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Inletting Fiddleback Walnut?
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I am in the process of inletting a riflestock that has a lot of fiddleback grain in it. It is a really nice looking stock that my wife picked out.

I am having an issue with my scrapers digging in on the fiddleback grain. While inletting the barrel channel I am having some issues. The scrapers are working fine untel I get to the fiddleback grain and then they skip and dig in. THe scrapers are all realy sharp. They work great on the ebony forend.

Are there any tricks to make this easier?

Any advice or help would be greatly appriciated.
 
Posts: 694 | Location: Santa Ynez Valley, Ca | Registered: 14 March 2011Reply With Quote
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Really only 2 (IMO) satisfactory solutions for this. The traditional scrapers, whether the Fisher type or the older L-shaped ones, tend to dig their relatively thin scraping edges into the softer portions between the hard areas and also between the wave-crest ridges of the fiddleback. IMO what's needed is a cutter that will serve to bridge & cut only the wave crests so as to leave a relatively level surface behind.

First & perhaps easiest for some is to have your gouges or 1/3-round chisels sharpened to a RAZOR edge and simply use them to cut a smooth-bottomed groove, removing a mere sliver at a time in the final efforts. When I say a RAZOR edge, that's exactly what I mean, the edge MUST be highly polished and of course must also shave the hair on your arms.

To sharpen to this RAZOR edge is beyond the abilities of many smiths plus is a time-eating PITA and so I also use round & half-round files, heated red and then bent to the proper Z-shape. Heat red again and quench to restore the hardness.

I also finish up with 80- or 120-grit paper wrapped around the bent round files, to remove that final smidgen of transfer color and give a smooth surface for beginning the sanding step.
HTH, regards, Joe


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NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
 
Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
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I have a couple offset and curve carving gouges that were passed on to me from my Grandfather. Or like JD said course sandpaper I warp around different sized dowels


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks guys,

I have been using the scrapers then sandpaper on a dowell after to smooth things with some sucess. If I goe really easy with the scrapers and sand before the digging in gets to bad it seems to work ok.

I tried with my gouge but I am not sure I trust myself with it on the top of the stock where you could see any mistakes I make. I could see it following the grain and splitting out a big chunk. My gouge is pretty sharp but not as sharp as it probebly could be.

I think that I may take a half round file and make a tool for this.

Thanks for the suggestions and ideas!
 
Posts: 694 | Location: Santa Ynez Valley, Ca | Registered: 14 March 2011Reply With Quote
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Use a buffer and rouge to get the final edge.
 
Posts: 1028 | Location: Mid Michigan | Registered: 08 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Milling machines work wonders with interlocking grain such as fiddle back . Jig Router also can be most useful .

When planning interlocked grain using helical fluted cutters angled 15-30 degrees perpendicular too grain is also useful for preventing tear out . Just info as I understand your situation is different .

salute archer archer
 
Posts: 4485 | Location: Planet Earth | Registered: 17 October 2008Reply With Quote
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