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Torque Specs for Remington Model 7SS 308
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Need a little help here guys.

I had a Remington Model 7 SS in 308 Win for 6 years and sold it. Now I'm getting it back but the guy that owned it for awhile took it out of the stock retorqued it by feel.

I would like to get this rifle back the way it is supposed to be because it was an excellent shooter for a thin barreled gun.

What torque sequence and ft/lbs or inch/lbs should I torque it to?

TIA,
$bob$
 
Posts: 2494 | Location: NW Florida Piney Woods | Registered: 28 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Bob,

At the risk of starting another: "No, No, my way is better!" thread on here...I'll tell you what I do on my 700's, which are all pillar bedded and two of them are housed in McMillan fiberglass stocks with very thick DD Ross trigger guards.

I tighten the screws down finger tight then start progressively tightening them alternating back and forth between the front and rear screws so they start coming up together and not causing a bind in any way.

I do this allot, so I have a pretty good "feel" when I am starting to get close to the torque I want. I fully torque the front screw first (that's the way I was taught by a Marine Armorer) and then fully torque the rear screw down. That sequence seems to "seat" the front receiver portion better than doing the rear screw first.

The actual amount of torque (in inch/pounds) is not as important as having them both torqued to the same amount and brought up together in alternating sequence so there is no binding. I torque mine to 65 inch/pounds...but I am sure that a lesser amount would work as well as long as they are both the same and there is no binding.

I know that some people like to use lesser amounts for wooden stocks...and 65 inch/pounds would probably be a bit much if the rifle is not pillar bedded.

It doesn't sound like all that much force, and it doesn't even feel like much when you do it...but that's allot of torque on a � inch screw and allot of clamping force on the stock and/or pillars that the receiver and trigger guard are trying to "crush" between them as they are tightened down.

"Consistency" is what you are striving for if you want the most out of your rifle... and I have my torque wrenches checked and calibrated regularly so I know that they are giving me what they say.

Good luck,

Rick
 
Posts: 494 | Location: Valencia, CA | Registered: 22 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Rick,

Thanks... This rifle has a pencil thin barrel and a "whisp" of a stock with a "pad" up front... I'm hoping someone will have actual experience with what torque to use based on experimentation.

Your information sounds more like what I use on my two PSS rifles but for all I know it's the same.

$bob$
 
Posts: 2494 | Location: NW Florida Piney Woods | Registered: 28 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Remington says 40 in/lbs, front and rear for either wood or plastic.
 
Posts: 1261 | Location: Placerville, CA, US of A | Registered: 07 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Are they referring to the Model 7SS when they say that?

$bob$
 
Posts: 2494 | Location: NW Florida Piney Woods | Registered: 28 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Dear LD,

On my Mod 7 in 6.5 SAUM I do the front to 53 in/lbs and the rear to 50 in/lbs. Shoots like a house afire. Good luck with your 7.

Aloha, Mark[in Or]
 
Posts: 978 | Location: S Oregon | Registered: 06 March 2004Reply With Quote
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No matter what amount of final torque you decide on the procedure is the same for the sequence of tightening and assuring that they are brought up evenly without creating any binding or stress.

Despite all the hype out there, as I originally said...the actual amount of torque is not as important as making sure it is evenly applied to both front and rear screws.

I have seen guys get carried away and crank the front guard screw so hard on non-pillar bedded rifles that it pinned the bolt.

The other thing you have to watch out for is the mag box getting cockeyed while you are tightening things down. I recently had all my 700 mag boxes welded to the receivers so I don't have to worry about that one anymore.

Rick
 
Posts: 494 | Location: Valencia, CA | Registered: 22 May 2004Reply With Quote
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LDHunter,

Here is what Remington told me after I asked a similiar question:

Proper torque for the Model 7 action screws?


Discussion Thread
---------------------------------------------------------------
Response (Billy) - 07/20/2004 08:10 AM
Dear Mr. Johnson,

Thank you for contacting Remington Arms. You need to tighten the action screws to 25 inch lbs or just hand tight. It doesn't matter which screw you tighten first, but you should tighten the same one first every time you have them loose (just consistency). If you have any other questions, do not hesitate to contact us again. Have a great day!

Customer (bluecollar) - 07/18/2004 09:54 PM
I have a Model 7 AWR in 7 SAUM and I don't know what torque to install the action screws to. Does it matter which is torqued first? Please let me know what they should be set at. The AWR has a synthetic stocks

Thanks in advance,
 
Posts: 40 | Registered: 19 December 2002Reply With Quote
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