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Looking for recommendations on bandsaw blade
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Running to the end of a coil of Starrett coil stock, a type apparently no longer made by Starrett, so I'm shopping for a replacement. I have a small horizontal saw that uses 1/2" by .025" blade. Only make a few cuts a week on barrels, 1018 stock and once in a great while structural steel--small angle iron and thick-wall square or rectangular tubing. I've been looking at whats available and don't know what would be best in my shop; anyone have a suggestion?


John Farner

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Posts: 2949 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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I've got one of those little saws from HF. I like the 10-14 variable pitch for thicker stock and 14-18 for thin stuff. Last time I got blades was from Amazon. Starret and Supercut brand Bi-metal. If you don't cut much less than 1/8" thick you should be able to get away with the 10-14 or single pitch in that range.
 
Posts: 714 | Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin | Registered: 09 October 2003Reply With Quote
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+1


Dave

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Posts: 899 | Location: Ammon, NC | Registered: 31 December 2013Reply With Quote
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IIRC from my years of selling bandsaws and blades, the rule of thumb is to have 4-6 teeth engaged in the workpiece at any time.
And we always recommended bi-metal if available.


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Posts: 3831 | Location: Cave Creek, AZ | Registered: 09 August 2001Reply With Quote
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I understand that part of the equation, but do you have a brand or trademark you'd recommend?


John Farner

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Posts: 2949 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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I have two metal saws that get used.

The Hortz saw get used at least twice a week.
It uses 93 1/2' x 3/4" x .035" 10 tpi blades. Have used Starret in it for about 20 years. BUT last year had to change type of steel for some parts. Cutting up lots of pieces of Hot Rolled 5160 would just eat up the Starett blades. One day MSC had Lenox on sale in that size so OK I bought a couple. WOW they last 3 to 4 times longer than the Starret, about twice the price but preforms much better. They are an 8 - 12 vari tooth.

The Vert saw uses an 113" x 1/2 x .025" x 10 tooth blade. Years ago I bought a coil of Starret blade stock to solder them. When it is gone most likely will change over to Lenox if I can.

The neighbor has a fab shop and has used Lenox for about 20 years also.

My 2 cents.

JW
 
Posts: 1497 | Location: Chehalis, Washington | Registered: 02 April 2003Reply With Quote
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John,
I've had the best results using bi-metal blades. I've used different manufacturers with about the same results. I think last time I bought 3 blades off Amazon that were cut and welded and they have lasted about 1 1/2 years and I still have 1 left. I use the band saw mostly for cutting barrels. The blades last well if I don't cut anything thin, like 1/8 inch.


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Posts: 843 | Location: Randleman, NC | Registered: 07 April 2005Reply With Quote
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I have one of those little Taiwanese metal band saws. It uses 64-1/2 x 1/2 x .025 blades. I use it daily on barrels and 1018, 4350, hot roll, cold roll and the odd bit of pre-hard. I only use two blades per year and I generally buy Busy Bees house brand bi-metal blades. When I first bought it I went through a blade per month. When I was making batches of brakes a blade per week. I got fed up with that BS and tied it in to the water coolant on my small mill. After I started running coolant on the blade I actually have to look to see where I stashed the new blades when I last bought them and figure out how to change one again. One of my associates in crime was complaining about his saw being a blade hog and while visiting one day we took a look at it and went to Costco and bought an industrial cake pan about 4 feet x 2 feet x 2 inches and bolted it between the saw and stand as a catch pan and installed one of those Little Giant cooling pumps for the hobby lathes. He hasn't replaced a blade in 3 years since. Water coolant is the key.


When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
 
Posts: 2542 | Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada | Registered: 05 June 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Toomany Tools:
I understand that part of the equation, but do you have a brand or trademark you'd recommend?

Used to sell Starret and before that Lenox. Most of the big industrial suppliers chase the big blade market selling 1 inch and 1 1/4 blades and bigger so the offering on small 1/2 blades is typically limited. As Toomanytools said, coolant is your friend. Even if you just take some aerosol tapping fluid or WD40 and spray things down it will make a big difference but all the bigger saws have flood coolant.
Sorry I can't give a better recommendation, been retired for 20 years and things change.


Have gun- Will travel
The value of a trophy is computed directly in terms of personal investment in its acquisition. Robert Ruark
 
Posts: 3831 | Location: Cave Creek, AZ | Registered: 09 August 2001Reply With Quote
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We use Lenox in the shop I work in


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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we're currently running 5 saws and use 10/14 bimetal in all. stay away from cobalt - its to hard and the teeth are stripped off in no time. bi metal will outlast hss 10-1
 
Posts: 13466 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Thanks, fellas. I ordered a coil of Lenox 14-18 bi-metal. At over $3-per foot I hope it lasts a LONG time.


John Farner

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Posts: 2949 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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We have two saws at my employment that run 24/6 and use Lenox...with lots of coolant. We cut inconel, 13 chrome and 9 chrome with one all day long. Good luck!


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Steve Traxson

 
Posts: 1641 | Location: Green Country Oklahoma | Registered: 03 August 2007Reply With Quote
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In my little one man, do no work much, shop. I lucked on the Lenox. Coolant and cutting oil is tough on the tires.
 
Posts: 8964 | Location: Poetry, Texas | Registered: 28 November 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by butchlambert:
In my little one man, do no work much, shop. I lucked on the Lenox. Coolant and cutting oil is tough on the tires.


It is possible to use a pump and a catch pan and recycle that nasty-ole-coolant, instead of letting it run all over the floor there Ole-Timer !

coffee he he he


When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
 
Posts: 2542 | Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada | Registered: 05 June 2005Reply With Quote
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Just a bit of safety info to share.
Lost a good friend last year that was an automotive engine machinist. Did a lot of crankshaft grinding. He was 72. Died of bad lungs, just couldn't get air, not cancer, just the cells were plugged up. He blamed it on using a spray mist coolant on several machines.

Using liquid and not spray just may extend your life a bit.

George


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LM: NRA, DAV,

George L. Dwight
 
Posts: 6083 | Location: Pueblo, CO | Registered: 31 January 2006Reply With Quote
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