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Model 70 Classic .300 Win Mag to .375 H&H Magnum..
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Gentlemen,
I have a .375 H&H project in the near future and I've been strongly thinking about using an early M70 Claissic Super Grade in .300 Winchester Magnum as a base receiver. Is there anything beside a .375 H&H follower, Magazine Box, and ejector that needs to to be done for this conversion? Your input would be greatly appreciated...

Regards, Matt.
 
Posts: 525 | Location: Virginia | Registered: 26 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Matt, here is what I would have done over and above the fine tuning and blueprinting of the action.

-Magazine box and follower from Blackburn
-Open the ejection port
-Replace the extractor with a unit from Wisner or Williams
-Shorten the bolt stop
-Have the rear of the feed rails milled parrallel to the forward portion of the rails.
-Have the portion of the action directly behind the box modified to insure propper trouble free loading and feeding.

Chuck
 
Posts: 2659 | Location: Southwestern Alberta | Registered: 08 March 2003Reply With Quote
<allen day>
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Matt, I agree with what Chuck has outlined.



One thing I've learned about custom rifles over the last 24 years is that it NEVER pays to plan a project, then start cutting corners to achieve a lower cost. ALWAYS invest in the very best components that you can come up with. Don't compromise on stock selection, barrel make, bottommetal, etc. Always replace inferior factory parts with better aftermarket parts, and pay attention to each little detail, each little part.



Guys tend to recycle rifles (customs included) because they never really got it right the first time, and usually because they found out that the upgrades they should have invested in the first time around were pretty important options after all. False ecomony never pays......



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This is so true, I have been down the custom rifle road a number of times and used to be guided by "gunsmith's" recommendations, to my subsequent regret and sale of an expensive but inadequate rifle, this gets to be a real fuggin p.i.t.a. The problem is that many gunsmiths are not active big game hunters and thus do not understand what is really required in a specialized mountain rifle or DGR, the rifle types most useful in B.C. hunting conditions.

So, the advice Allen gives here is actually beneficial in economic terms as well as Chuck's comments being practical with respect to making sure that the thing functions properly. I now plan each rifle project like a military campaign because I only want rifles thhat WORK all the time. If, a gunsmith won't do things my way, I go elsewhere because it's my money and my rifle!
 
Posts: 1379 | Location: British Columbia | Registered: 02 October 2004Reply With Quote
<allen day>
posted
Kutenay, I agree with you. My experience with many gunsmiths is abysmal. It seems as though many of them come in two grades: They're either all a-twitter over cosmetic fluff and 'Blessed Tradition' -- at the sacrifice of all other considerations -- or else all they understand is a group of holes on paper off the bench at 100 yds. With this last bunch, feeding, balance, stock design, and everything else just doesn't seem to register.

Either way, if they don't hunt, you, as a client, are in trouble if a great and functional rifle is what you seek. I've had some of these Bozos argue with me to no end over functional and logistical issues related to design and detail that they had absolutely no experience in the field with and never would. With these wannabes, I invariably take my business elsewhere........

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Chuck, what's the purpose of the last 3 items you listed? And how do they contribute to the overall function of the action/rifle?

Thanks!
 
Posts: 198 | Registered: 19 November 2002Reply With Quote
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Matt,

Think your sights over real good, if you plan to have open sights in addition to optic. Which brings in the question of bases for QD rings, and the change of hole spacing if you open up the ejection port, resulting in wiping out the front rear hole. Most go for an 8 x 40 over the factory 6 x 48 when taking these steps with the bases. It helps to know what scope you are going to mount as well, due to considerations of tube length.

HBH
 
Posts: 596 | Registered: 17 December 2003Reply With Quote
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Matt's project is sounding pretty expensive, in comparison to selling his existing Model 70 and buying a good new rifle in .375 H&H.
 
Posts: 189 | Location: San Jose, CA | Registered: 02 January 2003Reply With Quote
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The bolt stop needs to be shortened to allow the bolt to travel rearward enough to find the back of the longer box. On a 30-06 accomodating action the rearward portion of the feed rails tail inward, a non problem with a blocked magazine box. With the longer box, however, these tails prevent a cartridge from being dumped directly into the rear of the box and need to be taken care of. Also, the portion of the action directly behind the box needs a little dishing to prevent the base of the cartridge from hanging up, comming up in the box to meet the rails, and being passed over by the bolt.

Chuck
 
Posts: 2659 | Location: Southwestern Alberta | Registered: 08 March 2003Reply With Quote
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Matt,

I have seen a few push feed Model 70s in 300 Winchester changed to 375 H&H and the following done.

Back of the rails ground straight as Chuck suggested.

Shortened bolt stop.

375 magazine box and follower from Winchester.

Feeding was far from reliable with the cartidges tending to all pop up from the magazine if the bolt was pull back quick and hard.

Whether this would apply to the CRF Model 70s I don't know.

It is probably quite different in America to Australia but I would be very wary of making a gun in a calibre that was not close to the original. The 375 is very different to the 300 Win in that the 375 shoulder diameter is about equal to the 270 Win.

Mike
 
Posts: 7206 | Location: Sydney, Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks Chuck!
 
Posts: 198 | Registered: 19 November 2002Reply With Quote
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