Hope someone can help me with my problem. Just mounted Weaver bases to my new Savage 11F in .223, then mounted a Scopechief 4-14 using Weaver rings. The problem is that I can't adjust the elevation high enough on the scope. I switched the bases then the mounts around but no real solution. Do I need to shim the front mount to gain more room for scope adjustment or is there another solution. If I must shim, what do you suggest? Thanks-karl

If you need more elevation, you would need to shim the rear base.

you have to shim the rear mount, but if it is not a one piece base, you will misalign the rings in the vertical plane.

-tincan

I have shimmed mounts up and down and it seems to work. Some here say the alignment will mess things up but the guns shot well. Perhaps there is a mount base that's a little higher?

Weaver makes one piece bases that only cost about ten bucks. I have not looked to see if there is one for that rifle. Then you could keep your rings.

An expensive way to do it but first class is to get Burris Signature Zee rings and buy the eccentric inserts. Might as well get the Weaver steel bases then too. All that's going to be a $60 bill.

Thanks for the help guys-I just got the bases and rings today so am not yet wanting to replace with Burris rings, etc. Would like to experiment with shims, if for nothing else than for the heck of it. As such what do you suggest for shim material? Thanks-Karl

The sides of aluminum beverage cans are easy to cut. Two or three of them might do it.

This may be a simplistic answer and I'm not trying to insult or anything but do the bases match the model of rifle they are mounted on? I traded for a Howa rifle and it shot way low and to the left and I ran out of scope adjustment trying to bring it up and right enough. As soon as I figured out what was going on and got the correct bases the rifle shot fine. I think on that model the front should be #46 and the rear should be #61, but I'm dredging this up from memory and could be wrong. There is a table in the Midway master catalog that will list the correct numbers for your Savage rifle.

If it is like my new 112BVSS. Savage changed the aft reciever bridge. It now takes two 46 bases.
Lyle

Yunan-Could you please elaborate, how do you mean two bases? Now I am really confused!! Karl

In 2003 savage changed all their riflers from the old style round reciever in front, flattened reciever in the rear to the new style round reciever front and rear. The new savages use a # 46 weaver base front and rear now.(If you need an extension base use a weaver #402).

I glass bed scope mounts.
When I must shim, I use narrow shims to make more room for the epoxy.
When there are two mounts, it is a big problem to get them lined up while the epoxy is soft, so the rings will not need lapping. Some scope rings work better as a fixture than others. The worst are ones the rotate when tightened.

After the epoxy sets up, I tighten the mount screws.

Clark-What material do you use for a shim. I've been to the local hardware store and couldn't find anything suitable. Alternately do any of you guys know which front sight is just a bit thicker than the #46? Did same playing last night and found by lifting the scope manually it would work better on the bore-sighter. Thanks-Karl

I got this 15 piece assortment from Enco when it was on sale



I also got rolls of .0015" and .004" shim steel in Precision steel wharehouse brand at a gun show.



There are quite a few products that come up under a 'shim' search at Enco:

http://www.use-enco.com



I have temporarily used 3 layers of masking tape under a Weaver #46 to get a 1903 Turk Mauser to sight in.



I have been compiling the heigth difference between the rear mounting surface and the large ring in different Mausers:



mystery 7mm .067"

Spanish '93 .081"

1903 Turk .123"

K98 .151"

VZ24 .165"

1938 Turk .171"



I have not finished the study.

Someone took my book with Weaver mount specs, and it gave thicknesses instead of bottom center to center of Weaver wedge. I do know that a #46 in front and #45 in rear works for VZ24s, but a #46 in front and #55 in rear is better in the 1903 Turk. The 1903 needs shim in front with #45 in the rear.



When I cut shims with sheet metal sheers, I grind off the burr.

A shim with a ground off burr is allot like a razor blade.

Be careful.



Having just the right shim or shims under a mount is not needed. The idea is to just get into the mid range of the scope's vertical adjustment. When shimming the tailstock assembly of a lathe to compensate for wear, then worry about .001".