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One of Us |
For the average shooter who is lapping rings only for himself, which lapping tool 1" or 30 mm? Are most scopes 30 mm or 1 inch? Or, should a guy just buy both tools? Reloaders Haul Brass! | ||
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one of us |
Most scopes are 1". Remember, forgivness is easier to get than permission. | |||
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Most US scopes used to have 1" tubes. European scopes used to be built with 30mm tubes. These days, the picture is not as clearcut. US makers like Leupold and Burris (and others, I'm sure) sell 30mm scopes in addition to their traditional 1" products. European scope manufacturers have product lines aimed at the US market, which normally have 1" tubes. So, there is no clearcut answer. If you want to be prepared for all scopes and all eventualities, buy both tools. If you can only swing one for the moment, buy a 1" tool - and stay with 1" scopes. - mike ********************* The rifle is a noble weapon... It entices its bearer into primeval forests, into mountains and deserts untenanted by man. - Horace Kephart | |||
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One of Us |
If you are doing it for yourself then obviously you should buy the size that fits your rings. I have both the “lapping†tools and the reamers for both sizes and I find that the reamers work far quicker, better, and its much easier to clean up afterward since you don’t have all that damn lapping compound all over the place. | |||
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one of us |
Or you can just buy Burris "Signature" Rings with the Synthetic Inserts and not need to Lap the Rings at all. That is what I've done ever since I used my first Signature set. In addition to the normal Redfield Style and Dual Dovetail Style, they even make them in a Style for good old Weaver Bases. | |||
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One of Us |
Since I’m one of those weirdo’s that doesn’t swap scopes and rings all over the place, I bed my scopes with Devcon to a specific set of rings that stay with that scope forever. That way I know that the rings are applying even gripping pressure and making full contact with the scope tube. Lapped or unlapped, rings do not always mate evenly with the scope tube and can create pressure points when tightened down. | |||
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Not true for the Burris Signatures. The Synthetic Inserts float within the Rings until the Ring Screws are tightened. Then they self-align with the scope tube "applying even gripping pressure and making full contact with the scope tube". No Devcon, tape, lapping compound, rosin, glue, cement, road tar or concrete is needed. Burris also has available "Eccentric Inserts" which can help with all kinds of minor and major problems. If for some reason you get a rifle with the holes drilled a bit off, or if the barrel is not properly square with the receiver, the Eccentric Inserts will cure the problem where the Lapped Rings don't even come close. The absolutely most wonderful benefit of the Eccentric Rings(for me) is using them to gain additional Scope Elevation without having to screw the adjustments to the extreme ends, as you have to do with Lapped Rings. You just put the Eccentric Inserts in so the rear of the Scope is elevated, the front is lowered, or both(if the barrel clearance and rifle stock allows doing it). This is not an advantage for anyone whose shots are inside 400yds or so, but when you shoot at distance, this benefit is significant. And the Non-Maring Synthetic Inserts have a tenacious grip on the Scope Tube. 300WinMags, 338WinMags and 350WinMags eliminate "Scope Slippage" by using them which is not always true for the very outdated Lapped Rings and Scopes with Large Objectives(large mass). Burris Signature Rings are the Next Generation Ring Design, which are available for us to use today, at an affordable price. The only reason more people don't use them is they just don't know or understand how they work. If you see a set on a rifle, it becomes real clear why they are what I use today. | |||
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one of us |
Lapping scope rings by the general public can cause about as many problems as not lapping them...just be sure and knock off the edges or you end up with oversize rings..Some folks just won't quit lapping. The other thing is the difference in scope tubes, got to watch that. not all 1" scopes are one inch on accurate dial calipers. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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One of Us |
HotCore, Agreed. I was referring to rings without any inserts. Unless a guys uses his scope tube as a lapping tool (not real practical or a good idea) the finished product will be rings that are perfectly mated to the tool, not necessarily to his scope. That’s why I bed my scopes to a set of rings that stay with them...but that may not be practical for a guy that swaps scopes and rings between different rifles. For someone that does that the Burris rings are probably a good choice. | |||
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one of us |
What do you mean by "probably" pilgrim? --- By golly, I do believe Mr. Ray has hit on a VERY relevant issue - over Lapping. Excellent Point which can create more Black Electrical Tape sales. Having had to live through all the Ring Designs of the past, I sure do love these "new" designs. I still like the old Weaver Rings that put a slight "twist" on the scope when you snug them up. Those were the first Style I ever tried mounting myself many years ago and I do believe I nearly wore out the screws getting the scope just right. Liked the old Redfield style until I started using Large Objective scopes. If you had the Rear Ring tight enough to hold the scope, occasionally the Ring would "tear through" the Two Horizontal Adjustment/Rear Ring Holding screws due to the HIGH Mass wanting to remain where it is at the time of the shot. Pitiful and aggravating until you figure out what is happening. Then to Dual Dovetail Mounts which work pretty good for a scope you use inside 400yds. Look good and are solid. But, none are as good as the Synthetic Insert Burris Signatures, no "probably" about it. Semper Fi! | |||
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I've been guilty of this, Ray, what do you mean by "knocking off the edges?" Thanks, Rob | |||
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I lapp my rings. The tcatical rings I install on my rigs are very strong, and WILL crush a scope tube. Lapping them, ONCE SEATED CORRECTLY SPACED ON THE RAIL, will keep the rings from pinching the tube and binding the internals. It will also virtually illiminate ring marks when done properly as a result. The ring lapping is more a function of aligning the rings to the centerline of the action. Many times in todays world of highest profit at lowest cost, actions have their scope base holes drilled OUT of line with the bore in a fashion of haste. The lapping of the rings when placed on the bases, ESPECIALLY 2 peice bases, helps to align the edges of the rings where they will pinch the scope to keep the rings from pinching the scope. If the rings are to remain forever, then bedding them is a great option,..but I go through guns, so I can't afford the bed them when the same tacical picatinny base may not be available from the same manufacturer for the next action that glass is placed on,..so lapping the rings is how I keep mine from impinging on my internals. I use the sinlcair tools for both 1" and 30mm and the best part is that the NON EMBEDDING compound that comes with them can be used to lapp rough bores as well. Difficulty is inevitable Misery is optional | |||
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Conetrols don't need lapping, are windage adustable front and rear, can be aligned directly over the bore, won't twist the scope tube and are as strong as anything available. The scope is low, you can get bases to properly fit on almost anything and they look good as well - why have ugly scope mounts when you don't have to? | |||
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One of Us |
I agree with Hot Core. I now have Burris Signature rings on two rifles, and will use them on any new rifle that I purchase. NO ring marks. By the way, I have a Brownells Ring Lapping kit that is almost like new that I would sell for a few bucks less than I paid for it if anyone is interested. | |||
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