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I'm picking away @ an 8X68 project. I have a 1904 Portuguese trigger gaurd & a "straddle" floorplate for the magazine lengthening project. I know the CIP O.A.L. for the 8X68S is 3.425" but I would like to go a bit longer, perhaps 3.60" for a bit more powder space in the case. I want an internal magazine length of 3.65 so I will have to lengthen the box by about .325" I'm thinking I should go .125 to the front & about .200" to the rear. Does this sound like the best route? GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | ||
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Bump: I have searched the net for info on this & can only find a thread (that is excellent BTW) on lengthening to the front. http://www.mausercentral.com/f...624bf253e5baa#233776 I don't want to take all of it out of the front though. I think .125" would be about it to leave enough meat in the feed ramp area. Since the 1904 Poetuguese magazine is a hinged floorplate W/a trigger gaurd release, it seems it would be a simple matter of welding a plate about .187 onto the rear. Taking out the .120" wall of the existing box + another .080" would give me the desired .200 extra length & still leave .100" wall thickness. I could then remove some material from the bolt stop & mill the opening in the bottom of the receiver a bit. The Weisman straddle floorplate would cover the added length @ the rear. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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This topic usually starts a fight between the the "only to the rear" school of thought and the "a little from front and back" school. The FN Supreme and Zastaza/Mk X/Charles Daly/Rem 798 actions are opend slightly in the front and some in the back. The standard magazine for the 458 and 375 has the nose cut off and an extension welded to it. Last I checked, almost (if not all) of the aftermarket bottoms for 375-length mauser conversions are opend up to the rear only. So I can only assume that most people who do the conversion prefer to open the action to the rear and shorten the ejector. "Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson. | |||
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Thanks for the reply. Since I have alread started the "front" expansion work I wiil continue W/that. Your post has given me the green light to also do the rear end alteration. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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First let me say that there is a huge amount of variation in the magazine well of different Mausers, so this will account for some of the variation in our measurements..... But the part I highlighted in red is 100% wrong IME. PME, Blackburn and Wiebe all open the action MORE towards the front than to the rear. I will get my measurements out when I have some time, but IIRC when comparing to a commercial FN in 30-06 the Blackburn would require removal of +-.150 in the front and +-.065 to the rear and the PME was a bit less in the front(+-.125) and more to the rear(+-.085?). Duane Wiebe has stated that his units remove mostly from the front and only remove .040 from the rear. Keep in mind that this is all from memory. But barring major modifications you cannot remove enough from the bolt stop to "open a mauser only to the rear". Just can't be done as the bolt stop is only about a quarter of an inch thick to start. Jason "You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core." _______________________ Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt. Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure. -Jason Brown | |||
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Wouldn't argue with that as my experience was many years ago trying to find custom bottom metal that fit a MK X 375 action. I had to cut the nose out of some Sunny Hill because none of the available units would bridge the mag well opening as-is. "Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson. | |||
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I think it's an old wives' tale to "open a Mauser only to the rear" as there just isn't clearance to do so. Remove the bolt of an unaltered standard M98, lay a 375 length round in the magazine with the tip of the bullet at the feed ramp and look where the rim end of the case is. ______________________________ "Truth is the daughter of time." Francis Bacon | |||
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My Belgian gunsmith converted 98K in 280 Remington is opened only to the front. | |||
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You have a relationship with Ted, so it would be great if you could ask him. IIRC he told me that his units are opened to the front and rear, and my measurement confirm this. Also, you are comparing it to a .375 length mark-x which dose not have the same port as a military action. It is a long running misnomer that the Mark-X was opened only in front. Jason "You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core." _______________________ Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt. Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure. -Jason Brown | |||
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All I had to do to get my 8mm-06 A.I. to 3.375" magazine length was thin the rear wall to .060" (it's about .120" to start with) Getting "06" length from a standard length LR Mauser is a piece of cake. No need to touch the front wall. I'm needing @ least 3.50" & would like 3.65. From the points made in earlier posts I'm thinking of adding .120" @ the rear & .190" @ the front. That should get me to 3.625" starting W/the 3.315" 1904 Portuguese bottom metal. That should be more than ample for loading the bullets out on the 8X68S. That should be plenty GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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When I did my 404 on a 1950's FN I filed half the thickness from the rear of the box and cut the front out by runing the saw paralell with the sides and put a new front in ahead of the origional front. Didn't have to alter the bolt stop. 100% fit and function. Von Gruff. | |||
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Here's what I found RE: lengthening to the front. Although, for the life of me I don't see why all this would be necessaryt for "06" length cartridges when a simple thinning of the rear wall by .060" would sufice. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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It's often said that cutting the front reduces the strength of the locking recess. Anyone ever hear of it causing a problem ?, I havent. Good luck! | |||
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I have seen a photo of lug set-back due to over zealous tapering/thinning of the ramp after lengthening the magazine box opening in the receiver. That was, IMO, a "brain fart" issue rather than a magzine lengthening affecting the action strength issue. Too much material was removed behind the locking lug recess. The ramp was thinned to a sharp edge @ the top. There was insufficient material left to take the stress of chamber pressure. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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I have seen "06" length after market bottom metal that achieved the added length from the rear by extending the rear wall by the thickness of the OEM item (.120"?)& leaving the extension that normally protrudes up to the bolt face off. That is, the top of the rear wall butts up (near but not touching)the reciever opening. I know for a fact that the bolt stop can be ground to allow the bolt face to come back far enough to clear the reciever opening. I thought that would be a good place to start. Then adding a 3/16" plate to the front as in the link I posted above would allow me to take out another .190" & leave as much material as the original front wall less a few thousandths. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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Back to the roots. What was done in Oberndorf. The inner length of the magazine box for the 30-06 and Brennecke 7x64 was 88mm compared to the standard 84mm .The box was longer at the front side!! only. So they thought to be on the safe side removing 4 additional mm of the ramp . BTW the Brennecke was not just a low pressure cartridge. | |||
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That 4mm (.160") difference is exactly the amount of additional length built into the front of the "intermediate length" LR 98 magazine box. (M48 Yugo, VZ500, etc.)I would suspect that the SR 98s are similar. After all, the "intermediate length" LR 98 is built on the SR length. Those actions are .250" shorter than the "standard length" LR 98s. In comparison, the magazine box is only .090" shorter. 3.225" compared to 3.315". .250 - .090" = .160" Coincidence? I don't think so. GOOGLE HOTLINK FIX FOR BLOCKED PHOTOBUCKET IMAGES https://chrome.google.com/webs...inkfix=1516144253810 | |||
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The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Lengthening The 98 Magazine...to the front..rear..or both?
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