts for windage and elevation.
 
Posts: 19688 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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