I'm about to start a refinishing job of an English walnut stock. I've done a laminate before and had good results using tru-oil. I want something that's not as shinny this time around. What oil for hand rubbing will give a rich look to the wood but not have a glossy appearance? Also anybody got any web site links on the subject of stock refinishing? Here's a pic of the stock. Thanks in advance. Terry

[ 10-28-2002, 05:52: Message edited by: TC1 ]

Terry,
You can still use True oil, if you like it. When you are done, rub it down with some rotten stone on a cloth pad dipped in true oil first. You will end up with a matte finish.

Customstox
I've always had the most difficultys getting a dead flat finish regardless of product, I often end up with with small "scratches" for the lack of a better description, using rottenstone and/or fine steel wool. What would you quess to be my mistake? Thanks.

Terry,

Here is a link. I can't attest to this website, it is just one that I came across while surfing.

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/

Birchwod Casey has a How to Guide (in pdf format) on their website:

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/

Regards,

Terry

[ 10-28-2002, 06:58: Message edited by: T.Carr ]

I have used both Tru Oil and Pro Custom Oil (Brownell's) with excellent results. For a "soft" flat finish I use Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen. Works great and leaves no scratches.

For a nice old style finish I like to use just straight linseed oil. You can buy it in a jug at any word working store and you just keep coiting the stock till you achieve the luster you want.

Dempsey,
You need to use a lot of oil and don't press too hard. You need to get a feel for it. Then it has to be removed carefully. Scratches can result in that portion of the work if you are not careful. You can get a sheen if you do it enough with rottenstone.

What Dan said, Linseed oil will give you that sort of finish.

Here we go again, another "fight to the finish".
Straight lenseed oil is not a very good finish. It will turn the wood dark(black), it can and does make it soft and punky, and it is not very water proof. I know some people might disagree with me but I'll stand by what I've said and believe most of the pro's will agree. Pete

1:1:1/2 Tru-Oil, Tung Oil, Turpentine with a couple drops of Japan Dryer.

Pete,
I totally agree with you on Linseed oil and like you I get tired of saying "don't use it." Any commercial finish is better.

I use thinned Tru-oil and sand it in. Once to pores are well filled and I have a good foundation I finish with a very thin coat of thinned tru-oil. To maintain the finish I do use boiled linseed (gasp). This is also thinned and rubbed on then wiped off. This helps to obscure minor scratches and does not seem to affect the color of the wood significantly as long as the initial finish is well done.
Tru oil can also be built up into a hi gloss of course and this gloss can be cut back with rubbing compound resulting in a kind of a satin finish. This will have a tendency to shine up with use though. I really think the important thing is to get the initial coats to penetrate and setup well to seal the top layers of wood. This sealing is within the wood and will remain there regardless of what happens on the surface.
I knew one real good stockmaker who used what appeared to be some kind of shellac finish. Looked really good but I don't think durability was what it could of been. regards, Bill.

"Straight" Linseed Oil will indeed not work. It will never dry completely "Boiled" Linseed Oil, or Lindseed Oil with "driers" added will however.

To get a dull finish with "Tru-Oil', rub down lightly with 000 steel wool and wipe with a cloth moistened in turpintine.

DO NOT use linseed of any kind. I ruined a very expensive piece of English with BLO. I just would not listen to the wood vendor. If you use BLO it will make it extremely dark, promise. I made this rifle for me, something I rarely do. I went all out with a Pre 64 action, match grade barrel, 257 Roberts, skeleton butplate and grip cap, ebony forend tip, and lots of super fine checkering. It is almost black now!!! Really poor decision.

I like satin conversion varnish now. That is my go-to finish. Fill the wood with tinted filler, or use diluted finish and "wet sand" to fill. Spray the finish on with an automitive gun. Wet sand between coats. Rub out with automotive rubing compound.

I use Tru-Oil for the finish. When the pores are filled. I mix a paste of Rotten Stone and Linseed Oil to rub out the shine. Go easy on the pressure and it will not leave scratches. The linseed oil paste is fairly easy to clean off when you are through.
On the first one I tried, I got the paste too thick and rubbed the devil out of it - ended up taking the finish off in places. Live and learn.

wildcat Junkie, you are right but the boiled linseed oil still gets beat 10 ways to Sunday by anything else. Well scratch straight tung oil. It was the best thing they had 100 years ago. Today it isn't true.

BTW, how are you feeling. If I rememeber you got banged up recently? Hope things are coming along. Not a good time to be laid up, there are animals roaming.