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Recommendations for Pre-64 Model 70 Bottom Metal
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I am building a .416 Remington on a Pre-64 Model 70 action that someone had turned into a .300 Weatherby. Who makes decent bottom metal these days? I noticed Swift says that theirs needs front hole modification to fit a .375-length action. Anyone know what that is all about?


One morning I shot an elephant in my pajamas. How he got into my pajamas I'll never know. - Groucho Marx
 
Posts: 3866 | Location: Eastern Slope, Colorado, USA | Registered: 01 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by loud-n-boomer:
I am building a .416 Remington on a Pre-64 Model 70 action that someone had turned into a .300 Weatherby. Who makes decent bottom metal these days? I noticed Swift says that theirs needs front hole modification to fit a .375-length action. Anyone know what that is all about?


https://www.sunnyhillgunparts.com/70win.html
 
Posts: 248 | Registered: 24 August 2008Reply With Quote
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When Ted Blackburn passed, his bottom metal was taken over by Swift bullets. Ted's original design moved the front guard screw hole location forward by about 5/16" which necessitates drilling and taping a new guard screw location in the action. Supposedly it added some strength to keep that area from developing a crack.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5534 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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There is absolutely nothing wrong with using the factory 300 H&H bottom metal on a 416 Remington. I built one and many others have too and I never heard any complaints. That is a great option to build a 416 from a 300 Weatherby conversion; that is exactly what I used when I did it. I wish I still had that 416! There are a lot of guns I wish I still had! LOL


PA Bear Hunter, NRA Benefactor
 
Posts: 1632 | Location: Potter County, Pennsylvania | Registered: 22 June 2005Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
When Ted Blackburn passed, his bottom metal was taken over by Swift bullets. Ted's original design moved the front guard screw hole location forward by about 5/16" which necessitates drilling and taping a new guard screw location in the action. Supposedly it added some strength to keep that area from developing a crack.




That would be a new one on me....Seems to me the reason for the front guard screw re location was (is) the longer floorplate, which of course, moves the hinge forward.

When I was making them, the gentleman doing thew programs, rearrangaed the hinge geometry and we kept the original hole.... ( How's that for worthless information?) HAR!
 
Posts: 3673 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013Reply With Quote
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Don't recall where I got that info but the pre-64's were prone to cracking between the guard screw and mag box; the extra 5/16 of wood should have some effect. I still have a jig I made for locating that new hole


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5534 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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I have used Sunny Hill bottom metal (one dropped, one straight) on a couple of my Model 70 builds. They need some finishing and refinement but they work well.
 
Posts: 874 | Location: S. E. Arizona | Registered: 01 February 2019Reply With Quote
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