I have several Burris base/rings systems on my Contenders. This morning I am trying to remove a couple of scopes and put them on different barrels

The Burris rings use a Torx screw (15). The problem: The screws are so tight that I keep breaking the tip off of the torx wrench. I have broken 2 and have one left. I suspect it will break also. I have tried penetrating oil. These screws WERE NOT put in place with Locktite so I don’t understand how they got so tight.

Any help to get them out would be appreciated. Thanks…BCB

Liquid Wrench? Kroil?

Even without Loc-Tite, you can crank down on Torx screws pretty dang hard. Guys don't realize the ring screws don't have to be set by two men & a small boy hanging on the end of the wrench.

Try setting your wrench firmly in place, tapping lightly with a small hammer (or big, depending on your frustration level at the time ), and backing them out. With some help (or a padded vise), try to tap as you turn the wrench.

I know, it's a frustrating spot to be in. Just don't make any stupid mistakes by getting mad & in a hurry.

the tapping thing might work.. but you'll have to RAP it pretty well.

1ut your work in a PADDED vise.
2: align it perfectly up and down
3: place torx in it, and ensure that it's PERFECTLY vertical
4: RAP it with a wooden, rawhide, or deadblow hammer to far it
5: attempt to back it out.

if it breaks, get a couple of the torx bits from craftsman, and try them. thry are rather hard.

jeffe

Tapping while turning can be very effective (think about the impact guns they use in a garage)...Also, as mentioned, try and find a really good quality Torx head tool, preferably one on a ratchet...Lot's o' cheap ones out there, work fine for many things, but I doubt you could break a "good" one...I've seriously abused, both Craftsman and Snap-On, never broken one

Another option is the hand impact driver. You should be able to find it at Sears. I used them several times a days as a motorcycle mechanic. They work by converting a hammer blow to a twisting motion. It looks somewhat like a big handle screwdriver. You put it in the screw and give it a whack with a hammer and it drive the bit in tighter along with twisting to loosen the screw. It is extremely effective.

Start with quality tools. Is there any way you can compress the side of your scope rings. Try to take some pressure of the screw. One other way is to try screwing one of the torxs in first, then back out the others.

Thanks to all who replied…I attempted all the advise and still ended up making a call to the local ‘Smith! He attempted all the same methods as was advised to me…He already knew about such problems…

He finally drilled the screws out. He indicated that he had seen this before and was uncertain as to why it happens. Regardless the ‘scope has been removed and another one put in place.

NOW THEN, I still have two other ‘scopes to remove from other Contender barrels that I have and I am a bit scared to attempt it!!! Oh well, it must be done someday…

Thanks to all who replied…BCB

Try "tapping while turning" the way dfaugh told you, but first warm the metal that surrounds the screw. The idea is to get the metal around the screw to warm-up so it can expand, and at the same time keep the screw cool. You don't want to over-heat the metal and damage the scope; all you want to do is to rapidly warm the metal on the base around the screw.

You may be able to accomplish that with a soldering iron, but let the iron get very hot first.

IF the rings are aluminum and the screws are steel, heating the rings will indeed make the aluminum expand...making the screw all the tighter, since the aluminum under the head will try to stretch the screw. If the rings were installed in the winter, this could be your whole problem to start with. Since you know they were not locktited, try putting the whole assembly in the freezer for a few hours (to overnight), and try to take them loose with it cold. the aluminum will shrink back more than the steel screw will and possibly releive some of the tension on the screws.

It seems like guys just get these screws a little tighter than they intended. When you are turning a screw in it will tighten up while it is in motion to a point that requires less effort than it takes to start the screw from this point. (static friction AKA stiction!)Once these screws are tightened up and set you can easily break all kinds of Craftsman and Snap-on bits.
One method that usually works (though the screw is forever altered)is to drive a suitably sized Robertson bit into the screw. The same trick works on those rounded out Allen head screws. I personally think the Torx screw may be proof that the Devil is still active here on Earth. Regards, Bill

Use a little SPIT (or DROOL) to loosen the screws like we use hear (specially Dewey):

Dewey Cheetum & Howe
Custom Gunsmiths

The heat thing is the trick. Heat the screw, cool the ring. I like the freezer thing and then use a fine tip soldering iron on the screw head to warm it up.At this point try anything short of drilling. mvm

BCB..So what worked for you? I allways need more tools for my tool box. mvm

Just wanted to second the impact driver. Non mechanics rarely know what I'm talking about, it's a marvelous tool. You hit the end of it while turning, it gives a turn like an impact gun, but more in control. You will need a quality Torks Socket drive head. Snap On makes great expensive tools, Sears Craftsman is good too.

Ya'll WRONG, put the torx bit in a battery powered drill and set the moment for a middle value. It'll take from seconds to minutes but the constant rapping to the bit eventually will free the screw!
Henrik

using the soldering iron tip has been a winner around here!!--maybe combine it with the electric screwdriver--when the job is done have a beer and celebrate!

Our policy around here is why wait until AFTER the job is done!

D, C, & H
Custom Gunsmiths