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New trigger for Ruger Mag. Rifle
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Can anyone recommend a replacement trigger for my Ruger Magnum Rifle? Will an adjustable trigger made for the MkII fit the Magnum Rifle? I've used a Timney trigger in the past on a MkII, but wonder if there are better options available.
 
Posts: 13 | Location: Roseburg, Oregon | Registered: 15 June 2003Reply With Quote
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Waterbuck,

I had mine reworked for 45 bucks and it's 3# now, I love it!

I've often wondered if a MKII trigger would work in my MAG action too though? Any smith here know?
 
Posts: 913 | Location: Palmer, Alaska | Registered: 15 June 2002Reply With Quote
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I put a Timney in my .416 Rigby M77, works great. However I have noticed one thing that bothers me a bit; the tip of the trigger has more clearance between the trigger guard and tip than I would like. I was going to call Timney about this but haven't gotten to it yet. The trigger looks like it could stand to be a bit longer.
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 238 | Location: Colorado | Registered: 05 June 2001Reply With Quote
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CGB,

What was the part #, and was it for a Magnum action or simply the regular MKII?
 
Posts: 913 | Location: Palmer, Alaska | Registered: 15 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks, guys; but after posting my inquiry I had a stroke of genious. I simply took the Timney trigger out of my Ruger MkII and put it in my Ruger Magnum Rifle to see if it would fit (duh!). Works like a charm! Even though the RMR's action is much longer, the trigger/sear assemblies are identical. The trigger pull-weight seems to be exactly the same (in the 2.5 to 3lb. range) from one rifle to the next. So, there's my answer. Lesson learned: sometimes it better to try it first, then ask the dumb questions.
 
Posts: 13 | Location: Roseburg, Oregon | Registered: 15 June 2003Reply With Quote
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Waterbuck :

You can also print the information below, and give it to your favorite gun smith. This is great information on how to work a Ruger trigger (make sure you print the drawing, and use a laser printer):

http://www.centerfirecentral.com/77trigger.html
 
Posts: 2448 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 25 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Ray

Thank you for that timely posting - I figure I can do this trigger mod myself - if not then I'll get the Timney - but it looks pretty straight forward
 
Posts: 363 | Location: Madison Alabama | Registered: 31 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Rifleman 1: The instructions are very clear and easy to follow, but the drawing is much clearer when a laser printer is used.

In reality, the instructions are intended for gun smiths to use only. It can be done by anybody who knows how and has the proper files and hones. But as with any steel work, once you have removed too much, there is no way back. For that reason alone, I would let my favorite gun smith do the work. A good gun smith can do a beautiful job with those instructions.
 
Posts: 2448 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 25 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I put a Dayton Traister on one of my Ruger's after I screwed up doing a trigger job on it,

However it is a great trigger and helped the rifle and my groups on that rifle out a lot.

cost was reasonable. I ordered directly from them, since they are in the Pacific NW here ( Washington)
 
Posts: 2889 | Location: Southern OREGON | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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For Brent,
I believe Timney only lists one trigger for the MKII actions. If they make a special for the mag. action I can't find it.
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 238 | Location: Colorado | Registered: 05 June 2001Reply With Quote
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CGB,
thanks for the clarification. [Smile]

Ray,
thanks for the instructions there. [Smile]
 
Posts: 913 | Location: Palmer, Alaska | Registered: 15 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Just for info: Picked up my used 7mm mag SS MKII with the composite boat paddle stock that was on lay away. Before going to the range I did the trigger job that is posted above. I did print off the drawings with a laser printer and they were very clear. Since I was a little cautious I only did the work on the trigger and not the sear. The sear looked to me to have a small enough notch - and unforgiving if you take off too much metal. Involved removing one pin that holds the trigger - don't loose the return spring - used a plain flat file with the trigger secured in a vice - flattened the one surface to make it more level and cut in the little 45 degree leading edge - clearer if you see the drawing. That little 45 degree bevel makes a big difference - tried it without and a couple of times while cutting it. I used my case lenght calipers to judge the cuts per the drawing. Installed and removed the trigger maybe three times and cut just a little more metal until I was happy. Polished the surfaces on my buffing wheel and stuck it back in. Nice change from 8 lbs to maybe three and very very little creep. - off to the range to try some reloads I had worked up and using 150 NBT's and RL22 and SC4831 the rifle put three shots into .750" - best with SC4831. Whole trigger process took maybe thirty minutes - but I like to tinker and sort of enjoy doing stuff like this - and I saved $60 that a Timney would have cost.
 
Posts: 363 | Location: Madison Alabama | Registered: 31 July 2002Reply With Quote
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