All right I was wonder how folks go about doing this. I asked this question to a very good stock-maker and he told me to make a template and file it it. I think there has to be a better way to do it with a milling machine with some type of shaping cutter? I have seen some done that obviously look like they just went in with an end mill on the x axis then backed out on the y axis. Then I have seen some nice ones done with complex curves is the only way I can describe it. Just curious on how to get that good complex curve look.

I know at least one excellent gunmaker that reshapes with a prototrak mill.

So, I just went to James Anderson webpage and it appears that he uses a CNC to cut his.

Check with Al Lind via the ACGS-or some other acronym-for his contact information. The guy is a master with few peers.

Stephen

I just use a 3/8 cutter and duplicate the pre-war tang. I use an Etch-a-sketch technique to get the outside curve and let the cutter diameter establish the inside curve and finish with a file; undercutting slightly. I was making them exact but was asked to make the tang a bit bigger to ensure a tight fit in a pre-inlet stock so I leave it about .020" wide at the tang. Regards, Bill.

Mike McCabe did one for me. He did an excellent job.

This is one I recently did, all by hand!

You are absolutely right; in the old days, the first tool taught and practiced was the file. Nowadays, everyone's first thought is the computer. Last month I had a master level "Machinist" who works for a large company, ask me to teach him how to thread and chamber a barrel. I told him that he should already know how, given all the training he had. He said they were really machine operators with little experience on hand work. Sad.

When I entered TSJC in 1952 our first project was to make machinist square. You were given a piece of 1/8" flatiron and required to cut an 'L' shaped piece and 2 rectangles for the square. The rectangles were riveted to each side of the short leg and you then proceeded to file a square square - by that I mean ALL angles square. I got all the squares but slightly missed the dimensions so just got a passing grade. They actually taught you what a file was used for. I'm looking at it now as I have used it regularly all these years. I think the next project was to make a flat spring. I needed a mainspring for an 1886 with set trigger so that's what I made. It's a special as half of the side needs to be cutaway for clearance of the set trigger. Passed that one with a perfect score. Such was the training then.

I just rough file it, then finish with a fine tooth file, paper then hones...

Just cut to the actual tang, all they did was add a bunch of flat metal to the original Mod. 70 clover leaf, why I have no idea, but when you remove it you have a clover leaf....

There is a lot of filing to be done, and it should look just like a clover leaf original when finished..

Also its a pretty good idea to take it to a gunsmith or machinist and have them cut away the hard part, then finish by hand.

quote:

This is one I recently did, all by hand!

In all the years I've know you this is the first time I have ever heard you use that sentence!

I regret ever buying you that beer at the Legacy in Reno

just one...?

That is beautiful workmanship.

Jim you're lucky. I saw him get Gary Goudy to buy him two shots of 12yr old Scotch...Dave

They put that flange on there to hide the receiver tang inletting; they could now make it sloppy, and have a gap so wood wouldn't split at the tang like it sometimes did with a tightly inletted tang. Easier to make stocks.

Jim,

would you give us some estimate of what such work would cost these days?
You could PM me if you prefer.

Rich

quote:

Originally posted by dave wesbrook:
Jim you're lucky. I saw him get Gary Goudy to buy him two shots of 12yr old Scotch...Dave

It was bourbon...on the rocks with a splash.
...and Jim, I do consider you the king of the Bridgeport.