gentlemen,
i have the above rifle. i obtained it with a stripped bolt and no trigger.
i added a bold trigger( no safety), assembeled the bolt with 98 mauser parts plus a low scope safety.
gun has issues.
1)safety will not engage....cocking does not move the cocking pc back far enough to engage.
2)will not cock on bolt lift, must open bolt and close to cock.
3) there is a drag over the trigger as the bolt open, that actually sounds / feels like it is caught on something(and there does not appear to be anything to catch on)

when closing the bolt, an raised amount of effort is required on the last 3/4-1" of forward movement.

quite open to suggestions.......

help

thanks
mike in co

Somebody needs to help Mike.
Butch

Start with #4, it will let you check out # 1 at the same time

1. Is the front of the opening of the trigger guard binding the trigger, open the front up to 1/8" to get clearance. Repeat in and out of the stock.

2. Is the distance between the bottom of the receiver and the top of the bottom metal less the the size of the Bold Trigger frame or major dimension.

3. Is the opening in the stock large enough for the trigger mechanism ( clearance front, back, sides)?

4. Will the trigger and bolt operate normally with the action, trigger and bottom metal bolted up outside of the stock?

I don't know if all of those check out.

If the bolt is metal color, not bled, and you do not have Dykem, color it with "Magic Marker" and see where the binding removes color.

Is there a reason why the bolt as stripped and there was no trigger?

Look at the surfaces of the locking lugs and ty to take a gander up front at the engaging surfaces of the receiver.

If it will cock and bolt is easy to open with trigger pulled back, the cocking piece may be the problem....If all else fails, take it to a real gunsmith

well tc is from my home board>>>cast boolits....
and butch is from second place...benchrest central.
so thanks to both.
i do not have binding front to back that i can see/detect.
the only contact i have detected is the sear(top of the trigger) is touching the bolt...the forward part of the cocking pc.

i will call the smith at cz rifles and see if i can get a new factory cocking pc.

i'll try a stockless assembly too

thanks...still listening.
( the rifle was an as is project from a deceased gun smith...missing parts were not located)

mike

If you want to, send it to me and I will give a hands on evaluation and it won't cost anything but return shipping or parst if needed. I do enjoy working on Mausers.

Jim

ok , this am i tried a yogo m48a bolt, and it works almost 100%.
the issue seems to be the bolt body, rear profile/contour where the cocking pc meets the body.
the 48 is straght across at the point, then tapers off at 45 or so.
the mk10 bolt body is under cut.shorter by about 0.14 and then tapers off.
so this is why it will not cock on opening, and why the safety does not engage.
it would appear i need an original yugo interarms mk x cocking pc, build up the body to match the mil yugo bolt or ???

still listening
mike in co

Have you determined the "age" of the bolt. The new Mark X's have a "speed-lock" bolt and sear (cocking piece), one is not compatable with the other. The speed-lock bolt has a different caming cut than a standard Mauser 98.

quote:

Originally posted by Masterifleman:
Have you determined the "age" of the bolt. The new Mark X's have a "speed-lock" bolt and sear (cocking piece), one is not compatable with the other. The speed-lock bolt has a different caming cut than a standard Mauser 98.

this would appear to be what i have...the issue now , is where can i get the correct cocking piece(speedlock ?)

mike

try
rrguns.us

quote:

rrguns.us

they appear to have the pc.....
will try calling next week.

thanks guys

mike in co

I have a Remington 798 (Interarms Mk X). Am I going to be able to add a Timney Featherwight Deluxe Trigger without altering the bolt or cocking piece?

quote:

Originally posted by pevtsovy:
I have a Remington 798 (Interarms Mk X). Am I going to be able to add a Timney Featherwight Deluxe Trigger without altering the bolt or cocking piece?

i think you should have no issue...my (commercial) cocking pc was missing and i replaced with a military...that would appear to be my issue.

mike in co

Interesting that your "Intermediate" length M48A bolt fit your "Standard" length Mk X action.

quote:

Originally posted by z1r:
Interesting that your "Intermediate" length M48A bolt fit your "Standard" length Mk X action.

well a parker hale 308 bolt and a preduce 44...NOT A 48A....my bad

mike in co

ok we determined i need a commercial cocking peice..which was eventually obtained frim the source listed.
but when it got here...guess what ?...it did not fit...cause i had a mil firing pin. so off to the lathe and mod the mil firing pin to close to a commercial/generic fits all cocking pcs.
so now its all assembled....but it still does not cock on bolt lift, only on open withdraw, and close.
and the safety does not engage....cause the commercial does not move back as far as a mil cocking pc. i can notch the commercial pc to match the low scope safety..or ?

why is sit still not cock on lift ?

it functions ..but it does nto seem correct at all.

( maybe it needs to go to the school of trades as a project )
mike

quote:

Originally posted by ar10ar15man:

( maybe it needs to go to the school of trades as a project )
mike

You are kidding, right?

i work on ar's mainly. have worked on a few bolt guns. i do not consider myself a gunsmith, but have good mecahnical abilities. can weld and run a lathe.
i just don't have enough experience with this design to know whats going on.

is the school bad ?
this gun needs metal refinish, stock refinish, a proper bedding( i can do that)...and resolve this last issue with the bolt.
mike in co

ok, so i'm sitting here playing with this rifle...and low and behold!!!!
its cocking on close without withdrawing the bolt.
who knows...maybe a burr somewhere....

so now to fit the safety to the cocking pc and go from there.

mike in co