Gents,

I got my Tikka in used but excellent condition, the ex-owner tightened the screw so much that I never disassembled the gun, today I brought the gun to my smith and easily he unscrewed the both screw, back home I went.

Afterwards, I disassembled the Tikka and the Tikka has a compound recoil lug system. I am not saying it is not good : if there was no Tikka and I turn out to be manufacturing rifles for a living, I would probably be making rifles like Tikka, the simplicity and quality of it RULES.

Back to story, I place the lug piece alone in the stock---there's room for movement. I placed the barrelled action without the lug piece into the stock---there's room for movement. I placed the barrelled action with the lug piece into the stock---there's room for movement. So I put the gun back together without too much torque, I found I can push the action/barrel assembly side to side and it will "park" in different places. Now I understand why the ex-user want the screws tight. It also explains why the spread in the group is mostly horizontal.

Clearly this rifle can use some bedding, but since the rifle have a 2-stage recoil lug system is there an established sequence or system when bedding this rifle?

Thanks

[ 06-08-2003, 07:56: Message edited by: Pyrotek ]

Hi Pyro - Don't have an answer, just received a new Whitetail Hunter myself. Could hardly break the rear action screw loose when I adjusted the trigger. Unusual lug setup to be sure. I noticed some movement when I reeassembled, also. I'm very happy with the accuracy, though (it's in 223 Rem). BTW, you can probably expect quite a wait on this question. I tried to find out the barrel thread specs on the Tikka on this board some time ago, to no avail.

I have a mod 55 action 22-250 Tikka. Same type of recoil lug and same movement that you have noticed. I just left out the blued piece of channel steel and glass bedded the action as normal (without pillars). Didn't quite get it right because there is movement when I tighten/loosen the stock screws but I'll pillar bed it anyway. Despite tension in action it is OK for 5/8" for 5 shots at 100 always. So the little metal bit is not a crucial item if glass bedding.

Pyrotech
I just rebarreled a Tika M695 for a customer and he requested the rifle be glass bedded. I simply degreasesed the action and recoil lug thoroughly. I then cemented the recoil lug to the receiver with Accra-glass. After it had set up for 24 hours I painted the whole thing with release and bedded it normally in the stock with Accra-glass Gel. Presto, no more moving around. Hope this helps.

I sent a PM to Gimpy but for anyone else who is looking for Barrel threads for Tika. What I found on the M695 was 1.000 Major Diameter. 16 tpi V type 60 degree. Length of threaded shank 1.000" with a .125" thread relief at the shoulder

CGS - sent you an e-mail. Thanks a lot for the help.

My gunsmith lightly superglues the block to the action and coats the action but not the block with release agent. Once the release agent has set the action is pulled, the block is now firmly glasssed providing a secure bed for the action which is not so prone to being shaved when the action is pulled/replaced. Works very well.

I put a paper shim at the front of the lug on the receiver after applying release agent. Masking tape works fine too. The stock insert is then degreased and stuck on the lug. The rifle is bedded as normal and when pulled apart, the insert stays in the stock and contacts the lug only at the rear. Regards, Bill.

1894 - I like the idea of securing the insert in the stock, except that one might decide to restock and could have a problem getting the insert out without tearing up the old stock.

Bill, in your method, the insert still can be removed from the stock, right?

[ 06-12-2003, 20:25: Message edited by: Gimpy ]