OK guys, don't leave me hanging. Where do I get GunGoddess? I've used Pilks and Herters and Brownells and even mixed my own but have not been completely satisfied with any of them. I'm ready to try another. BTW, for a quick and easy cold blue try the new Blue Wonder Novum Solution (not really cold since you do need a propane torch). But at least it doesn't wipe off with an oily rag.

Ray

I use gungoddes for rifles-gives it more of a blue color.

I use Laurel Mountain FOrge for shotguns-gives me more of a black color.

Pilkington's did not work well for me. The way I was doing it, it came out thin and not very even. with spots not as blue as other places.

I'm a firm believer in folks trying things to see what works best for them. Pilk might be perfect for the next guy, but for me, I like gungoddess

I have used all of the commercially available solutions at one time or the other. I went to Gun Goddess 15 years ago, and believe me it's the best stuff out there.

I am coming to the end of my (then $9.95) bottle of Plinktons Classic Slow Rust Blue. I am wondering if I should order a bottle of GunGoddess...

Has anyone used them all? Lately, my rust jobs have been turning out too glossy. I polish to 320, wire wheel, degrease, and card off with the .0025 Gesswein wheel... Smooth even deep blue/black though- I shouldn't complain- just too glossy.

I seek to develop a "built up" rust blue to further increase durability and satin depth.

Are they all the same stuff? What makes one better than the other? Does GunGoddess "build" better than the others?

Well maybe my memory isnt what it used to be but I swear Jim said he had to add color to pass some inspection so it could be shipped.....or some damn thing.....

The phone # Bill posted is correct.

Half Moon Rifle Shop
490 Half Moon Rd.
Columbia Falls, MT
59912
406 892 4409

My notes may be a bit dated for contact information on Jim Baiar... (406) 892-4409

His Half Moon Barrels are also supposed to be well worth trying...

But, can you do a built up rust blue with GunGoddess??? What color is the GunGoddess solution???

I thought the color was green because copper chloride is one of the ingredients. I could be wrong.

Color is lime green and I think thats because Jim adds coloring. I think he told me that one time.

Mark Lee Slow Rust is also green like Mountain Dew. I can get a deep blue in as little as three coats but I wonder what the durability is when so few coats are used. Sometimes, more coats than 5 do not produce any additonal rust.

I wonder if Mark Lee Slow Rust Blue and GunGoddess are the same formula?

Mark Lee's formula does not build. There is no evidence of "rust" on the steel- only color after carding...

Roger is correct, either copper cloride or copper sulphate. Its purpose is to darken the metal immediately after application so one can see where it had been applied.
If you swab the steel vigorously and longer than needed, you will see a trace of copper plating which doesn't do a thing for the blue job.

Very light passes the length of the barrel and you will see the metal begin to darken before the pass is completed.

I've made every mistake possible with rust bluing. I did my first rust bluing at Trinidad about 1977-78. I've still got the Ruger Super Blackhawk, and the bluing still sucks. Since then I've discovered that Ruger cast steel is some of the most difficult to properly rust blue.

DeBee,
Gun Goddess does build up, I seriously doubt if it is the same thing as Mark Lee's solution.

Please indulge a query from a veritable neophyte. I've been rust bluing for only 15 years and sometimes believe the more I blue the less I know.
After trying several products, I've used the Laurel Mtn Forge solution for probably 10 years & have been pleased with its performance. Lately, however, something has gone awry. The first and second applications of bluing solution usually perform as expected. That is, the parts emerge from the damp box with a light coat of orangish-red rust that turns back when boiled. The black "rust" is the consistency of a very fine powder & easily carded off the steel. On subsequent coats, the parts rust but boiling does not covert the rust--it remains rust colored. This is also easily carded and the parts achieve a good black finish after 4-5 applications. I believe the rust created in the damp box is ferrous oxide and that boiling in distilled water converts it to black ferric oxide. So it seems this conversion is not taking place correctly. This problem effects mainly modern chrome-moly barrels and actions. Smaller action parts or stock hardware made from mild steel usually rust & convert properly.
As to techniques, I use a damp box & control temperature & humidity. The bluing solution is applied with small patches made from sweatshirt material and is applied very lightly--no scrubbing or overlaps, lightly enough that it evaporates very quickly. Water is either store-bought distilled water or water from a dehumidifier. Parts are boiled for at least 5 minutes. Boiling longer or a second time doesn't help. Water is changed for each boiling. A related problem is that barrels usually exude a black soot for up to a week after final boiling & oiling. That is, a barrel can be wiped clean & oiled, then when wiped subsequently, the patch picks up a black residue. This does not occur with smaller parts Any suggestions are welcome. Many thanks.
Roger

Roger:

I have had that very same feeling many times. Rust bluing is one of the most frustrating operations I have ever undertaken.

I don't think you would be able to card off a layer of ferric oxide, or at least all of it. Your finished product would come out with a red cast to it. What about your tank? Is it stainless or black iron? If it is black it could be depositing rust onto your work. The same thing can happen with the stainless tank if all of the rust isn't cleaned out after the boil.

If that's not it, you will have to go back to when your bluing was working and figure out what has changed. It is usually such a subtle difference in technique or material that has caused the problem.

That's probably not the answer you were looking for, but I have never been able to have somebody else diagnose my bluing problems. It is just too difficult to describe all of the little things done during the operation. One of which, is screwing up the work.

The black soot you are wiping off is not a problem. When you boil the steel parts the ferric oxide is converted to ferro-ferric oxide (sp.) or black oxide. The black oxide is magnetic. You aren't wiping off your new blue, it's just the converted rust clinging to the steel.

I would be very much interested in knowing what method of metal preperation is prefered by you folks with lots of rust blueing experience. Ive mostly only tried various grades of sandpaper followed by degreasing and found it lacking in consistency which is magnified with finishing. I havent got a bead blaster and am wondering if perhaps removal of old blueing with chemicals followed by steel wool might produce better results??

Any suggestions appreciated.

If you don't have a sand blaster I would hand polish to no higher than 400 grit. That will give some tooth to the metal for the initial blue coats to bite.

For my work, I prefer a fairly high polish. I like the look of the blue better. It seems to have a bit higher luster to me. I don't like the blue to have a matte texture. I prefer an eggshell texture. When I'm doing the polishing I use a knife makers belt grinder and polish to 1500 grit. Then I buff on the buffer with a sisal wheel and a gray grease compound that removes all of the scratches and puts a fairly high shine on the metal (not a mirror polish). Tom Burgess puts the ideal polish on the metal for a hot blue or rust blue. We could all take a lesson or two from him.

Then I put a bit of tooth to the metal by blasting with 320 grit silcon carbide @ 20 psi. It is a quick pass with the gun. Looking at the metal, you can barely perceive the sand blast.

I don't think you have to sand blast or even put any tooth to the metal. It just makes the blue more uniform and takes less passes with the solution to get a good job. It also precludes having to do too many coats and winding up with too deep an etch.

I would strip the old blue prior to polishing. It will make your job easier and the work will turn out better.