This job isn't as good as the picture shows, but it's been in daily use since 1989 and has been oiled maybe three times.
You can almost see the texture of it.


This 500 Jeffery quarter rib shows way too much "bite". The barrel and action is pitted to the point of distraction, but the color is good.


Many times small parts don't blue well. This grip cap was evidently done in a BIG hurry. The sling swivels are worse. ($8K top name rifle)

[ 02-28-2003, 10:58: Message edited by: JBelk ]

Mr. Belk, I'm too ignorant to appreciate what's being shown - care to elaborate?

Thanks for your patience with us ill-informed people.

Mr. Belk: Regarding rust blue finishes, I have noticed lots of varieties, some very course almost like a bead blast finish, others very fine and smooth (like the old Brownings). What are the most important factors that determine the finished result? Is it the polish, how long the work is allowed to oxidize, the type of oxidizing agent used, the method of carding, etc.?

fla3006, a lot of the difference you will see will be due to the solution that is used. There are a lot of different mixtures. I used to use a mixture of Pilkingtons and one from Brownells in a 50/50 mix. I liked that until I tried Gun goddess. They all seem to give a slightly different texture and color. The water you boil them in can influence the outcome unless it is distilled water. I have a still so I don't have to buy it by the gallon at the store.

When I start out I let the first coat go for about 6 to 8 hours, and check to make sure there is a good coat of rust, the red stuff. It is then boiled in water and then carded off. Carding is down with a fine stainless wire wheel turning slowly. If you have gold inlays in the metal those areas need to be hand carded with steel wool (degreased) and under water to stop the gold from smearing onto the surrounding area. The next coat is shorter in duration, more like 3 to 4 hours and then 3 hours each until it is done. I don't like letting them sit when I get started so it usually ends up with some long weekends with lots of naps.

I use a cabinet for my rust bluing and have an electonic humidifier in it and a small fan/heater. I have a thermometer and the heater is set for 92 +/-. I have put up to 12 coats, grrrrrr - Ruger #1. I put a minumum of 6 on. When the texture starts to take shape it is just like opening a present. These may be labor intensive but it is a labor of love.

[ 03-01-2003, 01:54: Message edited by: Customstox ]

Wismon---

This is a companion thread to the long and sometimes contentious, but always interesting,

"So, in lieu of stainless......"

thread on this forum.

A few more images of rust bluing.

This one was done with Gun Goddess solution.


this one is also done with GG. Notice the finger cot on the checkered bolt knob. Look at a wood rasp and a chekered bolt knob and you will figure out why your other guns get marred in the safe. These things are available at an office supply store for 25 cents.


this one was done with the mixture I spoke of. It has had 100's of hours of use in The Frank Church wilderness area in Idaho.



This also was done with my 50/50 solution. The gold here had to be done under water.



This is a pre 64 that was done with GG and it shows the flat nature of that process. The rings were a black oxide coating and were not done by me. They will be rust blued in the future.

Hey Chic,

Every time rust-blueing comes up you mention Gun Goddess. Will you give me the contact information so I can get some and give it a try? So far the only solution I have tried is the Swiss black formula( C.13 & C.20 ) from Angier's book. Both give a nice satin finish but are a little on the aggressive side as formulated by Angier. When I asked Pete Mazur about this at the ACGG show he concurred , but also said it it one of the best solutions to start the process on steels that don't react as well to other solutions.

[ 03-01-2003, 03:31: Message edited by: DavidReed ]

Glad to David. I don't have a phone number but it is Jim Bair, Half Moon Rifle Shop, 480 Halfmoon Road, Columbia Falls, MT 59912. He also makes some very fine barrels.

I am pretty much sold on this solution. I probably have 12 bottles of it so I am set for a long time. I have basically quit looking elsewhere.

Thanks Chic.

I plan on slow rusting one or more VZ24s in about a year. I have slow rusted a Marlin Guide gun, its turned out very nice looking, tho I did not know about hard oil at the time. I will be using that in the future.

I have a question concerning the aproch, on Mausers. Do you do the finishing with the action barreled? Either way, do you put solution into the action, up into the reciever lugs and C-ring? If so, I guess you must hand card up into these areas.

Thank you,
Kristofer

KB Guns---

I seperate everything as much as possible. Otherwise you get a faded area around the joint.

I paint the insides of the action, bore and whatever I dont want blued with lacquer or a varnish stock finish. After blueing I remove it with paint remover, acetone and elbow grease.

Chic, great info. How much to rust blue a brand new bolt action, just the action?

Whitehurst, I charge $175 for a barreled action with no appreciable clean up to do. It doesn't save me much time but if it can wait until I am doing some others, I would do it for $100. I do have 2 I am doing in March, which is rapidly approaching (tomorrow). I will be doing them later in the month.

[ 03-01-2003, 07:35: Message edited by: Customstox ]

JBelk & Chic
Do ya�ll always start with baby but smooth metal or do you bead blast first?
Do ya�ll always seal the rust blue with one of the wax/oil sealers?
Also, Mr.Belk, it may be the pic (or my poor eye sight) but the grip cap looks like it was color cased and was not sealed and rubbed off.
Any way beautiful work gentleman.

Blue tick, I start with a 320 grit surface. I do not bead blast. The acid will provide the matte finish. I use an oil on the finished surface.

[ 03-02-2003, 11:19: Message edited by: Customstox ]

Chic-

How long do you boil after each treatment?

I was in David Christman's shop for a while when he was rust bluing the 7x57 he had at the ACGG show this year, and it didn't seem that he boiled for very long (This was close to the end of the process).

Is there a "schedule" for boiling, or is it learned from past mistakes?

Thanks, Bob

Bob, I boil for about 10 minutes on a rolling boil. It doesn't take long, you can see the color change. My old system was an accident waiting to happen, propane with a burner built out of a piece of pipe. Lots of excess propane and fumes, closed space, no ventilation. Let me check my pulse ........ nothing. LOL

Bluetick---

That grip cap was rustblued, but badly. It does have a poorly done color cased look about it but mostly it's just ugly. The sling swivels are worse.

I'll be rust blueing two other guns starting this week and will re-do the grip cap and swivels on this one at the same time.

I included a picture just to show what happens when you don't do it right.

Is the "bite" of the solution a function of the ambient temperature, humidity, or just the acid concentration???

I like a fine etching action on the steel. I am using Plinktons and/or Mark Lee #3. The Plinktons used to have bite but I think condensation collected in the bottle and diluted it... The Mark Lee #3 gives great even color not much etch. Would you suggest a long first coat of Plinkton's followed by Mark Lee #3? Is this the blend you aluded to? I have my Springfield Express Rifle ready to rust...

I have hydrochloric acid and have read references indicating an acid bath for a frost like appearance on the metal- "an excellent start" to a fine blue job. Can anyone give me some finer points before I trash some perfectly polished parts???

Currently, I'm hand polishing to 320 then oily wire wheeling to blend/texture. Ok results, but I'd like better- especially on harder steels...

Any more tips or advice greatly appreciated...

DeeBee---

The wire wheel is probably giving you trouble with rust blue but is may favorite finish for hot dipped parts.

Polish to a 320 finish and go from there. You'll get more "bite" because the part is softer.......the wire wheel works by workhardening the surface and that alters results.

I use nitric acid to boost the etching action. Temperature, humidity and the acid content all makes a difference. I warm the parts before every coat but not to the point of sizzle.