I am restoring a really beat up Mod 94 Swedish mauser carbine.Had to install new carbine barrel and a new bolt.I am removing the rear sight sleeve that is soldered on and am thinking of using some form of epoxy or loc tite for installing sight on new barrel. What would you recommend? Mori

Solder; that is how it is held on. Period. Do it right or forget it. No glue. Soldering is easy; do it just like you solder copper water pipes, which I assume everyone can do.

I've done a couple using plain ol' JB Weld. The barrels were later rust blued and the boiling didn't effect it a bit. IIRC, cured JB will stand up to 600 degrees or so before it starts to break down.

Sure, glue will hold but why not do it the original, correct, way? It is not like you have to do some sort of exotic gunsmithing work here.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Soldering is easy; do it just like you solder copper water pipes, which I assume everyone can do.

Try as I might, I haven't been able to crack the code on soldering steel. I can solder copper pipe like a champ, joints literally drink up molten solder like sucking soda through a straw, but every time I've tried on steel the stuff beads up and falls off. I have tired several different kinds of flux and solder, and varying heat levels to no avail. I don't think they are the same, and I have given up trying.

Mori- It can be done, has been done for at least a century. Has everything to do with proper heat, flux and alloy selection. I used to regularly solder to stainless as well. Not easy, but the trick was not to overheat the stainless, lest it "char." With low carbon steels, "tinning" the parts is key. I believe you can see this done very simply in one of the videos that you can access on the Midway, USA website. As DPCD said- this is really the "right" way. The good news is unless you get way too high on your heat, you can't do too much that can't be corrected.

Good luck.

Doug

Soldering barrel bands on is just like soldering copper pipe. If you are getting beads, you might have heated the flux too hot and once it is scorched, it won't work. Clean, flux, tin if you want, but on a sleeve arrangement, it will suck up solder just like pipe.
If you really can't do it, send it to me and I will solder it for you free.

The Newer silver bearing lead-free plumbing solders with a high tin content and the proper flux actually work better than the old 50/50 Tin/Lead plumbing solder with acid based flux.

I had a Swede that the rear sight sleeve was not straight and not having the original solder or wanting to play with acid based flux AND seeing that the parts were already "tinned"...


as for Loctite strip any heat sensitive parts (wood or plastic)
and put the metal bits into a 450F oven