I have a gun stock on a 1840 era rifle that I need to finish in the style of that time. Need some idea what was used, I have come up with linseed oil, shellac and some others I never heard of. So any ideas??? But nothing definite.

super blond shellac will impart the least amount of color.

Need more info. Like manufacturer, model, caliber, etc. Linseed oil was by far the go to during that period. Shellac was sometimes used as a sealer, less often as a final finish. Varnishes were also used. They were made by adding ground fir rosin to simmering linseed oil. Then, hardwood ash was added to act as a drier. This was cooked for a time until thickened. It could then be rubbed in by hand or thinned in turpentine and brushed on. This finish is still used today to finish violins and other wooden stringed instruments.

quote:

Originally posted by Rolland:
I have a gun stock on a 1840 era rifle that I need to finish in the style of that time. Need some idea what was used, I have come up with linseed oil, shellac and some others I never heard of. So any ideas??? But nothing definite.

quote:

Need more info. Like manufacturer, model, caliber, etc. Linseed oil was by far the go to during that period. Shellac was sometimes used as a sealer, less often as a final finish. Varnishes were also used. They were made by adding ground fir rosin to simmering linseed oil. Then, hardwood ash was added to act as a drier. This was cooked for a time until thickened. It could then be rubbed in by hand or thinned in turpentine and brushed on. This finish is still used today to finish violins and other wooden stringed instruments

Bob
It a replica of a rifle made by J Browning 1846 called the slide or harmonica rifle. has a butt stock only no forearm.

Is this it?

https://www.alloutdoor.com/wp-...rmonica-rifle-01.jpg

If it is, it appears to be many coats of hand rubbed-in BLO to a filled finish.

Bob

I like shelac as a grain filler then linseed oil. Real Tung oil is said to be the ultimate oil finish, but the problem is most products sold as tung oil... aren't. They are mostly fake blends and just give a run of the mill poly finish. At least with boiled linseed oil you know you will get an oil finish and not some phony concoction, but it does have its downside.

quote:

Originally posted by Bobster:
Is this it?

https://www.alloutdoor.com/wp-...rmonica-rifle-01.jpg

If it is, it appears to be many coats of hand rubbed-in BLO to a filled finish.

Bob

Bob
Very simular mine is the underhammer version, its the first one he made. All steel no brass.

I never try to use any original finish even on an old rifle. We have far better finishes now, and can replicate a shellac or linseed finish, neither of which will protect wood.

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Originally posted by dpcd:
I never try to use any original finish even on an old rifle. We have far better finishes now, and can replicate a shellac or linseed finish, neither of which will protect wood.

This rifle will most likely go on display so it needs to be as close to the period finish as possible.

I found I have a jar of Linspeed oil finish, has anyone used this product and will it give an oil finish as opposed to poly type finish??

I believe that is just linseed oil with some thinner to help it set up a bit quicker.
What I like about an oil finish is it may not seal the wood like a poly coat perse, but just like with a wood fence or any exterior wood, later coats will revive it. Poly coats tent to crack and scratch then you need to start all over again just like with exterior paint.

stripped and finished a Ruger 44 with Linspeed.

I believe Linspeed is an alkyd modified linseed oil, to promote faster drying. Similar to TruOil. I have a couple of rifles I did with it over 30 years ago and they are still going strong. The beauty of shellac and drying oils is that they are repairable. Just like rust blues. Modern gunstock finishes look great out of the box but cannot be repaired without a complete refinish. I would not have a gun with that finish.

Tests were done many years ago, before polyurethanes, that compared BLO and shellac to spar varnish (virtually waterproof alkyd varnish). BLO was only 75% resistant to moisture, but shellac was surprisingly 97% resistant. Best behind spar varnish. Old books I have describe a shellac sealer topped by BLO, then waxed to provide a waterproof finish. Annually refreshed with wax.