Yep I need help breaking something. You guys that know me will find that hard to believe

I went to open and clean an old America Gun Co, New York double 12ga side lock yesterday and it wouldn't break open. I would move the lever to the point I feared I would break off or at least bend the crap out of it.
As you can see it is a side lock with exposed hammers so it is not a cocking issue.


I removed the long screw from the right side. It holds the top lever in place as well as provides a pivot point for what looks to be a pivot lever between the upper lever and bolt.





As I work the top lever I can see the pivot lever try to function. The pivot lever will lift part way out of the top then hits resistance and I didn't force it.

I "assume" the round pin I can see in the back of the action is the rear of the bolt. I have used penetrating oil as well as moderate heat to try and free it.


The shotgun functioned fine the last time I took it out to clean. But that was probably 2-3 years ago. It just sits in the back of the safe.

I'm open to suggestions. I'm stumped

Paul, see if you can find a parts blow-up for a Creasent Arms shotgun. As this is the copmany who made your shotgun. Creasent Arms put over a hunderd differnt names on their guns.(hardware brands)

Are both firing pins free and not hitting the extractor?

Keith

Keith I'll look for a creasent Arms. As to the pins I pulled both sides they are free. It isn't like it starts to open it is tight. If that 1/2" dia pin I'm looking at is in fact the bolt there is no movement at all. Looking at the stock it has a opening cut out to allow rearward movement of that pin.

Update: That 1/2 in pin IS the locking bolt. I would let it soak with a little Blaster PB or other such oil while waiting for better idea of how to get it moved. In the meantime I will do a little searching.

Per Numrich that would be Cresent.

They showed a parts schematic and the round pin is the rear of the locking bolt. And the top lever and bolt are connected by a top lever arm.

For now I'll leave it soaking.

quote:

Originally posted by ramrod340:
Per Numrich that would be Cresent.

They showed a parts schematic and the round pin is the rear of the locking bolt. Ane the top lever and bolt are connected by a top lever arm.

For now I'll leave it soaking.

Try tapping that little lever arm down to see if you can get the locking bolt to move. Of course it would help to have the thing here.

quote:

Of course it would help to have the thing here.

I doubt this old thing is worth the shipping to get it there.

I've tried moving the lever forward or back with the pivot screw in place it and removed. With it in place it almost looks like the lever bottoms out to the front at the top. I may have bent it yeaterday trying to push the top lever over.

If all else fails. Centre punch the locking bolt, drill and tap a short thread into the rear of it for a small bolt which will give you something to lever against to pull that siezed locking bolt rearwards. Better still make up a small collar to act as a puller for use with the small bolt.

quote:

If all else fails. Centre punch the locking bolt, drill and tap a short thread into the rear of it for a small bolt which will give you something to lever against to pull that siezed locking bolt rearwards. Better still make up a small collar to act as a puller for use with the small bolt.

Hog Killer and I were on the phone about a hour ago discussing that as a last option.

Get the top lever spring off & out of the way. You have to get the connector rod/link between the top lever and the bolt out before you try to take the bolt itself out or the bolt won't be able to slide out.

Take a very strong C clamp and with wooden pieces to protect the top & bottom metal,,clamp the barrels shut as close to the receiver edge as possible. You'd think they are as tight as they can be right now, but a clamp can squeeze them just a couple .ooo" and that is all that's needed sometimes to allow the bolt and it's engagement surface to free up and get some wiggle room for you to work it out of there.

You can make a tool to use as a lever in place of that link to pry the bolt back in the same manner that the orig part does the job. Nothing special, just something that you can get in there from the top and get some leverage with.

A few well placed raps with a lead hammer to the front face of the receiver will sometimes help to loosen the bolt. Carefull not to damage any protuding part like the extractor engagement arm or hit the barrels them selves.

quote:

You have to get the connector rod/link between the top lever and the bolt out before you try to take the bolt itself out or the bolt won't be able to slide out.

What direction should that lever be removed? Should it lift out the top?