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ebony stock end
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Does anyone have any information on installing ebony on the muzzle end of a stock? Any info would be appreciated.
Gravel :
 
Posts: 21 | Location: Pennsylvania | Registered: 05 June 2002Reply With Quote
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i assume you want a forend tip. a famous stocker named kennedy once said that he saw no use cutting off a piece of wood to put on another piece of wood. be that as it may it can make things look "right." there are some decisions to be made.
1. most forends are about 10 inches from the front of the receiver to the end of the forend. most tips on the barrel side are between 2 to 2.5inches.
2. cut your stock at the length you decide minus the tip length. you choose 90 or 45 degrees.cut the block of wood at the same angle. dress both surfaces flat and smooth.
3. now make a simple woodworkers dual dowel joint with a good epoxy. i use acra-glass after degreasing both surfaces with acetone.
4. use a pipe clamp and let the epoxy cure about a week before you start working with the stock. shape the tip and inlet it for the barrel. finish it with whatever potion you choose to match the rest of the stock.
hope this helps you out.
max
 
Posts: 128 | Location: southeastern pa | Registered: 23 July 2003Reply With Quote
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Gravel,
i've done it POST stock shaping, and since I've now got the means, will never do it that way again.

max gave you a pretty good overview... he just failed to mention that it's several hours to do that work!!

As I get more and more into tranditional styles, the ebony 90 degree, looks better to me
 
Posts: 40111 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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first I'd caution to wear some face mask.....ebony dust is not pleasant when inhaled.

Cut the forend of the stock and the ebony as desired to fit together.

Wipe the ends to be joined with a cloth soaked in a nonpetroleum solvent to remove natural wood oils from the area to be attached. (MEK works)

use enough Brownell's glass bedding material (stained black) as a glue and apply generously. Clamping is not necessary except that there shouldn't be large areas filled with the epoxy.

(other epoxies will also work but the ones with the 24 hour cure time seem best for me and the Brownell's come with a black stain)

Allow to set AND cure for a minimum of 24 hours at 70 degrees..........and sand flush and shape as desired.

 
Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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gravel

If you already have the ebony block, go for it. If not you might want to look at African Black Wood. It looks and finishes just like ebony, is cheaper, and doesn't have as much oil in it. If you have a store nearby that sells exotic wood you can generally go through their stock and find a piece that has some color streaks through it which really finish up nice.

Ray
 
Posts: 1560 | Location: Arizona Mountains | Registered: 11 October 2004Reply With Quote
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he didn't ask how long it would take , just what is involved. i agree with you! it is better to install it pre shaping and finishing than after.
 
Posts: 128 | Location: southeastern pa | Registered: 23 July 2003Reply With Quote
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I inlet the barreled action in the stock without the tip attached. I then attach the tip (to the inletted stock blank that is still square) by screwing a couple of sheetroack screws into the end of the stock. I then drill 2 holes in the ebony to match the screw locations and cut the heads off oc the screws. I mix a little ebony sawdust in original acraglas and stick it all together. I use surgical tubing to hold the tip on the stock. I wrap the tubing through the action hole in the stock, making 10 or so wraps goinr from the front of the ebony tip through the top of the action hole, back under the blank and around the tip, etc. I let this sit for 24 hours and then inlet th ebarrel channel in the ebony. After all inletting is done, I then start shaping the blank. May not be the easiest way or best way (likely isn't), but it works for me so I will keep doing it that way
 
Posts: 2509 | Location: Kisatchie National Forest, LA | Registered: 20 October 2004Reply With Quote
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To attach a FE tip to a finished stock is tough and you should figure on completely refinishing the stock as the forend should be sanded to the wood....

I cut the stock and level the cut, then level the cut on the facing ebony block..I then use inletting black to inlet a perfect flush fit, clean with any commercial cleaner to get the oil out of the wood. drill two holes for dowells, I use bolet with the head cut off...Glass together and clamp..I have a 6 ft. clamp on a 3/4" pipe...Give it a few days to cure and then sand with a block to flush...

Sounds easy, but it seems to strain some people to the point of suicide or self manipulation!

Actually its purely decorative and has no purpose, something I don't like on a gun, all things on a rifle should serve a functional purpose IMO....
 
Posts: 42230 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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